Peacekeeper6 Mod Thread

[Peacekeeper6]

You know sooner or later you have to redo your picture on your page, so that we will get the whole, before and after affects, because some of the things you have done are to the outside of your ride!!

You're right, my sig pic really needs to be updated, LOL.

[Peacekeeper6]

19) Lamonster Double Vision Daytime Running Lights (4 A-arms)

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - These LED strips are a bit too long. I had to measure it and cut about 2.75" off the ends. I don't want to say 2.75" is THE length to cut off if or when you receive yours, because these may come from different manufacturers with different lengths. I suggest to measure yours prior to cutting it to make sure it fits correctly. The strip has SPECIFIC lines where you can cut so that you don't destroy one of the LED lights.

Notes: I REALLY like how these double A-arm lights transform our bike. I also have the lighted bumpskid and Spyclops II, both LEDs, and it matches them perfectly. If motorists can't see me coming, they're either blind as a bat, or they're busy screwing around with the controls of their radio. They are THAT noticeable, and increases the safety factor even more.



20) WOLO Bad Boy Air Horn

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - Raise the bike for better access underneath. Also, to make it easier on yourself, connect the supplied wiring harness to the horn prior to installing it on the bracket. When you try to connect this wiring harness to the stock bike's original horn wiring, remove the stock horn (just remove the nut). Doing so WILL give you more room to connect them. Then just zip tie the wiring to the hole in the bracket where the stock horn was.

Notes: I'm not exactly sure if the WOLO is any louder than stock, but IF it is, it's very negligible. However, I DO like the tone better, so I guess it was a worthwhile upgrade.



21) RLS Cat Delete Muffler (chrome)

Difficulty Level - 2.0 (if you're old and have lost a lot of muscle strength, have your son or grandson deal with those pesky springs)

Tips - Raise the bike for better access underneath. The bottom two springs are *relatively* easy, but IF you can't remove the springs, try tying a paracord on the supplied spring removal tool. Measure the paracord long enough so that you can use your LEGS instead, because your leg muscles are bigger and A LOT stronger than your arm muscles. I had to do this to remove the top spring. The weird thing was, I didn't have to use this paracord trick to reinstall that same spring. I suppose I finally got the technique right during the second go-around. I would access the top spring from the RIGHT side of the pipe as well. Also, put a little lube on the mounting bars of the new cat delete pipe. Doing so makes it slide easier for a more positive connection.

Notes: I let the bike idle for 10 minutes so the bike's ECU can adjust to the new change. I noticed two things: (1) it has a throatier growl, and (2) it made my garage stink. I took it out for a quick test ride and noticed that it seemed quicker on acceleration. This is probably because I installed the supplied baffle to maintain some backpressure. Coupled with my Two Brothers Racing exhaust, it has a WAY better sound than stock. In addition, this cat delete from RLS not only sounds good, but LOOKS good too. It's such a shame that it's not easily seen and admired due to its location. IMHO, it's one of the better made and better looking cat delete pipes available.

(I installed all 3 mods in one afternoon, as you can see by the difficulty level).

[Lew L]

.

Ya know Lou-------

I often have a flair for the " understatement" BUT ----- Your ryde can be seen from the ISS!!

Speaking of the ISS. There is a website http://www.heavens-above.com that calls out the satellite passes. It's fairly easy to use( But you must give the city location in the upper right corner of the home page) and the ISS often puts on quite a show as at high azimuth passes it is as bright as Venus but moving.

Lew L

[Peacekeeper6]

.

Ya know Lou-------

I often have a flair for the " understatement" BUT ----- Your ryde can be seen from the ISS!!

Speaking of the ISS. There is a website http://www.heavens-above.com that calls out the satellite passes. It's fairly easy to use( But you must give the city location in the upper right corner of the home page) and the ISS often puts on quite a show as at high azimuth passes it is as bright as Venus but moving.

