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Start up after storage
Anybody using the wide open throttle method to get some oil to the upper end after winter storage? Just curious.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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No not me! Full throttle on start up is possibly the worst thing you could do to an engine. Moving parts need to be easily lubricated before being put under pressure of full throttle. I've seen people startup and hit the street at full throttle going through the gears and they don't realize they are shortening their engine life each and every time they do that. However, most people that do that never keep their rides long enough to ever realize an engine failure because of what they've done.
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Active Member
Some automotive engine ECU's allow for only running starter without fuel and spark when having 100% thottle at cranking, I guess this is what OP is asking about?
I have no idea if Spyder/Ryker ECU's are set up this way though.
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Very Active Member
Do you hold the gas pedal to the floor in your vehicle when you start it? Why in the world would you do that to your Spyder? If anything, the total opposite. Let it turn over a few times, then turn the key off...repeat a few times....then, let it start up with NO throttle added.
2021 RT Limited
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Greven
Some automotive engine ECU's allow for only running starter without fuel and spark when having 100% thottle at cranking, I guess this is what OP is asking about?
I have no idea if Spyder/Ryker ECU's are set up this way though.
I think this is what he is talking about also. Don't be too critical because this is a valid method if the car is set up this way. Doubt if the Spyder is set up to do this though.
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Start Up
......If and ONLY IF the Spyder engine ECM is set up with a crank but not fire mode, would it be okay to do what you asked.
I am not sure about the Spyder ECM on your Bike.
My TIP ..... Check with your Spyder Dealer Service Person.......
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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When I had a winter sleep in Alaska, we just turned the key, started in the "usual" way and drove off. I would give it a chance to warm up before going to normal throttle.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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To those posting replies with the thinking this guy plans to crank it up and go to max revs, that is not his plan at all. Others have had issues where the Spyder was temperamental, and not starting.
The wide open throttle crank does not let the Spyder start, but clears the motor of unburned fuel.
The original post is asking if a wide open crank, without the engine firing, is a benefit to build oil pressure and lubricate the engine, prior to a normal throttle closed start.
My opinion is you could, but there should be no issues just accomplishing a normal start, followed on with a good warm up before heading out.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PMK
To those posting replies with the thinking this guy plans to crank it up and go to max revs, that is not his plan at all. Others have had issues where the Spyder was temperamental, and not starting.
The wide open throttle crank does not let the Spyder start, but clears the motor of unburned fuel.
The original post is asking if a wide open crank, without the engine firing, is a benefit to build oil pressure and lubricate the engine, prior to a normal throttle closed start.
My opinion is you could, but there should be no issues just accomplishing a normal start, followed on with a good warm up before heading out.
" without the engine firing " ???? ….where exactly in the OP's post does it mention that ….. " bad info in - bad info out " …. but I agrre with the rest of your answer ….. Mike
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
" without the engine firing " ???? ….where exactly in the OP's post does it mention that ….. " bad info in - bad info out " …. but I agrre with the rest of your answer ….. Mike
The computer and fuel injection system, plus ignition are smart enough on these modern vehicles to know better and it is pretty obvious the OP understands this.
If this was old school carb and points ignition or even carb and electronic ignition without the brains to know better, it could fire and start wide open. Newer cars, motorcycles and other vehicles are far smarter than their older relatives.
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Originally Posted by ARtraveler
When I had a winter sleep in Alaska, we just turned the key, started in the "usual" way and drove off. I would give it a chance to warm up before going to normal throttle.
I remember reading somewhere that an instant start and go should not exceed 3/4's rpm of it's max rpm range until normal engine operating temp has been reached.
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"The computer and fuel injection system, plus ignition are smart enough on these modern vehicles to know better and it is pretty obvious the OP understands this.
"Are you sure about this PMK? After rereading the OP's question I'm not so sure he understands. His post begins with "Start up after storage." and ends with "Just curious." I know you know what you're talking about but I'm not sure the OP does or he wouldn't have ask the question. Hopefully he'll respond and set us all straight. LOL
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Active Member
I guess someone is going to have to try it and see if wide open throttle will stop it from starting. That's how you started a flood (gas) car. So it would seem to carry over to modern cars.
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It's called clear flood mode. Pretty sure my 2013 RTL manual refers to that....
