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Active Member
Monster upgrade
O.K., I have been keeping an eye on all the comments on here about Monster s/w upgrades and I need some
serious opinions on what level of upgrade to do. This will happen to my 2017 F3L which has a top speed of about
85 mph due to ECU closing down my throttle input. I generally take one or two long trips every summer and I will
not ride behind trucks. I have seen what happens when a truck tire comes off the rim. My 2015 F3L would run 115 mph
with throttle to go and passing anything was quick.
So, I am needing input as to which level I should have installed. The bike has a cat delete pipe and a good flow muffler and
I do not hotrod or race the bike.
Feel free to jump in here with your experience and recommendations.
Thanks in advance.
Dray
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your 17 will not be as pepe as 15 due to pulley go stage 2
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Very Active Member
Wick-It Performance in Shreveport is the USA vendor for Monster. Give them a call with all your questions..
Wick-It Performance
1725D N Hearne Ave, Shreveport, Louisiana 71107, United States
(318)562-6961
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Dray
O.K., I have been keeping an eye on all the comments on here about Monster s/w upgrades and I need some
serious opinions on what level of upgrade to do. This will happen to my 2017 F3L which has a top speed of about
85 mph due to ECU closing down my throttle input. I generally take one or two long trips every summer and I will
not ride behind trucks. I have seen what happens when a truck tire comes off the rim. My 2015 F3L would run 115 mph
with throttle to go and passing anything was quick.
So, I am needing input as to which level I should have installed. The bike has a cat delete pipe and a good flow muffler and
I do not hotrod or race the bike.
Feel free to jump in here with your experience and recommendations.
Thanks in advance.
Dray
I have a 2017 F3 Limited and mine will do over 100 MPH. You may have something wrong somewhere for it not to go over 85 MPH
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Active Member
I also just question your top speed and the trouble with trucks, I to have seen a strip of rubber fly off a truck in Tx some years ago just when it lost the rubber and pasted me in the same lane about head HIGH. My other question passing trucks at all, and what speed you need to do this in. Tx montana, SD ND and many points west have speed limits of 80 but as the years have gone by most trucks are monitored very close and as i have noticed are not the trouble in the roads as they do not travel at those max speeds when HQ could come down hard on them.
but toping out at 85 seems strange. I have issue when cars pass ME on interstates and they at times are not nice about getting out of lane fully to pass. Im not a slow driver but I surely have stopped over speeding. Trying to live a little longer than I thought I would 50 years ago
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Very Active Member
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Active Member
I also have a 2017 F3 LImited which is stock. It will surpass 100 mph with a big F4 windshield, not sure how much higher it will go. These motors require appropriate back pressure, what was your top end before modifications ??
johnv
USMC RETIRED
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Active Member
Call wick it performance...I recommend the stage II... especially since you have a cat delete pipe installed on yours.
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Very Active Member
What does Wick-it charge for a Stage 1 remap? Thanks.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JayBros
What does Wick-it charge for a Stage 1 remap? Thanks.
$395 stage I and $515 stage II
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Very Active Member
With the cat delete stage 2 is the way to go.
Stage 1 is more suited for more air restriction (cat & baffles)
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
hi Dray
i have Monster stg1 and its fine(i havent done any WOT runs tho)but it runs up to 85mph effortlessly so i would expect it do the ton
i have standard exhaust up to the muffler,and then a baffled akra
i will not be changing the tune...i cant ride this bike to its limits anyway and love the power spread just as it is(also love the addictive intake howl)
rpm limit is raised(not necc IMHO) but once you change gear at over 8grand...well,lets just say i wont be doing it again...i want the gearbox to last forever
im not sure but does your agent allow upping to stage2 for the price difference,if you already bought stage1?
Stage 1 is thumbs up
russ
just an afterthought...re overtaking..these tunes just make the bike so much safer to ride....2nd or third gear from around 4grand and the bike just rockets...you can pass traffic with much less time spent on the wrong side of the road,espec if you are a big guy or have high combined weight on the bike
pres ride
2014 RT-S
bike is WIP
bike has endured elect spike (was jump started incorrectly)
still a WIP but bike is now running and registered....swapped out 5 modules mostly sourced from Canadian wrecker
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Active Member
Thanks Guys for all the input!! I will just call the guys and see what they recommend. I may have to change the
gearing to get what I want.
