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  1. #1
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    Default 28k mile service on 2014 RT

    In addition to the normal engine oil and filter change (which I have done and can do again), the BRP Maintenance Schedule calls for;

    1. Replace HCM oil filter
    2. Replace canister pre-filter
    3. Replace engine coolant
    4. Replace spark plug

    Are any of these difficult to accomplish? Please link to YouTube videos, if any. Thanks.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-23-2020 at 11:03 AM. Reason: miile
    2014 RTL Platinum


  2. #2
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    Could someone with access please fix the spelling error on my subject line? Thanks.
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    The spark plug change is the difficult job. IdahoMtnSpyder did an excellent job explaining it in this post: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ght=spark+plug. FWIW, if you remove the frunk, which makes the job much easier, do not start the engine until you have reinstalled the frunk and all the electrical connections. If you do, the engine will throw a couple of codes regarding the engine ambient air temperature sensor. The code will disappear once you reconnect all the wiring.
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    In addition to the normal engine oil and filter change (which I have done and can do again), the BRP Maintenance Schedule calls for;

    1. Replace HCM oil filter
    2. Replace canister pre-filter
    3. Replace engine coolant
    4. Replace spark plug

    Are any of these difficult to accomplish? Please link to YouTube videos, if any. Thanks.
    Can someone tell me what is meant by the 'canister pre-filter? Thanks
    2014 RTL Platinum


  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Can someone tell me what is meant by the 'canister pre-filter? Thanks
    Could this be the EVAP canister filter?
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Could this be the EVAP canister filter?
    I don't know. I took it from the BRP scheduled maintenance page.
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  7. #7
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    I believe this may be what you are looking for. Number 27 and 27a.
    https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a...4f/fuel-system

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    It's on the rear of the bike behind the left side bag mounted to the frame. Evap canister

    Haven't done my plugs yet and now have 34k on the bike. Did do everything else do far.

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    Some of this maintenance stuff is over kill. Never the less use your own judgment. Plugs & wires, trans filter, coolant, brake fluid and air filter these days last much longer than yesterday. Other posters here have concurred. These items will likely out last your brake pads and most assuredly your OEM rear tire. When I did my 28k service/inspection most everything was clean as a pin and showed no signs of deterioration. The 9k oil/filter change is done by most owners, but remember oil doesn’t wear out, it becomes contaminated. Used oil is cleaned/re-refined and used for many purposes including motor oil. Of course, we spyder owners shear down our oil because it goes through the transmission. It shears down to about 20w and remains there for the remainder of its use. 9k miles on quality synthetic oils may only be half life if the filter is changed often. (I’ve never ran it and tested it beyond 9k.) However, a matter of caution, always follow your manufactures maintenance requirements so as not to invalidate your warrantee. After that, send in your ECM and get a stage 2 upgrade and it will be a new ride all over again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    I believe this may be what you are looking for. Number 27 and 27a.
    https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a...4f/fuel-system
    That's probably it. Thanks.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    That's probably it. Thanks.
    No, Pete, Parts 27 and 27a in the parts shark link are the engine fuel filter/fuel filter assembly. The fuel filter assembly includes the fuel filter and its two appropriately sized Oetiker clamps and you can see the assembly is cheaper than the filter and Oetiker clamps sold individually.

    The emissions pre-filter, Air Filter Evaporative emission component is Item #60 in the link diagram, PN 709000524, and its Oetiker clamp is Item 17, PN 293650186.

    FWIW, I found when I replaced the pre-filter during my 28K service the Tuflock Plastic Phillips screws, PN414745900, fit kind of sloppy in their holes so I replaced them with new ones when I did the pre-filter again at the 56K service.

    Another FWIW, the 2014 maintenance schedule calls for the fuel filter to be replaced at 19K; however, later model years beginning with MY 2016 extended the change interval to 28K or five years, whichever comes first. When I pointed this our to the very helpful folks at BRPCare, including telling them that the part numbers for both MYs were the same and asked for clarification, they told me to ask my dealer. Big help, huh! I asked the dealership and they said to change the fuel filter at 28K intervals which makes good sense since one is doing all the other big things at that interval. I've noticed no difference in engine performance at the 28K interval -- two changes worth.
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    Its # 60 for the evap canister on the link that was posted.