Lew L

Funny how in my first post, I thought having LEDs on all 4 A-arms would be "over the top". Guess that proves that nothing is really "written in stone" when it comes to mods. Now I can be seen not only from the ISS, but from the satellite orbiting Mars, LOL.

Thanks for that website, Lew. I am a space nerd myself (LOVE all the "Star Trek" series/movies, as well as "Star Wars"). I used to have an app called "Star Walk" or "Star Tracker" that would show where the constellations were in the sky. Pretty neat.

Anyway, hope you can organize a ride with our group soon when it gets a bit warmer. Kinda over the snow and skiing/snowboarding, it's time to hop on our 2 or 3 wheeled bikes and ride ....

[Peacekeeper6]

22) Lamonster IPS Bar End Caps

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - If you try and install one bar end cap and it doesn't look or feel right, try switching it to the other. When I initially installed my left bar end, I noticed it stuck WAY out. I figured there's NO WAY Lamont and his crew would supply me with such an accessory that doesn't look good. That's not the "Lamonster Way", lol. I didn't notice a "R" or "L" mark in the packaging, but just got excited about installing it because they do look pretty sharp.

Notes: I had two Lidlox bar end helmet holders, but found that I wasn't using them as much as I wanted. I think it's because when I hang my helmet(s), the wind tends to hit them and in turn, hits my bike (yes, it's often pretty windy out here in NV). Also, when it rains hard, these things become BRP Water Collectors. I guess that's a good thing ........ if you were selected as a participant in the next "Naked and Afraid" episode. So I just started placing my helmets on the seat and securing them with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dakine-100027...s%2C158&sr=8-2

(It wasn't an additional expense, because I also use this cable lock to secure my skis or snowboard when I go to the lodge and have a few coldies).

Anyway, ever since I started doing this, I also found that my seat remains cool, since our helmets provide shade. That is why I decided to remove the Lidlox and replace them with these IPS Caps which look A LOT better.

[Peacekeeper6]

Not much mod per se, but just a quick tip.

I also frequent the many pages on Facebook involving Spyders. Many times, I run across owners breaking their latch release on their side compartments when they're trying to open them. I think this happens because the compartment doesn't open, so they end up using MORE force, hoping it'll release.

DO NOT PULL THE LATCH WITH GORILLA FORCE !! IT WILL NOT OPEN, AND YOU WILL END UP BREAKING IT !!!!

My left side compartment wasn't releasing open, so I decided to YouTube the problem. Lo and behold, there's some helpful Spyder Ryder who has documented the cable adjustment, and I just followed his clear and thorough instructions. Fifteen minutes later (I take my sweet old time), the problem was solved, and I now have a fully functional side compartment latch release.

So, what's the lesson here ??

IF you encounter the same problem, do NOT force the issue. You WILL end up making the problem worse. If you don't know the difference between a Torx 30 and a 4mm Allen, find a fellow rider who can turn a wrench and see if you can offer him a six-pack of his favorite drink while he adjusts your cable. Trust me, it's no skin off his back, and you *may* actually learn something about fixing your bike should the other side happens to start acting up.

Anyway, that's my rant.

Have a good day ....

[Peacekeeper6]

BTW, if anyone is interested in TWO Lidlox helmet locks, please don't hesitate to PM me.

(They are about 2 years old, but I dropped and lost one of the small set screws when I initially installed it. However, I've found that it still works without it).

[Peacekeeper6]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug

Difficulty Level - 1.0

Tips - Jack up the bike for easier access. You can use a Dremel and trim off a small section just forward of the drain plug while it's still attached to the bike. If you do not have access to such tool, the panel can be easily removed because it is attached with only push pins. You can then use a pair of tin snips to easily cut through the plastic. I had to do the latter because I couldn't find my Dremel for the life of me, LOL.

Notes: "Why would you do such a thing", you ask yourself. Well, the last time I performed an oil change, the part of the hot oil stream that was draining was hitting this panel. This resulted in a mess, but was easily cleaned by removing the lower left body panel (the one that seems to always fly off) and then wiping the top of the panel. By making the hole a bit bigger, it will result in cleaner oil changes in the future.

