2012 RT - NOCO Genius 2D maintainer - confused, conflicting advice - Help/advice?

[Mike2012RT]

BTW - I've tried doing my own due diligence on this re Can Am owner manual; NOCO 2D manual (conflicting advice re set up to poles or to ground); YT videos; and related threads in forums in this community. 2012 RT manual refers to battery poles access under the seat, but I cannot attach the eyelets that come w direct mount Genius2D bc of the known "don't mess w the negative pole under the seat bc of the hidden backing nut" nightmare problem.

I am a rookie to all this for sure. I realize advice from all kinds of sources can vary from truly expert to "just trying to be helpful" opinions from experienced riders sharing what they've done or heard. That seems to be the source of some of the contradictions, I'm guessing.

Not wanting to remove panels to connect directly to the battery...but maybe I have to?? Conflicting advice in answers in this community's forums and on YT videos re attaching directly to both battery poles vs using a ground screw on the frame somewhere. That would let me attach the 2D maintainer to the (+) pole or extender nut maybe (seems hard to get at both) and then finding an acceptable screw to attach to elsewhere. Eyelets/cables seem to allow a bit over 2' gap between connections.

If there were any simple ways I should be doing this that don't require panel removal, I'd prefer to use them - I know it's a "direct mount" model but there's nowhere to put it under the seat it seems. With only having to use it during winter storage months it seems a small hassle to just not use it as a "direct mount" and simply connect and disconnect it for the temporary use during winter storage. Or should I get pigtails and mount them to the battery and somehow pass wires into the back storage compartment to mount the Genius2D there?

Most videos I've seen on YT are of frunk battery attachments (after 2012) and they most often show people attaching directly to both poles, which the Genius says not to do, but the Spyder manual says is ok (for standard charging, while not specifying how that direction changes for the referenced "trickle" charging mentioned on pg 139).

I've spent hours looking for YT videos and reading on this. Plenty of differing answers. Hard to find things on the 2012 specifically. Looking for a bit more wisdom from 2012'ers out there on this before I start a project that becomes a pandora's box, esp if there's some simple answer that I'm missing. Maybe get adapter cables that will take the eyelets on Genius2D Maintainer and change them to alligator clips for easy connecting... but then still the issue of using that under seat (-) terminal or not?

Appreciate some guidance...

[pegasus1300]

I had to read your post a couple of times, but I think your question is how to connect your battery tender to your 2012 RT battery thru the negative post on the right side, is that right? If so, you will need to remove the panels on the RT as if you were going to change the oil. This is so you can remove the panel that goes around the front of the left bag. This will allow you access to the battery itself and the terminals on the battery. Don't worry about the negative terminal on the right side, just go straight to the battery. It's not hard, just time consuming. In 8 years of ownership of my 2012 I have not found an easier way. Maybe someone smarter than me has a better way?!

[Bfromla]

Cig plug adapter maybe? Not familiar with that charger. I do believe there was a Spyder fuse swap that would keep the cig plug powered to use as a charger connection. Good luck! Thanks for looking & asking, not just becoming a horror story.

[Mike2012RT]

Thanks for the replies! Guess it looks like panels it is...

Pegasus1300, sounds like you attach directly to battery posts then and not a ground screw on frame elsewhere (for the negative cable attachment from the maintainer/tender)? Correct?

[pegasus1300]

Yes I go from both battery posts. It has worked well there for 8 years. If you have the option of alligator clips you can use those in the two remote posts under the seat but to me it was worth it to go with the permanent mounts. I keep just a few inches hanging out from under the seat so I can plug in when I come home from a ride without raising the seat.

[rjinaz86323]

since I don't own an RT I have a question (just curious). Is the battery in a different location than on an F3?

[NorwegianRT]

On a 2012 RT the battery is located on left side under the seat and just below the passenger's handlebar. So it requires some panels being removed.
On later models I believe the battery is moved to the frunk! Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[Peter Aawen]

since I don't own an RT I have a question (just curious). Is the battery in a different location than on an F3?

On a 2012 RT the battery is located on left side under the seat and just below the passenger's handlebar. So it requires some panels being removed.
On later models I believe the battery is moved to the frunk! Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Wot 'e says! ^^

Spyders earlier than 2013 had their batteries under the seat! From 2013 on, the batteries were mounted behind a panel in the frunk.