Thanks again.
Dray
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there is no changing the gearing
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Originally Posted by fatboy
there is no changing the gearing
I am hoping someone can figure that gearing change out...I have everything to change my 2014 RTS from the stock 79T set up the 89T set up...MFI was working on it but never got it figured out...They had it working on 1 RT but shortly after he thought he had it there were shifting problems that he couldn't cure...I'm sure there's a way but no one is saying if they did figure it out...
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Larry, don't hold me to this cos it's only a supposition, but I wonder if you could possibly get the 'driveline' side of things to work with the different gearing if you changed the Country specification in the BUDS set-up to Australia or Europe.... but I suspect strongly that if you did that, the engine & gears etc might work sorta OK, but you'd VERY LIKELY have all sorts of issues with other things, like the headlights, the radio/sound system, & quite possibly more!!
That said, from what I've seen & heard about this, I reckon BRP has very carefully designed their various Control Systems to prohibit any ability to change the gearing like you want to - as far as their various computer control systems and their integration is concerned, you'll only ever get what you already got!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
HEY DRAY, I think you have other issues going on that need to be figured out before you do an ECM flash or talk about a gear swap.
T.P.
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Larry, don't hold me to this cos it's only a supposition, but I wonder if you could possibly get the 'driveline' side of things to work with the different gearing if you changed the Country specification in the BUDS set-up to Australia or Europe.... but I suspect strongly that if you did that, the engine & gears etc might work sorta OK, but you'd VERY LIKELY have all sorts of issues with other things, like the headlights, the radio/sound system, & quite possibly more!!
That said, from what I've seen & heard about this, I reckon BRP has very carefully designed their various Control Systems to prohibit any ability to change the gearing like you want to - as far as their various computer control systems and their integration is concerned, you'll only ever get what you already got!
BRP has it working with the F3's...Some with 79T and some with 89T...I'm sure its doable, but way out of my league...I recently talked to Steve at MFI about taking my RT to him with the 89T set up installed and letting him work it out...He said he'd try on my dime but no guarantee$$$...So for now I plan to upgrade from stage 1 to stage 2...I think the 89T set up on the heaver and often ridden 2 up RT's would be a win win...larryd
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Very Active Member
Once I was behind a flatbed truck that was hauling bricks and a couple came off of it and just seemed to hang in mid air right in front of me, kinda scarey. Another time I was following a truck and some sheets of drywall lifted outa the truck and just seemed to hang the before slamming into my windshield on my 84 VW Beetle on a two lane bridge with no where to go. Don't know how we survived either but here I am. Sometimes ya gotta wonder how we are still alive. Just the luck of the draw I guess. Good luck with your problem. Something is definitely wrong with it only goin to 85. Mike
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
Will it ever stop--NO
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Very Active Member
I went with the Monster stage one first and this past year went Stage two. Very happy.
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
Will it ever stop--NO
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power Limit switch
Hi Dray, there is a power limiting passenger switch under the rear passenger seat. Try riding with the seat off to see if it is making contact with the switch? I removed the plastic dome cover on mine to give extra clearance. Try activating the switch with your fingers a couple of times. Make sure it is all the way up. When this switch is activated by passenger weight it puts the power to sleep just like you describe.
Good Luck
Dennis
btw, I have two ECUs, stage 1 and stage 2. I have switched back and forth several times. The biggest difference I feel is stage two goes to red line faster above 6,500 rpm. Practical passing power is really close to the same on both stages. Often I would forget which was which when I switched. In my opinion, stage 2 is a better fit for manual transmissions. My automatic transmission really clunks with upper rpm shifting.
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Active Member
Monster update!! I recently had my 2017 F3L bike in the shop for new front gear, belt, new rear axle and bearings that were all messed up.
During the 3 weeks that this took, two s/w updates were done and now my bike will run over a 100 mph with out a problem. Whatever was
done upgraded my highway speeds so passing trucks is not a problem. Thanks for all the input.
Dray
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