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My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. Tom
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL
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Gwolf, I'm with you and will add that I plan my oil changes to be at the end of a long day ride. I pull 'er into the garage and pull the plugs. Only downside of this method is, the oil is damn hot if it hits your hand. Don't ask.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
My engine don't know anything, but I know if the gears in the transmission are spinning or if it is just sitting there idling. I also know it will stir up more of the particles if it is run through the gears than it will if it just idles a while. The oil is not just in the engine. It also circulates through the transmission.
Believe whatever you want to. I will do it my way. You can do it any way you like.
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Differences are what makes horse races.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Originally Posted by Tango
Anywhere from $200-$300 is about where all the dealers are. Remember they do labor by the "book time" and parts are full retail. Hopefully it is all done by a Spyder certified tech.. Car oil change for $19.99? Done by a kid right off the street. Probably still reading comic books. Tom
Yep....and done in 10 minutes at the Quickie Lube down the street.
Fred is a 2010 RT SM5 - Sold.
I am not a mechanic. When I have a tool in my hand, 911 needs to be on Standby.
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Idling in neutral would also spin the transmission gears. However running up the gears over the road would cause a heck of a lot more stirring up of anything that might be settled.
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Idling in neutral spins only the input shaft. Without any of the gear pinions engaged the output shaft does not spin.
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Originally Posted by Gwolf
Idling in neutral spins only the input shaft. Without any of the gear pinions engaged the output shaft does not spin.
Yep, kind of what I was referring to, guess I could have made the point clearer.
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Its not about the engine, its all about the gearbox and wet clutch...just so happens, the engine must be running to spin the gearbox and clutch.
Circulated oil that has been run prior to draining, and yes it may sit a few minutes, will suspended, aluminum particles, and moisture or acids if present and do a better result removing them.
Will you see immediate failure, have your engine blow up or see detrimental effects from draining cold oil. Very unlikely no, however it is simply not the best method to use.
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I, too, am in the ride before oil change group. After 50'sh years, won't change now ...
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.
I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.
SIGNATURE PIC CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION
2016 Toyota Sienna SE - hers
2002 BMW 325i - his
1994 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 Sportside Z71 - whoevers vehicle is in the shop
2009 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Vivid Black) - his
2018 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited - hers
2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Pearl White) - hers (SOLD 02/29/20)
2011 Tao Tao 50 - whoevers bike is in the shop
2007 Reinell 186 FNS - the dog's
1995 Fleetwood Flair 27R - EVERYBODY'S !
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Shell Rotella T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs so it is safe for wet clutch. $23.00 gal at Walmart. K&N oil filter with all o rings from Bajaron $19.95 and he ships fast. Won't pay the $90.00 for the oil change kit at the dealer again and certainly won't have the dealer do my oil change. I believe "if you want something done right, do it yourself." Of course, you've got to know your limitations.
John F.
Tallahassee, FL
2015 Spyder F3 SE6, black
BRP Driver/passenger Footboards
BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest
Blue Ridge Windshield
MRA X-Creen Tour, clear, clamp-on
H4 LED Headlights
F3 LED Fog Light Kit, LED Amber Halo Ring Kit, LED Tail Lights, F3 Rear run/brake/turn LEDs
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2-up rear shock
Idler pulley kit
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Originally Posted by Raprider
I agree with you on the first and last parts of your statement, but...
1 gallon of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is $23 at Amazon or WalMart...so figure about $35-40 for 6 quarts worth.
Add about $15-20 for the oil filter, o-rings, etc. (edit: I see another thread where you posted some filters for about $5 +/-, so maybe your estimate isn't that far off!)
A full kit with oil and filter and o-rings from Lamonster is $85-90, depending on 998 or 1330.
As PMK stated above, maybe if you're stockpiling when a sale is available, you can shave a few bucks here and there.
I do stockpile some if the price is right.
Currently, I could change a 1330 for right at 28.00 . BajaRon o-ring kit from eBay at 12 shipped, an Outlaw filter for 4.50, and 6 quarts of Castrol Power 1 from an AutoZone sale at 2.00 per quart.
The average Joe doesn't need to hoard oil, there are plenty of good deals every day if you look.
Grainger has Mag1 @ 4.00 a quart available and free ship for pickup. The name doesn't do justice to what's inside. A really good, under the radar oil made by a major blender that does a bunch of private labels.
WalMart recently had Quicksilver full synthetic on line at 37 for a 12 pack. That's the lubricant division of Mercury Marine: they got into powersports a while back. Made by Citgo, which BTW, is the folks that bring you Yamalube.
And every late October, early November, AutoZone closes out all the slow sellers. The mentioned Castrol was there last fall. I did get a few of those.
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Originally Posted by Baron14y
Amsoil full synthetic, Amsoil filter, labor, $90.00. Done at a shop that works on a lot of Spyders.
I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6
I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.
I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.
This is one of the big advantages of doing your own oil change. Getting the oil hot makes it flow much faster. Faster flow removes more contaminants and debris. These contaminants settle out and lay on the bottom after a relatively short time. Just idling your Spyder will not do the job. And the shop does not have the time to ride your Spyder before doing the oil change. They might not even start it up. It's just too time consuming. If the engine isn't run long enough to warm the oil, and if you don't ride your Spyder for a few miles first to agitate the oil with the gears in the transmission. You are leaving a high percentage of settled out particles just waiting to contaminate your brand new oil.
As mentioned by others, the transmission and wet clutch also run in the same engine oil. The clutch has fibrous friction plates (like brake pads that work in oil) which run up against steel plates. And, just like brake pads and rotors, they lose a little bit of material every time you engage the clutch. Granted, it isn't that much. But it tends to settle out pretty quickly when the engine is shut down. A magnetic drain plug will catch much of the ferrous materials. But it isn't going to get any of the clutch fibers or any non-ferrous materials. You can get nearly all of this material out with a run and hot drain. You are leaving most of it behind with a cold service.
It's not a matter of life and death, by any means. It's just the difference between doing it, and doing it right.
This is why the pull through oil change stations for cars/trucks are such a good deal. You drive in with hot, circulated oil and you are removing nearly all of the built up junk that has accumulated since your last change. It really is a better way to go.
Last edited by BajaRon; 02-24-2020 at 03:02 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by Tango
My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. Tom
For the Spyder. All that needs to go under is your head. The belly can stay somewhere else.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.
Apparently you are right. I will call the dealer and find out what (if?) filter he put in.
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Originally Posted by ARtraveler
When I was in Alaska, $350 was the oil change price. Labor rate $130 per hour.
Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....
2015 Pearl White RTL
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Originally Posted by LeftCoast
Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....
Probably the longer distance one, you want to go for a nice ryde.....right??
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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