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by 2dogs
"The computer and fuel injection system, plus ignition are smart enough on these modern vehicles to know better and it is pretty obvious the OP understands this.
"Are you sure about this PMK? After rereading the OP's question I'm not so sure he understands. His post begins with "Start up after storage." and ends with "Just curious." I know you know what you're talking about but I'm not sure the OP does or he wouldn't have ask the question. Hopefully he'll respond and set us all straight. LOL
Maybe some people read it one way and some of us another way. I read it word for word and understood what he wrote quite clearly. His focus is preoiling the engine prior to starting after a long storage period AND he wants to use the wide open throttle to allow the engine to crank without starting. He clearly stated wide open throttle and wanting to lube the engine. As for being curious, he is curious if others do this or not, not if it works or will not work.
Seems pretty basic wording and clear to me, guess I am reading exactly what he wrote and not overthinking it or running off on tangents. But, whatever, not losing any sleep over the replies or if he tries it.
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Originally Posted by PMK
Maybe some people read it one way and some of us another way. I read it word for word and understood what he wrote quite clearly. His focus is preoiling the engine prior to starting after a long storage period AND he wants to use the wide open throttle to allow the engine to crank without starting. He clearly stated wide open throttle and wanting to lube the engine. As for being curious, he is curious if others do this or not, not if it works or will not work.
Seems pretty basic wording and clear to me, guess I am reading exactly what he wrote and not overthinking it or running off on tangents. But, whatever, not losing any sleep over the replies or if he tries it.
Thanks PMK. I guess I should have been more clear in my question. I most certainly would not subject a cold, or even hot motor to this method. I was simply wondering if anyone used it to get some lube to the upper end before starting. Sorry for the confusion.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Quartermain
Thanks PMK. I guess I should have been more clear in my question. I most certainly would not subject a cold, or even hot motor to this method. I was simply wondering if anyone used it to get some lube to the upper end before starting. Sorry for the confusion.
Who’s confused...I’m good with it.
As for starting it up after storage, if possible warm the oil if it is still cool / cold. Not imperative, but it will let the oil flow easier.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by 2dogs
"The computer and fuel injection system, plus ignition are smart enough on these modern vehicles to know better and it is pretty obvious the OP understands this.
"Are you sure about this PMK? After rereading the OP's question I'm not so sure he understands. His post begins with "Start up after storage." and ends with "Just curious." I know you know what you're talking about but I'm not sure the OP does or he wouldn't have ask the question. Hopefully he'll respond and set us all straight. LOL
PMK may not be sure but I am. I am not sure on this but I believe I read this in the user's manual. Your Spyder will not start if you give it wide open throttle. I use this system all the time to make sure there is oil pressure after an oil change or after a long lay over. It only takes about 10-20 seconds for the light to go out. I then stop, close throttle and start as normal. Works
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
PMK may not be sure but I am. I am not sure on this but I believe I read this in the user's manual. Your Spyder will not start if you give it wide open throttle. I use this system all the time to make sure there is oil pressure after an oil change or after a long lay over. It only takes about 10-20 seconds for the light to go out. I then stop, close throttle and start as normal. Works
I have read the same thing. Did a quick search of the manual and could not find it.
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I believe he may be referring to this method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42EiYXanHHk
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I don't see any reason to.
Most folks on the board run some kind of synthetic oil. In addition to flowing quickly at cold temps, if the oil has any ester in it, it will stick to anything it touches.
I mentioned Ketjenlube in another post on the board. It's an ester that is wet clutch safe.
Especially for long term storage (6 months or more) I like to add about 1 ounce per quart.
May be hard to believe, but conventional oils (group I and II) with high levels of ZDDP cling better than hydro-cracked pseudo-synthetics. The old mechanics saying of using a conventional oil for storage wasn't just a myth, there is a level of truth in it. But all oils, (even the popular Rotella) will have a percentage of group II oils present that will stick around. They are present as additive carriers for the group III oils present.
All modern oils will have rust prevention additives present in the oil. Race oils generally have some "tacky" additives for cling.
In the majority of cases, you are good to go with cranking, and letting the Spyder start.
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I am not sure where I read it, but the ignition will not fire with the throttle at wide open. I verified this and have been using the technique in conjunction with oil changes. I do this because after a complete oil and filter change, my bike would clatter upon startup. This technique cured that.
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What is this storage thing you speak of? Here in AZ no such thing..LOL
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