Exhaust wrap

[aka1004]

i did like it when it first wrapped but it does makes sense that wrap is retaining heat and makes overall temp higher and i am assuming there is more air going thru the engine compartment than i thought there was once spyder starts moving. i will take little more heat on my legs than more heat on engine itself so wrapping will be unwrapped.

[BajaRon]

i am guessing because wrap is retaining heat it can cause engine to run hotter and cause premature gasket failure? exhaust and or head.

i was hesitant take them off when one party recommended to take them off but when both recommend spyder is better off without the wrap, i will listen...

I would like them to explain their reasoning a little better.

Your exhaust gasses are not hotter with the wrap. They exit the exhaust valve at the same temperature as always. Wrapping the exhaust pipe simply prevents a lot of heat from escaping into the engine compartment where it heats things up quite a bit.

Since less heat is radiated into the engine compartment, your side pannels, air box, fuel tank, and everything under the hood will be cooler. This is bad?

Many exhaust systems are double walled. Part of this is to keep the chrome from turning colors. Still, if insulating the exhaust pipe was a bad idea they would not do it. A double walled exhaust is essentially doing the same thing as wrapping. It retains exhaust gas heat inside the exhaust pipe.

Think of it this way. You have your hot water heater set at 125 degrees but your uninsulated pipes are losing heat and delivering only 110 degree water to the faucet.

If you insulate your pipes you'll get 120 degree water at the faucet. And you have not changed anything at the hot water heater. You're still generating the same 125 degree water.

You're not making the hot water heater run hotter and you're not making your engine run hotter by insulatiing the pipes. Your engine should actually run cooler, though I doubt we will see any difference.

[SpyderGirl]

It seems to me that the benefits of wrapping your headers far outweighs the side effects.

On a side note, I noticed tonight that my exhaust is leaking.... and yes, I have a Hindle. I do not know how long it's been leaking, but it definitely is. Just one more thing for the dealer when it goes in for service.

[BajaRon]

It seems to me that the benefits of wrapping your headers far outweighs the side effects.

On a side note, I noticed tonight that my exhaust is leaking.... and yes, I have a Hindle. I do not know how long it's been leaking, but it definitely is. Just one more thing for the dealer when it goes in for service.

Be sure the "Leak" is not designed in. Most mufflers have a weep hole designed to get rid of condensation. It will be located on the bottom at, or near, the lowest point of the muffler. You will get a small amount of exhaust through this hole.

If the leak is in the piping (which yours is not) then that is a failed gasket or lose fit (probably the gasket).

Lamont has found an exhaust gasket made by Honda that is less money and looks to be a better product than the BRP version. That is what I will use if I need to replace mine.

[krb1945]

Lamonster which Honda p/n did you use to get the exhaust gaskets I want to go ahead and order some to have on hand?

I'm sure when the good number is posted their supply will decrease some.

Thank you, Ken

[SpyderGirl]

Be sure the "Leak" is not designed in. Most mufflers have a weep hole designed to get rid of condensation. It will be located on the bottom at, or near, the lowest point of the muffler. You will get a small amount of exhaust through this hole.

If the leak is in the piping (which yours is not) then that is a failed gasket or lose fit (probably the gasket).

Lamont has found an exhaust gasket made by Honda that is less money and looks to be a better product than the BRP version. That is what I will use if I need to replace mine.

No, it's not the weep hole, I know all about that. It's back further, where it slips onto the header. I started the Spyder up last night and noticed it sounded like it was sputtering a bit and breathing funny. I stuck my hand underneath the exhaust pipe and could feel a considerable amount of exhaust coming out near the joint. I'm going to work on it this week and weekend and work all the kinks out.

[BLACK WIDOW]

No, it's not the weep hole, I know all about that. It's back further, where it slips onto the header. I started the Spyder up last night and noticed it sounded like it was sputtering a bit and breathing funny. I stuck my hand underneath the exhaust pipe and could feel a considerable amount of exhaust coming out near the joint. I'm going to work on it this week and weekend and work all the kinks out.

When you get those "Kinks" worked out I'm sure a bunch of folks would like to know what they were since exhaust leaks seem to be a major issue with the Spyder.

[BajaRon]

Lamonster which Honda p/n did you use to get the exhaust gaskets I want to go ahead and order some to have on hand?

I'm sure when the good number is posted their supply will decrease some.

Thank you, Ken

Way better Y-pipe gasket for 1/2 the price

[SpyderGirl]

When you get those "Kinks" worked out I'm sure a bunch of folks would like to know what they were since exhaust leaks seem to be a major issue with the Spyder.