    All it was is a plastic housing with a black charcoal filter in it..Mine was still good but changed it anyway.

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    What is the HCM filter? Kind of pricey at $96.
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    Transmission filter

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    I think you missed fuel and air filters in the list for 28k.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    What is the HCM filter? Kind of pricey at $96.
    Hydraulic Control Module. And they are expensive! When you figure it up. The cost is nearly the exact same amount for 1 SE6 Transmission filter as the number of transmission filters needed (4,500 mile service interval) for the SE5 at 28k. Amazing how that works out!

    Though I use it too. 'Transmission Filter' is a misnomer. The transmission itself is lubricated by the same oil that runs through the engine oil filter. The HCM filters only that oil going to the hydraulic shifting mechanism. Which, once you know what HCM stands for, makes perfect sense!

    And the 1330's have no spark plug wires, as such. They have simple 12v wires going to the coil which connects directly to the spark plug. No need for high voltage wires as in the past.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-10-2020 at 02:22 PM.
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  17. #17
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    i've said it b4; the spark plugs (bougies) were PERFECT when i pulled mine at 44,000 miles on my 1st F3...
    it took me 2 days, 5 hrs each day, to complete the job of changing 3 plugs (bougies)... keep in mind that these plugs (bougies) are 'irridium' plugs, and can last for well over 100,000 miles of operation in most all vehicles...
    NOTE: AND A VERY IMPORTANT NOTE; HAVE A GAS FILTER HANDY WHEN CHANGING THE PLUGS.... otherwise, you'll again need to pull the entire top off your ride to change it at a later time....
    best of luck....
    SPYD3R MAN DAN

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    I think you missed fuel and air filters in the list for 28k.
    The air filter was changed at the 20k mile service. Good idea on the fuel filter. Thanks.
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  19. #19
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Pete, the 2014 operator's guide calls for the fuel filter to be changed at 19K or 5 years, whichever comes first. In MY 2016 BRP moved it out to 28K.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Pete, the 2014 operator's guide calls for the fuel filter to be changed at 19K or 5 years, whichever comes first. In MY 2016 BRP moved it out to 28K.
    Yes, I see that in my 2014 guide. I think I'll change that to 28k. Thanks
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I missed it at 19K, did it at 23 and last at 56. Noticed no difference in performance or mpg at extended distance.
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  22. #22
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    It's #60. I changed it on our F3L.
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  23. #23
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    Regarding part #60. Don't buy a new one, just clean the existing one. It's only a single screw that holds the plastic housing together, and as stated above there's only a small filter element inside. It can be cleaned and reassembled very easily at no cost.

    I bought a new one before I started the job and once I got there I realized it could be cleaned and didn't need to be replaced. And, for the record, when I pulled mine apart at about 30k miles it was very dirty and was in need of servicing or replacement. The air draw tube is right next to the rear tire and seems to attract road debris, which is why I think BRP includes it in their maintenance schedule.

    As far as spark plugs go: many people have reported their plugs look great at the 28k mile service. I did mine at the 36k mile mark and they were noticeably worn and there was a minor degradation in performance. I believe that with the relatively high performance of the ACE 1330 engine (compared to an automobile) iridium spark plugs won't last 100k miles as we all would think, so I'd recommend doing it.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Pete, the 2014 operator's guide calls for the fuel filter to be changed at 19K or 5 years, whichever comes first. In MY 2016 BRP moved it out to 28K.
    Do you know where I can buy it online? BajaRon doesn't carry it. Thanks.
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  25. #25
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    You can buy either the fuel filter assembly that includes two Oetiker Clamps, PN 219800056, $16.49, from BRP or Cheap Cycle parts, both online, but you must have Oetiker Clamp pliers to properly install. Or you could buy the fuel filter alone, BRP PN 704000100, $17.49, and use two fuel injector system clamps from an auto parts store using their cross reference table for the fuel filter but do not use a plastic filter. Cheap Cycle Parts has a different PN for the filter alone, 513033719, don't know why. I note that BRP lists the fuel filter assembly or fuel filter alone through MY 2018 with the same PNs.
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