[K80Shooter]

I agree with pegasus1300, go ahead and do it right the 1st time then forget about it. Also make sure that you use star washers to keep the connections tight.

Keep in mind that with that model charger you cannot go with a lithium battery but need to stay with the agm or lead acid battery.
The NOCO Genius 2 will work with any battery but the 2D will not.

Noco chargers are good, I have several of them and one of their batteries.

[Mike2012RT]

Thanks K80Shooter and others. Hit me with the "do it right the first time" idea. Appreciate the wisdom re the Genius 2D not for lithium batteries. Since AGM was OEM, I'm hoping that's what's still in there when I open it up. Maybe I'm best returning my 2D and switching to a Genius2 instead. Thanks for the thoughtfulness...

[Mike2012RT]

Pegasus1300 & K80Shooter, thanks so much for your wisdom and encouragement on this little (turned bigger) project. It took longer than I wanted, or than it should've taken (ever heard that before?) but it was a great choice to "just do it the right way the first time". I found a really helpful video on YT (can't recall if I'm allowed to post links to YT videos so I'll avoid for now but can add if allowed - feel like I'm recalling something in the rules about posting links) that went thru step by step. Took back seat off, removed top pin of seat shock/riser and from there it all went easily/well. When putting the main side panel back in I discovered the clip nut to the frame had slipped down and the R side screw wasn't catching - I realized it'd slipped down and was able to retrieve it, bend it a touch to tighten it up, and then electrical tape it back into place. The L side pin seemed really short and didn't punch back in like the R one did - I could've taken the whole thing apart but it seemed to be snug enough to be acceptable. I will keep an eye on that.

I did switch out and bought the Noco2 instead, so I have an X-connector rather than limitation of Noco2D forcing me to keep the unit onboard always. Unfortunately, the Noco2 wire didn't reach far enough to sneak out behind the seat - it needed probably 2 more inches. It's sitting under the seat, so that it's not a big deal to access for charging. The bike tried to turn over and failed on trying to restart it. Bummer. It's been in the 30's here over recent days. Not sure if cold drains the battery much quicker or not. It started easily last week when I moved it out of my storage spot in the garage to be able to do this project. I wonder if there's some sort of drain that occurs w removing the cables etc? The Noco is charging it right now - registered at 25% initially.

It has definitely helped me to feel more confident understanding the bike and lessen the hesitation/anxiety/uncertainty over dealing w panels etc. Really no big deal when you follow the instructions (YT was so helpful). Frustrating though to see videos of everyone using both battery posts, then reading of a few riders who had arcing problems, or an explosion happened; reading the 2D manual saying connect to frame and not the post but then seeing the Noco videos always showing connection to both battery posts is frustrating too. The Noco2 manual does say use both posts, in contrast to the 2D manual. It seems to be working either way. Tough being a novice and having so many different answers to sort thru.

Thanks to you both so much for "pushing" me to do the direct connect. I'll be inclined to do more myself and save money... and understand my bike better because of your encouragement!!

[K80Shooter]

@Mike2012RT, I'm glad that you took the time to do it right the 1st time. Noco does make an extension cable if you need it, it is called " GC004, X-Connect 10 Foot Extension Cable". On sale from Noco for 21.95, normal cost is 29.95
My only gripe is that it only comes in 10' but at least there is one.

I leave my charger on my bike at all times, but I have several of them so that's not a big deal for me.

There is a small draw on the battery at all times so after a period of time the battery will drain down, at least on my 2020 there is so I would assume it's that way on the older ones also.

[pegasus1300]

My 2012 also has a slight parasitic drain, so I always keep it on a tender. Mine is an old Battery Tender brand but has worked well since 2015 when I bought my Spyder RT. When riding every day in the Utah riding season or on trips, I don't worry about it. My pigtail resides under the seat also but comes out the side when needed. In the future, removing the seat support is usually enough to get clearance to remove the panel screws. It can be removed from the seat stud by lifting up the retaining spring on the head and pulling the support off the stud.

I am happy that you got it done and are happy with the outcome. And thanks for reporting back. Many do not, so we never know if they were successful or not.