Console support - stuck screws

[roobus]

Couple issues, all with the console support. Have a screw that went in cockeyed and is now stuck. Had to Dremel the head off just so I could remove the fairing. But now don't know how to fix. Other issue is where the front screw goes. The support is missing the gold insert that the screw goes into, so now the screw has nothing to grab.

Should I just drill out the back screw and remove the threaded gold piece and use just a nut and bolt to attach my fairing. I can't find the threaded gold piece part number and don't even know if those can be replaced. Ideas?

consoleSupport.jpgconsoleSupport.jpg

[cptjam]

Easy fix:
Get a 5mm furniture T nut. About $2. Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold that plastic bracket on. Pull bracket out far enough to slip the T nut in from the back side. Put a bolt and washer on it, and draw the prongs on the T nut into the plastic. Remove the bolt, install the 10 mm bolts to secure the plastic bracket. Re assemble as normal. Fixed. I’ve done quite a few. Any questions, call me. Number below. Joe

[roobus]

Boom! There's the solution. Much appreciated. So would I just drill out the back screw and gold threaded circle to make way for the t-nut. I'm assuming yes, but just want to check. Thanks again.

[Bfromla]

Easy fix:
Get a 5mm furniture T nut. About $2. Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold that plastic bracket on. Pull bracket out far enough to slip the T nut in from the back side. Put a bolt and washer on it, and draw the prongs on the T nut into the plastic. Remove the bolt, install the 10 mm bolts to secure the plastic bracket. Re assemble as normal. Fixed. I’ve done quite a few. Any questions, call me. Number below. Joe

The “gold” your seeing is a brass fitting molded into the plastic not reasonably replaced & most likely no part # other than the entire plastic pice. Drilling out would just weaken the plastic Go with Joe’s experienced solutions him & Ann have worked on more spyders than ANY dealer tech the “unofficial Traviling spyder techs”

[cptjam]

Boom! There's the solution. Much appreciated. So would I just drill out the back screw and gold threaded circle to make way for the t-nut. I'm assuming yes, but just want to check. Thanks again.

Yes. Normally, the brass insert breaks away while trying to remove the bolt. If it is still in there, as soon as you drill on it it will come out. Then do the T nut. I bet if you put a vise grips on the bolt, and twist, it will pop out. Very common problem. The brass is delicate, and those bolts are to be installed by hand; power screwdrivers and impacts mess them up too easy.

[AeroPilot]

+1 " The brass is delicate, and those bolts are to be installed by hand; power screwdrivers and impacts mess them up too easy. "

My number one complaint with new techs at some dealers is tearing up the body fasteners with over torqueing drill/drivers!

[T.P.]

I just went through cross threading two of these on my Spyder. fixed with. https://tristar-inserts.com/headed-chevron-inserts/

metric flanged / M5.0 x 0.8 / 97171A350 Is what I got from. https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-inser...for-plastic-7/


got a bag of 50, used large phillips head to open up the back, made a small plug of masking tape for the back end to keep the JB out of the back end of the brass insert and JB welded them in, pushed plug out with tooth pick.

EASY FIX!

T.P.