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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  2. #27
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    I don't ride it around to make it flow better. I ride it around to get all the particles that have settled out in various places inside the engine and transmission stirred up into the oil so that more of them will come out when the oil is drained.
    … so your engine … KNOWS … the Spyder has / is been actually moved on a road surface …???? …. well yours is waaaaaaaaay smarter than mine ….. Mike

  3. #28
    Active Member HankD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    … so your engine … KNOWS … the Spyder has / is been actually moved on a road surface …???? …. well yours is waaaaaaaaay smarter than mine ….. Mike
    I also drove mine around prior to me doing the oil change rather than just letting it idle to warm up. Folks told me that the oil in the engine crankcase doesn't know the difference, but it gets the "stuff" in the transmission side suspended so it will flow out easier. Plus, it was a nice day! Carry on....

  4. #29
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Gwolf, I'm with you and will add that I plan my oil changes to be at the end of a long day ride. I pull 'er into the garage and pull the plugs. Only downside of this method is, the oil is damn hot if it hits your hand. Don't ask.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  5. #30
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Well it seems from some comments that the Rear wheel somehow moves the oil through the engine …..AMAZING …. what you can learn on this site

  6. #31
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    … so your engine … KNOWS … the Spyder has / is been actually moved on a road surface …???? …. well yours is waaaaaaaaay smarter than mine ….. Mike
    My engine don't know anything, but I know if the gears in the transmission are spinning or if it is just sitting there idling. I also know it will stir up more of the particles if it is run through the gears than it will if it just idles a while. The oil is not just in the engine. It also circulates through the transmission.

    Believe whatever you want to. I will do it my way. You can do it any way you like.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  7. #32
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Differences are what makes horse races.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  8. #33
    Active Member iridenow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    Anywhere from $200-$300 is about where all the dealers are. Remember they do labor by the "book time" and parts are full retail. Hopefully it is all done by a Spyder certified tech.. Car oil change for $19.99? Done by a kid right off the street. Probably still reading comic books. Tom
    Yep....and done in 10 minutes at the Quickie Lube down the street.
    Fred is a 2010 RT SM5 - Sold.

    I am not a mechanic. When I have a tool in my hand, 911 needs to be on Standby.


  9. #34
    Active Member HankD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Well it seems from some comments that the Rear wheel somehow moves the oil through the engine …..AMAZING …. what you can learn on this site
    I don't see anyone saying that. I see Gwolf, me, and others saying that actually riding the Spyder spins the transmission gears, which contain the same oil that you change when you do an oil change. Spinning the transmission helps to temporarily suspend particles so that they can more easily be removed during the oil change, while at the same time warming the oil for easier flow.

    If we were talking about a typical car, where the transmission fluid is a totally separate system than the engine oil, that would be different.

    Anyhow....flame on

  10. #35
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Idling in neutral would also spin the transmission gears. However running up the gears over the road would cause a heck of a lot more stirring up of anything that might be settled.
    2019 RT Limited , Phoenix Orange

  11. #36
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Idling in neutral spins only the input shaft. Without any of the gear pinions engaged the output shaft does not spin.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  12. #37
    Very Active Member EdMat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    Idling in neutral spins only the input shaft. Without any of the gear pinions engaged the output shaft does not spin.
    Yep, kind of what I was referring to, guess I could have made the point clearer.
    2019 RT Limited , Phoenix Orange

  13. #38
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Let's agree to dis-agree ……… Debris , particulate matter etc. is going to be heavier than the oil it is in ….. and if that is the case, when the oil isn't moving that stuff will sink to the bottom of whatever it is contained in ie. engine, transmission etc. the magnets on the drain plugs should be catching any steel / iron metal parts ( that's why they are there )….. and I don't stop my engine and immediately pull the drains, I might wait 15-20 minutes. … I've owned many, many various veh's in my 72 yrs. and never had an engine or transmission failure...… Thanks for all your opinions …. Mike

  14. #39
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Its not about the engine, its all about the gearbox and wet clutch...just so happens, the engine must be running to spin the gearbox and clutch.

    Circulated oil that has been run prior to draining, and yes it may sit a few minutes, will suspended, aluminum particles, and moisture or acids if present and do a better result removing them.

    Will you see immediate failure, have your engine blow up or see detrimental effects from draining cold oil. Very unlikely no, however it is simply not the best method to use.

  15. #40
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    I, too, am in the ride before oil change group. After 50'sh years, won't change now ...