I will let you know if I have any luck. I just noticed the leak last night after about 10K miles of having the Hindle installed.

[ataDude]

I will let you know if I have any luck. I just noticed the leak last night after about 10K miles of having the Hindle installed.

One easy way to tell whether or not you have an upper or lower gasket leak is to take a shop towel (or two) and momentarily block the muffler exit. If you have a leak upstream, you'll hear it.

.

[Just Doo Me]

Does anyone for see a problem with the wrap holding condensation and causing the pipe to prematurely rust out? More so in the cooler damper climates,when the temps. fluctuate greatly overnight.

[Lamonster]

Lamonster which Honda p/n did you use to get the exhaust gaskets I want to go ahead and order some to have on hand?

I'm sure when the good number is posted their supply will decrease some.

Thank you, Ken

Same one you found
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=12853
as ataDude pointed out.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...97&postcount=7

It's a much better gasket than stock.

[bone crusher]

Same one you found
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=12853
as ataDude pointed out.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...97&postcount=7

It's a much better gasket than stock.

Is this thing needed with the hindle? Anything higher up?

[ataDude]

Does anyone for see a problem with the wrap holding condensation and causing the pipe to prematurely rust out? More so in the cooler damper climates,when the temps. fluctuate greatly overnight.

The stock pipes are stainless steel.

.

[BajaRon]

The stock pipes are stainless steel.

.

You beat me to it...

They are talking about Ceramic coating on the general board. That is the best way to go for sure. Much more expensive but does an even better job of holding the heat in than this wrap does.

Looks great too but that's not really an issue with the Spyder. I hope someone goes that route and lets us know.

[Spanky]

You beat me to it...

They are talking about Ceramic coating on the general board. That is the best way to go for sure. Much more expensive but does an even better job of holding the heat in than this wrap does.

Looks great too but that's not really an issue with the Spyder. I hope someone goes that route and lets us know.

I know someone already did go to ceramic but I am not sure if it was on this board or not. It was about a year ago.

I did not hear any results.

[BajaRon]

I know someone already did go to ceramic but I am not sure if it was on this board or not. It was about a year ago.

I did not hear any results.

I knew that Ceramic vs Tape thread wouldn't last on the general board. Surprised Lamont let it go this long.

There was a member that posted he did his Honda Valkyrie in Ceramic and liked the results. That had to be more for asthetics than for any real need. I had a Valkyrie and I didn't see any need for ceramics.

On another note, I worked for a Chief in San Diego who went by the nickname of Spanky. I hear he still rides and will be at Sturgis.

Maybe Spanky's are all riders!

[krb1945]

You hit it out of the park with your writeup.

One way you can tell if you have too rich a mixture with the stock system is to watch your oil. If your oil gets a dark or dirty looking appearance in just a few hundred miles... more than likely you have a rich fuel mixture or a restricted air cleaner filter.

A lean a mixture and your exhaust pipe will overtemp and turn color, if chrome it will usually turn a shade of blue. Also if you lean out too much the machine will nose over when accelerating hard or if you demand power. Sometimes if it is too lean it will have a tendency to backfire when decelerating.

I just ordered my 50 foot roll of white insulation this evening. I've got two to wrap. JC Whitney has what I believe is a decent price on it. That assumption is based on what the price is here where I live.

The best way to treat these pipes is to use the ceramic coating inside and out. But it is expensive and the unit is down for awhile unless you just happen to have a complete set of replacement pipes.

I used Lamonsters idea of removing the two splash guards underneath the engine compartment. Under the same basic conditions, 90 degrees and 90 percent humidity, the temp gauge now runs 2 bars lower on both the SE5 and SM5.

[BajaRon]

You hit it out of the park with your writeup.

One way you can tell if you have too rich a mixture with the stock system is to watch your oil. If your oil gets a dark or dirty looking appearance in just a few hundred miles... more than likely you have a rich fuel mixture or a restricted air cleaner filter.

A lean a mixture and your exhaust pipe will overtemp and turn color, if chrome it will usually turn a shade of blue. Also if you lean out too much the machine will nose over when accelerating hard or if you demand power. Sometimes if it is too lean it will have a tendency to backfire when decelerating.

I just ordered my 50 foot roll of white insulation this evening. I've got two to wrap. JC Whitney has what I believe is a decent price on it. That assumption is based on what the price is here where I live.

