Power steering question

[ARNIE R]

If the power steering unit was starting to malfunction, would it throw any codes?

Yesterday, had been out riding about 5 hours and was getting tired, so I started off home. It was also a somewhat windy day.

A few of my turns felt very “hard”, about 5 or 6 during the hour ride home. Similar to what happens when you try to steer a car if the engine has suddenly quit.

Tire pressures were correct. Maybe I was overly tired. Won’t be able to ride again for another week as the temps will be in the 30-40’s.

[PMK]

The steering requires a lot of electrical energy. Is there any chance your ride had the rpm low enough that the battery drained.

From reading posts here, it seems that codes from the steering system are kind of random, if any.

Most people ensure a good well charged battery and clean tight electrical connections at the battery, ground points, and steering connections.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If the power steering unit was starting to malfunction, would it throw any codes?

Yesterday, had been out riding about 5 hours and was getting tired, so I started off home. It was also a somewhat windy day.

A few of my turns felt very “hard”, about 5 or 6 during the hour ride home. Similar to what happens when you try to steer a car if the engine has suddenly quit.

Tire pressures were correct. Maybe I was overly tired. Won’t be able to ride again for another week as the temps will be in the 30-40’s.

In my experience with power steering, I learned this ….. the power steering can be FELT at Idle. After reading a number of " power steering issue " posts with lots of differing opinions, I did my own testing. I now own a 14 RT with the 1330 engine. … To test I tried to turn the handlebars ( on my garage smooth concrete floor ) it was somewhat difficult - effort wise, but could be done. ( i'm 72 ) then I started the engine and after a minute tried to do it again …. It was about 60% EASIER to do …. To me this would indicate the system was functioning ….. I don't think the power steering can partially fail …. it either works or it doesn't …. try it yourself - it won't cost anything ….. good luck … Mike

[BajaRon]

As mentioned above, the DPS (Dynamic Power Steering) takes quite a bit of juice to operate. If your battery gets low, it will draw more amps to compensate for the lower voltage which compounds the problem. Also, if you're riding hard in the twisties, that DPS motor can get hot. There is a protective circuit that will shut the motor down to prevent damage. I have had this happen to me on the Dragon. This will give your a temporally inoperative DPS. Try Blueknight's static test to see if your DPS is actually dead or still operational. And you might also check your battery connections at both ends and the condition of your battery as well.

[JP58]

Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. Loose connections will cause loss of power assist. Has happened to both my spyders. No codes ethier. Best to use star lock washers. Helps keep them tight.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. Loose connections will cause loss of power assist. Has happened to both my spyders. No codes ethier. Best to use star lock washers. Helps keep them tight.

on the STAR washers for the Battery terminals …. been recommending them since 09 …. never had one loosen on it's own ….. Mike

[Triumphcycleman]

If your power steering begins to fail it will throw a code, likely DPS failure. Note: without a code it may “derate” if it begins to overheat. This could occur after a hard run thru twisties. Once it cools, all is well

[Big Arm]

When my DPS unit failed on my '08 GS, I got codes P0551 and P0552.

[Motorcycledave]

See below

If the power steering unit was starting to malfunction, would it throw any codes?


When I started having trouble with mine the DPS did not display any codes, however steering got hard and
while going down the road in a straight line the DPS kept yanking the wheels to the right with the thing jerking
the bars like that I took it in to the dealer and was informed that the DPS Dynamic Power Steering unit was junk
AND out of warranty. They wanted $1600 to replace it.... ouch I bitched and moaned and got them down to $1300
your Spyder is not safe to ride with that steering unit not working correctly.
BRP had a recall on the DPS units but the one in mine had already been replaced under warranty before I got it,
it had 600 miles when I got it it now has 20K .... they said to bad they will not replace a replaced unit.
Good Luck




A few of my turns felt very “hard”, about 5 or 6 during the hour ride home. Similar to what happens when you try to steer a car if the engine has suddenly quit.

Tire pressures were correct. Maybe I was overly tired. Won’t be able to ride again for another week as the temps will be in the 30-40’s.

[Motorcycledave]

The steering requires a lot of electrical energy. Is there any chance your ride had the rpm low enough that the battery drained.

From reading posts here, it seems that codes from the steering system are kind of random, if any.

Most people ensure a good well charged battery and clean tight electrical connections at the battery, ground points, and steering connections.

BRP had a recall on the DPS units

[BajaRon]

BRP had a recall on the DPS units

True. 2008 for sure and maybe 2009 as well. I got 2 replacements before that problem was fixed. Bad design on the original models. Very expensive mistake for BRP I would say. That and the bad oil filters might have been the 2 most expensive issues on the Spyders.

[ARNIE R]

Well, I feel better after the many comments. I’ll give everything a test and looking at as soon as possible. Thanks all.

[Grandpot]

Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. Loose connections will cause loss of power assist. Has happened to both my spyders. No codes ethier. Best to use star lock washers. Helps keep them tight.

What he said! Also, Mike's suggestion of a star washer is good.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

BRP had a recall on the DPS units

2013s had a lot of failures but I don't remember if there was a recall. One characteristic of a failing DPS that you may or may not feel is in hard curves. When the one in 2013 was failing as I was coming off the Interstate in a loop exit I had to steer hard, but every once in awhile the DPS would kick in and steering eased up so much I almost would go off the roadway. Kind of unnerving to say the least.

[askitee]

Not long after I bought my 2017 RTL new I was travelling on an expressway late one night and the DPS threw an alarm, and power steering stopped working. At that stage I didn't know about the codes, but did see the Warning on screen and an "Engine" icon on screen.

When I took it to the dealership they reported Buds had detected an issue with the DPS, but it had reset itself.