(I'm betting dimes to donuts that there are a lot of Spyders out there that have this panel with a THICK coat of oil and dirt, resulting is a layer of "insulation", which isn't a good thing. This is why it is imperative (IMHO, anyway) that when the oil is draining that some of it isn't being caught by this panel).

[Haze]

Good job for the RT.
Thanks for the explanation.

[Peacekeeper6]

Good job for the RT.
Thanks for the explanation.

Yes, you are correct. I believe this mod applies only to the RT.

We tried to do this mod on your F3, but it wasn't necessary, iirc.

Let's get the group together and ryde soon !!

[EdMat]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug

Just take it off and leave it off. Help a lot with the rising heat. Thought it would cause a lot of crud to collect but that has turned out not to be the case.

[UtahPete]

23) Trimming off some plastic underneath engine oil drain plug. Difficulty Level - 1.0

(I'm betting dimes to donuts that there are a lot of Spyders out there that have this panel with a THICK coat of oil and dirt, resulting is a layer of "insulation", which isn't a good thing. This is why it is imperative (IMHO, anyway) that when the oil is draining that some of it isn't being caught by this panel).

Great idea.
20220703_110009.jpg

20220703_105944.jpg

[Peacekeeper6]

Just take it off and leave it off. Help a lot with the rising heat. Thought it would cause a lot of crud to collect but that has turned out not to be the case.

Yeah, or you can do that.

However, it is my opinion that it's better to leave it on for two reasons:

(1) it offers protection against any road debris (small rocks, gravel, etc.) and decreases the dirt collecting in the nooks and crannies of the machine, and

(2) it aids in the airflow from front to back when the bike is traveling at speed, which gives it a more efficient cooling effect.

[Peacekeeper6]

Great idea.
20220703_110009.jpg

20220703_105944.jpg

Love the small sticker denoting the size of the bit to use. I ended up buying the magnetic engine and transmission oil plugs that are hex, and will install them on the next oil change.

My cuts are a bit neater. I started with my Dremel Saw-Max tool and made one cut, but quickly realized that that it would end up pretty sloppy. The tool wasn't as manueverable as I thought, so I ended up removing the panel and finished it off with a pair of tin snips. Pretty happy with the results because it looks stock.

Too bad it's not easily seen and admired, lol.

[UtahPete]

Love the small sticker denoting the size of the bit to use. I ended up buying the magnetic engine and transmission oil plugs that are hex, and will install them on the next oil change.

My cuts are a bit neater. I started with my Dremel Saw-Max tool and made one cut, but quickly realized that that it would end up pretty sloppy. The tool wasn't as manueverable as I thought, so I ended up removing the panel and finished it off with a pair of tin snips. Pretty happy with the results because it looks stock.

Too bad it's not easily seen and admired, lol.

A craftsman I'm not!

The "sticker" is a piece of white duct tape. I use it a lot to label stuff.

[Peacekeeper6]

A craftsman I'm not!

Haha !!

Just as long as it works as intended, that's all that really matters !!

[Peter Aawen]

A craftsman I'm not!

Construction & Structural Engineers don't hafta be neat, Pete!

[UtahPete]

Construction & Structural Engineers don't hafta be neat, Pete!

Yeah, cladding covers a lot of mistakes!

[UtahPete]

Welp, after much deliberation and thought, I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Baja Ron Sway bar.

Anyway, can't wait to receive it and get started. I even went to the garage and did a quick survey on what to take off. Guess my LED bumpskid will be the first one to go....

I didn't have to remove the bumpskid for the sway bar replace project.

[Peacekeeper6]

I didn't have to remove the bumpskid for the sway bar replace project.

I didn't either. That friggen thing is surprisingly heavy.

What do you think of your new swaybar ??

