Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

[jedd]

Lamont have you replaced yours yet? Mine feel fine at 10500 miles when will this be an issue in your opinion?

[Lamonster]

Lamont have you replaced yours yet? Mine feel fine at 10500 miles when will this be an issue in your opinion?

I had one spin in the hub at 36,000 miles. The others seem to be fine.

[jedd]

Cool thanks I'll just keep an eye on em'
Thanks, Jim

[SpyderGirl]

Just got a call from the dealer telling me that they have the "outer" bearing, but not the other two and that they are backordered until the 26th. He said that the bearings look good and we gave him the okay to replace the "outer" bearing. He tells me it's $22 for this part that they do have.

Do you think I'm running a risk of bearing failure if I let the other other two go until after my 6000 mile trip? I have 15K miles now.

Any information would be helpful.

[capt.jim]

The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.

[Firefly]

The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.

That's way too much for that bearing--- if we're talking about the same one -- here are the OEM bearings and prices:


The Wheel:

Product Number: 293350055
Description: BALL BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed Order

Unit Price: $7.49

The Hub:

Product Number: 293350065
Description: *BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed

Unit Price: $18.49

[gazey]

Has anyone got the dimensions for the larger pulley bearing.
I am fitting a new rear tyre next week and I will change the bearings at the same time. Is the bearing number 5106

Thanks

[j45p3r]

The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.

All I'll say is that I know someone who replaced the front wheel bearing on his GMC pickup 3 times in 6 months, they were all made by National (made in China). I realize it's apples to oranges, but just sayin'.

[capt.jim]

3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!

[boborgera]

3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!

Yep over tightening. Been there once. live and learn.

[j45p3r]

3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!

These were sealed hub units that can't be over tightened. He used the same brand because the parts store was replacing them under warranty. He eventually switched to a Timkin unit that hasn't been a problem.

[krb1945]

GL1500 rear wheel bearing set handy. They might be the same... don't have any on the bench or cabinet but if memory is working today... it seems one of the rears was a wide big bearing and the other was a smaller one. I just dumped my junk bucket and the old ones went to scrap metal. Boy I wish I had measured it. The last time I bought one of them it was about 50 bucks and they were good quality Japanese bearings... made in Japan. /Ken

[Freddy]

Does anybody know if non-genuine seals are available or have the dimensions of them or p/n? Thanks.

[GaryTheBadger]

Has it been determined if aftermarket rear wheel bearings are better than OEM? If so, is there a current list of the recommended aftermarket replacement parts for a complete rear wheel bearing R&R?

Should all the seals and o-rings be replaced at the same time as well? Any special tools required for bearing or seal pulling (as the service manual states)?

Anything else we need to know?

Time estimate start-to-finish for someone mechanically saavy?

This is all for a 2008 GS.

[Freddy]

Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.

Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size

Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm

The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)

Edit: and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.

[GaryTheBadger]

Thanks Freddy...that's exactly what I was looking for!

[GaryTheBadger]

Follow-up question: Where you call for three O-rings 15IDx3mm, I can only find two of them in the BRP on-line parts catalog (two of that type, one of the other type, three total O-rings) What am I missing?

[Freddy]

Follow-up question: Where you call for three O-rings 15IDx3mm, I can only find two of them in the BRP on-line parts catalog (two of that type, one of the other type, three total O-rings) What am I missing?

Sorry, I don't recall - maybe it's just 2 and I mistakenly typed 3 - you'll see when you dismantle. By the way, I used Loctite 680 and primer when installing the large pulley bearing as there is about 0.5mm movement against the circlip. I'm pretty sure that the clicking noise I heard was the bearing moving within that space as it's a slip fit in the pulley. Others have described the noise elsewhere here.

[Spyder Monkey]

Resurrecting an old thread...
Spyder needs a new rear tire and it has 23K miles. I also need an oil change and I was going to order the filter, crush washer, and whatever bearings I need from our new sponsor, Honda East Toledo.

Should I go ahead and do the wheel bearings at 24K? How much money roughly for the part(s)? What parts would I need to order?

Thanks in advance,
David

[Crisis]

Sure would be nice to have some step by step pics or video on how to do this.
Thanks

[ulflyer]

I should have read the manual and had mine done at time the rear tire was installed but didn't, so my question is; does these bearings give some "warning" noise, or other indication, before they fail entirely? Its not something I could do and its gonna be a long time before another rear tire is needed. I have nearly 17K on the RT, and 6K on the tire.

[johnwinslow]

Resurrecting an old thread...
Spyder needs a new rear tire and it has 23K miles. I also need an oil change and I was going to order the filter, crush washer, and whatever bearings I need from our new sponsor, Honda East Toledo.

Should I go ahead and do the wheel bearings at 24K? How much money roughly for the part(s)? What parts would I need to order?

Thanks in advance,
David

i just bought them for a 2011 rt-s rear wheel bearings, seals and oring. for $69.00. when i took the rear wheel off icould spin the sproket bearing, but could not spin the wheel bearings so i took it to the dealer and he replaced them under warrentee. 11,500 miles

[ulflyer]

I've read this whole thread which started way back, but didn't see any ref to U.S. made bearings. Has anyone come up with anything they can share? I'd like to get a full set, with seals, for sprocket and wheel and have them on hand.

[bill pitman]

I've read this whole thread which started way back, but didn't see any ref to U.S. made bearings. Has anyone come up with anything they can share? I'd like to get a full set, with seals, for sprocket and wheel and have them on hand.

Sprocket bearing(1,wide)- KYK 5006-2RS, made in Japan
Hub bearings(2)- SKF Explorer-6205-2RSH/C3, made in USA
Joint Torique- O-ring(large), BRP #293300124, made in China
Joint Torique- O-ring(small), BRP #293300131, made in China
Seals(2)- BRP #293200094, made in Taiwan

bill pitman

[Firefly]

I should have read the manual and had mine done at time the rear tire was installed but didn't, so my question is; does these bearings give some "warning" noise, or other indication, before they fail entirely? Its not something I could do and its gonna be a long time before another rear tire is needed. I have nearly 17K on the RT, and 6K on the tire.

Hopefully since your Spyder should be running the lower belt tension , you won't have any troubles. Many times you can hear bearing noise when they go bad. I could hear mine go bad once and things just didn't 'feel' right. The other time I had the sprocket bearing spinning -- which you could hear. Was a bit hard to hear over my exhaust, but one of my HD buddies noticed the noise from behind. Pulling in clutch, killing the engine and coasting I could hear it too. Had to peen things up to get a new bearing to seat well again.

Your dealer dropped the ball by not replacing them at 17,000 miles.