This being said, the dealership weren't that open in their information sharing so it could be Bulls Excrement

[PMK]

What he said! Also, Mike's suggestion of a star washer is good.

As an idea, you and others should post the stack up of the retaining hardware onto the battery terminal. To clarify, you have the battery post, what goes on next, next, next etc.

One downside of the star lockwasher in a high amperage circuit is the star washers inability to carry the high loads. Each finger of the star washer limits current flow compared to flat washers making full contact with the surface.

In some instances, they will install a star lockwasher between the terminal connections and a ground point to get a better bite into a conductive surface. Not saying this is your method.

[Mikey]

As an idea, you and others should post the stack up of the retaining hardware onto the battery terminal. To clarify, you have the battery post, what goes on next, next, next etc.

One downside of the star lockwasher in a high amperage circuit is the star washers inability to carry the high loads. Each finger of the star washer limits current flow compared to flat washers making full contact with the surface.

In that case why would you not use a flat and star you are trying to jam the nut, right then you would have a full bearing surface, and lock the nut up!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

As an idea, you and others should post the stack up of the retaining hardware onto the battery terminal. To clarify, you have the battery post, what goes on next, next, next etc.

One downside of the star lockwasher in a high amperage circuit is the star washers inability to carry the high loads. Each finger of the star washer limits current flow compared to flat washers making full contact with the surface.

In some instances, they will install a star lockwasher between the terminal connections and a ground point to get a better bite into a conductive surface. Not saying this is your method.

Interesting about surface conductivity issues ….. I have well over 100,000 mi. using only a Star Washer ( w/outside teeth ). I haven't found any issues with this arrangement ……. maybe I'm the luck..... maybe I' just luckey ...…..Mike

[BajaRon]

As an idea, you and others should post the stack up of the retaining hardware onto the battery terminal. To clarify, you have the battery post, what goes on next, next, next etc.

One downside of the star lockwasher in a high amperage circuit is the star washers inability to carry the high loads. Each finger of the star washer limits current flow compared to flat washers making full contact with the surface.

In some instances, they will install a star lockwasher between the terminal connections and a ground point to get a better bite into a conductive surface. Not saying this is your method.

I don't use a star washer on my battery connections. But I'm not opposed to it as it has advantages which Blueknight rightly champions.

The star washer always goes against the object you do not want to turn. Which in this case, is the Nut and or Bolt. As for conductivity. The star washer gets crushed flat (or it should). This means you get full contact with not just the fingers, but the entire flat surface as well. But because the fingers are designed to dig into the 2 surfaces they touch. You also get an anti-twist function as well.

[PMK]

Interesting about surface conductivity issues ….. I have well over 100,000 mi. using only a Star Washer ( w/outside teeth ). I haven't found any issues with this arrangement ……. maybe I'm the luck..... maybe I' just luckey ...…..Mike

Where did you place the star washer? Under the bolt head? Between the battery post and wire terminal? As I asked, if the battery post is the base, what was the stack up on top of the battery post. If you merely used the star washer as only a lock washer, then, certainly it will help keep the bolt from loosening.

If you positioned the star washer between the battery post and wire terminal, that prevents the terminal from moving in any way, including loosening the entire assembly, even if a lock washer is used.

I have seen the star washer used as I described in both methods.

[iridenow]

If the power steering unit was starting to malfunction, would it throw any codes?

Yesterday, had been out riding about 5 hours and was getting tired, so I started off home. It was also a somewhat windy day.

A few of my turns felt very “hard”, about 5 or 6 during the hour ride home. Similar to what happens when you try to steer a car if the engine has suddenly quit.

Tire pressures were correct. Maybe I was overly tired. Won’t be able to ride again for another week as the temps will be in the 30-40’s.

I actually had this happen the other day. I got the big orange CHECK DPS, followed by LIMP HOME MODE. I'm waiting on the service guys to come pick it up

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Where did you place the star washer? Under the bolt head? Between the battery post and wire terminal? As I asked, if the battery post is the base, what was the stack up on top of the battery post. If you merely used the star washer as only a lock washer, then, certainly it will help keep the bolt from loosening.

If you positioned the star washer between the battery post and wire terminal, that prevents the terminal from moving in any way, including loosening the entire assembly, even if a lock washer is used.

I have seen the star washer used as I described in both methods.

Ron answered your post for me …. ….. that's how I do it ….. Mike

[PMK]

Ron answered your post for me …. ….. that's how I do it ….. Mike

I am thinking it may be best to drill bolt heads for the battery connections. Tighten them securely, then safety wire them together to prevent any loosening.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am thinking it may be best to drill bolt heads for the battery connections. Tighten them securely, then safety wire them together to prevent any loosening.

… as in racing that would be BEST ….. however what I do has worked for over 100,000 mi. and that's good enough for me ….. Question …. how many people here have the ability and tools necessary to do the safety wire thing ???? ………. Mike

[ARNIE R]

Had a second ride on Monday and experienced the same condition for about an hour after starting off. It was very random and sporadic and could be felt occurring during a long turn, almost like an on and off switch. Then it stopped for about 4 hours. During the last hour going home, it happened once, only this time it was during a quick lane change, and I had to really turn the bars very hard.

Today, I pulled off the battery cover to check the terminal connections and discovered that I could twist the positive cable and bolt with my hand. Took everything loose, cleaned the surfaces, added di-electric grease and a lock washer and bolted everything back up. Took another 5 hour ride today and did not experience any incidents. So, hopefully, the battery connection was the culprit - fingers crossed! Thanks all for the battery suggestion.

Now, if I could just get rid of the hyper-flash issue that popped up with the new TricLed front turn signals.........