    2022 RT Sea To Sky
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    2022 RT Seat To Sky , Mystery Blue

  16. #41
    Very Active Member Peacekeeper6's Avatar
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    I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.

    I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.

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  17. #42
    Active Member deer30084's Avatar
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    Shell Rotella T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs so it is safe for wet clutch. $23.00 gal at Walmart. K&N oil filter with all o rings from Bajaron $19.95 and he ships fast. Won't pay the $90.00 for the oil change kit at the dealer again and certainly won't have the dealer do my oil change. I believe "if you want something done right, do it yourself." Of course, you've got to know your limitations.
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raprider View Post
    I agree with you on the first and last parts of your statement, but...
    1 gallon of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is $23 at Amazon or WalMart...so figure about $35-40 for 6 quarts worth.
    Add about $15-20 for the oil filter, o-rings, etc. (edit: I see another thread where you posted some filters for about $5 +/-, so maybe your estimate isn't that far off!)
    A full kit with oil and filter and o-rings from Lamonster is $85-90, depending on 998 or 1330.

    As PMK stated above, maybe if you're stockpiling when a sale is available, you can shave a few bucks here and there.
    I do stockpile some if the price is right.
    Currently, I could change a 1330 for right at 28.00 . BajaRon o-ring kit from eBay at 12 shipped, an Outlaw filter for 4.50, and 6 quarts of Castrol Power 1 from an AutoZone sale at 2.00 per quart.
    The average Joe doesn't need to hoard oil, there are plenty of good deals every day if you look.
    Grainger has Mag1 @ 4.00 a quart available and free ship for pickup. The name doesn't do justice to what's inside. A really good, under the radar oil made by a major blender that does a bunch of private labels.
    WalMart recently had Quicksilver full synthetic on line at 37 for a 12 pack. That's the lubricant division of Mercury Marine: they got into powersports a while back. Made by Citgo, which BTW, is the folks that bring you Yamalube.
    And every late October, early November, AutoZone closes out all the slow sellers. The mentioned Castrol was there last fall. I did get a few of those.

  19. #44
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    Amsoil full synthetic, Amsoil filter, labor, $90.00. Done at a shop that works on a lot of Spyders.
    I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  20. #45
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6 View Post
    I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.

    I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.

    This is one of the big advantages of doing your own oil change. Getting the oil hot makes it flow much faster. Faster flow removes more contaminants and debris. These contaminants settle out and lay on the bottom after a relatively short time. Just idling your Spyder will not do the job. And the shop does not have the time to ride your Spyder before doing the oil change. They might not even start it up. It's just too time consuming. If the engine isn't run long enough to warm the oil, and if you don't ride your Spyder for a few miles first to agitate the oil with the gears in the transmission. You are leaving a high percentage of settled out particles just waiting to contaminate your brand new oil.

    As mentioned by others, the transmission and wet clutch also run in the same engine oil. The clutch has fibrous friction plates (like brake pads that work in oil) which run up against steel plates. And, just like brake pads and rotors, they lose a little bit of material every time you engage the clutch. Granted, it isn't that much. But it tends to settle out pretty quickly when the engine is shut down. A magnetic drain plug will catch much of the ferrous materials. But it isn't going to get any of the clutch fibers or any non-ferrous materials. You can get nearly all of this material out with a run and hot drain. You are leaving most of it behind with a cold service.

    It's not a matter of life and death, by any means. It's just the difference between doing it, and doing it right.

    This is why the pull through oil change stations for cars/trucks are such a good deal. You drive in with hot, circulated oil and you are removing nearly all of the built up junk that has accumulated since your last change. It really is a better way to go.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-24-2020 at 03:02 PM.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

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  21. #46
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. Tom
    For the Spyder. All that needs to go under is your head. The belly can stay somewhere else.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  22. #47
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.
    Apparently you are right. I will call the dealer and find out what (if?) filter he put in.

  23. #48
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    Apparently you are right. I will call the dealer and find out what (if?) filter he put in.
    Dealer used a HiFlow HF556. Same one BajaRon supplies.

  24. #49
    Customer Support LeftCoast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARtraveler View Post
    When I was in Alaska, $350 was the oil change price. Labor rate $130 per hour.
    Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....
    2015 Pearl White RTL
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  25. #50
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeftCoast View Post
    Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....
    Probably the longer distance one, you want to go for a nice ryde.....right??

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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