[UtahPete]

I didn't either. That friggen thing is surprisingly heavy.

What do you think of your new swaybar ??

It looks great. Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride it yet.

[Peacekeeper6]

It looks great. Unfortunately I haven't been able to ride it yet.

Once you get a few miles with it, please write a review on it.

Curious to know what you think.

Thanks.

[Peacekeeper6]

24) Lamonster IPS Belt Tensioner

Difficulty Level - 1.5

Tips - Before you start, MAKE SURE THE BELT IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY !! If you tend to reverse your bike in your garage and start to work on it, you *MAY* find out that it won’t be centered after stopping in the forward motion, as in pulling forward into a parking spot. Why ?? The belt tends to “walk” a millimeter or two (perhaps more) between the forward and reverse motion of the rear wheel. If you install it after you reverse your bike into your garage, the roller might not be perfectly centered in the forward motion where it is supposed to be, and it is IMPERATIVE that it is dead center on the belt to maximize its effectiveness.



You WILL take off a few body panels, so if you tend to forget which fasteners go to which panel, try this trick as explained to me by my fellow Spyder Ryder Lew: when you remove the screws and push pins of a body panel, place ALL those fasteners in a Ziploc baggie and tape it on that panel. Then, when the time comes to install that panel back, you know EXACTLY which fasteners to use on it.

Notes: Lew was kind enough to give me his old tensioner (more like a dampener really) because I was still “on the fence” and very undecided on whether or not to install one. To me, it’s just another thing that can fail. But after watching this particular YouTube video, https://youtu.be/3eDlpv7Ks54, I decided I would install it. When I inspected the dampener that Lew gave me, I noticed that the roller was incredibly dinky. The small diameter roller would mean that it would end up spinning at stratospherically high rpms when I’m riding above 65 mph, resulting in A LOT of heat that would make the tensioner’s roller fail. Perhaps that is the reason why he upgraded to Lamonster’s tensioner, because his roller is substantially larger with TWO bearings. This means that the larger roller (which also seems smoother) will spin at lesser rpms and with those two bearings, result in less heat buildup and longer tensioner/roller life. These two reasons are why I decided to go ahead and purchase the IPS Belt Tensioner, instead of installing the one that Lew gave me.

I would’ve given this mod a 1.0, but the rear bolt proved just a bit difficult to install. The front one was easy, but I was a bit surprised that the second one fought me a little. I don’t feel too bad, because in the installation video, Lamont Bryden (the Mastermind behind Lamonster Garage) was also having the same problem, LOL.

I tested it the next day by going on the interstate and accelerating to 85 mph. When I didn’t have the tensioner, my bike would experience severe vibrations that were unnerving at speeds above 65 mph. However, I’ve found that my new tensioner GREATLY reduced the vibrations, to the point of not being able to feel them any longer. Smooth as silk !! This may also be because Lew, Dave (another local Spyder Ryder) and I reduced my belt tension from the factory setting of 220 to 150 using the Gates Krickit device. Lowering the tension AND installing this beefy (it really is a work of art: form AND function, “ya cain’t beat it !!”) tensioner completely changed my bike for the better.

Honestly, the only negative I can think of is inspecting/replacing the roller every 15,000 miles, as recommended by Lamont, who I believe is the designer of this worthwhile, high-quality product. (It seems like all of his IPS products are not only aesthetically pleasing, but screams “QUALITY”. That is why I didn’t hesitate buying this tensioner. Again, there is a reason why his products are on the upper end of the price scale, because quality and durability don’t come cheap). He really did an awesome job improving a poorly-designed part and making it look good AND, more importantly, making it perform flawlessly.

[UtahPete]

Once you get a few miles with it, please write a review on it.

Curious to know what you think.

Thanks.

I did write a review and responded to your poll.

[Peacekeeper6]

"I am glad for the improved cornering ability when pushing the machine's limits, but I didn't need it for routine riding." -UtahPete

I see that, LOL.