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  1. #1
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    Default taking airbox off on RS

    I have a 2015 rs I need to take airbox to change spark plugs and etc.
    but that screw on pic is on the top of the airbox underneath the frame with very little room.
    anyone took those off before?
    I do have a low profile rachet but when you add the height of adapter and socket, I don't think there is enough room.
    thank you in advance.
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  2. #2
    Active Member Nobodyjj's Avatar
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    Ratcheting box end wrench.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobodyjj View Post
    Ratcheting box end wrench.
    There is no room for any wrench. It’s seating in a crevice.
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  4. #4
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    The air box on my 2012 RS is 2 pieces. An upper piece and a lower Piece. The two are held together by some metal spring clips.....5-6 in total I think. Remove the clips and the top portion slides out (its a bit of work to slide it out). Then you can access some screws that holds the bottom portion down. Remove some hoses and the bottom portion slightly lifts and slides out.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez View Post
    The air box on my 2012 RS is 2 pieces. An upper piece and a lower Piece. The two are held together by some metal spring clips.....5-6 in total I think. Remove the clips and the top portion slides out (its a bit of work to slide it out). Then you can access some screws that holds the bottom portion down. Remove some hoses and the bottom portion slightly lifts and slides out.
    yea that's what I was expecting too but air box have changed and now its secured by screws and clips.
    I don't even know why they bother to put clips anyway.
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  6. #6
    Member Faultline's Avatar
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    You're showing a flat blade screwdriver bit in the first picture. Not sure why.
    Use a very short socket and a 1/4" breaker bar. Much lower profile.
    2015 STS SE5 * Bajaron sway bar and end links * M2 Shocks
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faultline View Post
    You're showing a flat blade screwdriver bit in the first picture. Not sure why.
    Use a very short socket and a 1/4" breaker bar. Much lower profile.
    I was trying to show the size of low profile rachet.
    I will have to go out find a right size socket and see if I can slide underneath it.
    I was hoping someone who have taken the newer airbox off would chime in.
    I need to know what size socket I would need or if that needs to come off to begin with.
    thank you.
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  8. #8
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    Are you talking about the 6 Torx screws you have to take out in the bottom half, connected to the inectors? I've done this job a few times it is NOT easy to get that stupid thing out. First time I used a set of torx wrenches that fold up, if you know what I'm talking about. Took forever at 1/2 turn over and over. Then I found a solution (for me) was: a short 3/8" socket wrench maybe 6" long, with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, then a socket type Torx bit. (1/4" socket to Torx). Fit perfectly. Also - go on Amazon and search for "T30 Torx bit", you will find 2" bits with the hex shaft, Using a 1/4" socket wrench with a 1/4" socket for the bit, this works well also. I bought T30's in 2" and 3", they came in sets of 6. One bit each I ground the edges down slightly so they would work well at an angle, similar to the ball-end wrenches you can get.

    1/4" Torx:
    https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CDTS...s%2C332&sr=8-4

    2" T30:
    https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Change...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

    Once you find a combo that fits - I stopped by Harbor freight and picked up a cheapo 6" ratchet and keep the pieces put together in a sandwich baggie and marked it. That's one combo of tools you wanna keep safe and together!

  9. #9
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    I was talking about hex head bolt holding the top part of the airbox.
    older ones came off with just the clips undone but newer ones have bolts holding it down.




    Quote Originally Posted by stevencovert View Post
    Are you talking about the 6 Torx screws you have to take out in the bottom half, connected to the inectors? I've done this job a few times it is NOT easy to get that stupid thing out. First time I used a set of torx wrenches that fold up, if you know what I'm talking about. Took forever at 1/2 turn over and over. Then I found a solution (for me) was: a short 3/8" socket wrench maybe 6" long, with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, then a socket type Torx bit. (1/4" socket to Torx). Fit perfectly. Also - go on Amazon and search for "T30 Torx bit", you will find 2" bits with the hex shaft, Using a 1/4" socket wrench with a 1/4" socket for the bit, this works well also. I bought T30's in 2" and 3", they came in sets of 6. One bit each I ground the edges down slightly so they would work well at an angle, similar to the ball-end wrenches you can get.

    1/4" Torx:
    https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CDTS...s%2C332&sr=8-4

    2" T30:
    https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Change...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

    Once you find a combo that fits - I stopped by Harbor freight and picked up a cheapo 6" ratchet and keep the pieces put together in a sandwich baggie and marked it. That's one combo of tools you wanna keep safe and together!
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    6 states down 42 states to go

  10. #10
    SpyderLovers Sponsor merlot's Avatar
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    as Faultline says,it looks like you need a 1/4in drive socket set

    that bolt will take 10mm or 8mm socket

    sorry cant be more help

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    still a WIP but bike is now running and registered....swapped out 5 modules mostly sourced from Canadian wrecker

  11. #11
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    thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by merlot View Post
    as Faultline says,it looks like you need a 1/4in drive socket set

    that bolt will take 10mm or 8mm socket

    sorry cant be more help

    russ
    6 states down 42 states to go

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