The best way to treat these pipes is to use the ceramic coating inside and out. But it is expensive and the unit is down for awhile unless you just happen to have a complete set of replacement pipes.

I used Lamonsters idea of removing the two splash guards underneath the engine compartment. Under the same basic conditions, 90 degrees and 90 percent humidity, the temp gauge now runs 2 bars lower on both the SE5 and SM5.

Removing the splash panels does help, especially when you're moving. Not so much in stop and go or sitting still.

The tape is a poor man's fix but it is a good alternative and not a Micky Mouse approach.

It takes awhile to do with the pipes on but with a little patience it comes out pretty good. I did both mine and Lamont's and we are both happy with the results.

[SpyderGirl]

I just got done wrapping my pipes up and have already started it up once and now I am letting it cool before I start her up again. It took me about an hour to do this and I used 30' at 2" width. I didn't take the pipes off to do it.

[BajaRon]

I just got done wrapping my pipes up and have already started it up once and now I am letting it cool before I start her up again. It took me about an hour to do this and I used 30' at 2" width. I didn't take the pipes off to do it.

Let us know what you think overall as far as reduction in heat that you might notice.

[SpyderGirl]

Well after the ride today they have stopped smoking, which is good. I also had did a radiator flush and refill with Engine Ice as well as changing the spark plugs out to iridium plugs. I was hoping that all of that, along with the fact that I just changed the oil would let it run a little cooler. I think it might be, but it's difficult to tell. I was running between 3 and 5 bars during the ride, it stayed mostly at 4... it's too early to tell though, I'll keep you all updated.

[BajaRon]

Well after the ride today they have stopped smoking, which is good. I also had did a radiator flush and refill with Engine Ice as well as changing the spark plugs out to iridium plugs. I was hoping that all of that, along with the fact that I just changed the oil would let it run a little cooler. I think it might be, but it's difficult to tell. I was running between 3 and 5 bars during the ride, it stayed mostly at 4... it's too early to tell though, I'll keep you all updated.

The exhaust wraps main function is to reduce temperatures in the engine compartment by keeping the heat inside the exhaust pipe and not allowing so much of it to radiate out. Though this should reduce engine temp some, it probably is not going to be a noticable amount.

If the Engine Ice reduces coolant temps that will decrease exhaust gas temps and that will (along with the wrap) reduce engine compartment temps even more.

If you used the standard 50/50 coolant/water solution the Engine Ice will probably not drop your temps very much. Usually about 5~8 degrees at 200 degrees.

If you go to a 30/70 coolant/water solution the effect is usually 15~20 degree reducion at 200 degrees. Anti-Freeze is not a very good conductor of heat and actually traps heat in the coolant. Water is a better conductor of heat and helps additives like Engine Ice to be more effictive.

Though some need a 50/50 mix it is overkill for most areas. A 30/70 mix will give you freeze protection down to Zero degrees. Most people don't need the -34 degree protection provided by a 50/50 mix.

Seems like our Spyders are much more likely to get too hot than to get too cold.

[aka1004]

Today was the full day of ryde after the exhaust pipes were unwrapped ( had wrapped end to end) and ryde were between 70-114 degrees(from los Angeles to corona to San Diego to palm springs.

I did get little more heat on my legs and plastics did get noticeably hotter BUT coolant temp was lower by... I would like to call it half a bar

it went up 6 bar only one time all day (it's been creeping up to 6 bars costantly in hotter weather) and cycle between 4 and 5 bar were quicker meaning once it went up to 5 bars it was brought down to 4 a bit quicker. It did not make enough difference to bring it down to 4 bars in 114 degree weather thou.

When I get home splash guards are comming off.
The guy who is selling his spyder had his off and claims a 2 bar diffence and I am looking forward to that.

[SPYDERPOPS]

Ron,
I agree with you 100% about wraping the exhaust! The word I was waiting to see was Scavage. As I understand the principle when you wrap your headers it makes the hot gases scavage out much quicker and actually pulls heat away from the engine quicker. This is supposed to help keep the heads cooler and engine temps lower. That's the added performance process.

I would suggest that everyone take the pipes off so that they can be wrapped as close as possible to the heads in order to get the process started sooner. Yes, if you leave too much bare pipe at the heads it could cause overheating in the flange area and could cause gasket problems there. Short cuts shouldn't be taken in this process, get the insulation as close to the flanges as possible and the only way to do this is by removing the headers.

The best way to secure the wrap is to use stainless steel safety wire and safety wire plyers. I have used this method on ATV's for years and not once has any wrap come loose due to vibration or water contact.
HC