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Very Active Member
My first 60 mile ride: pro and con observations
I played hookey from work this afternoon and took my first 60+ mile ride to check out a military vehicle show. I took the Interstate to get there and back-roads on the way home.
This was also my first ride with a full-face helmet. I was surprised to find it added about 10 mph to my speed. Being a new rider, the buffeting from my half-helmet kind of limited my speed to ~75 mph. With my new HJC CL-SP, I feel like a bullet. At one point I looked down and was surprised to see I was going 85. Another benefit of the helmet was that I can actually hear the engine now.
As I was getting ready to leave the show, I saw my temp tag was hanging crooked because I lost one of the plastic screws the dealer used to put it on. I scrounged some string to tie it on and accidently bumped the tail light. I was surprised to find it was very loose. Looking under the fender, both nuts were about to come off. Had I not seen it then, I'm confident the light would have come off on the way home.
I hand-tightened the nuts as best I could and then headed home. I took a scenic route that followed a river. Since I wear glasses, I played around with the visor to see the results of different positions. I was surprised to find the half-open position resulted in more air than the full-open position.
Another thing I noticed was that I found myself sitting upright and stretching at each stoplight. I'm definitely going to have to evaluate some risers to get into a more natural sitting position.
I'm heading outside now to see if the wrenches in the Spyder tool kit will take care of the tail light.
Later,
Joe
Last edited by ArmyJoe; 07-25-2009 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: spelling
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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Very Active Member
Correction... I don't see any wires, so it looks like that's a reflector and not a light.
And I need to find a 8mm open-ended wrench.
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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PhotoShop Master
Originally Posted by Capt John
Another thing I noticed was that I found myself sitting upright and stretching at each stoplight. I'm definitely going to have to evaluate some risers to get into a more natural sitting position.
Check out ESI/NMN on the home page. He has risers and they make a real difference. Along with highway mounts and a seat change. They make for some very comfortable and enjoyable rydes.
THOSE WHO LIVE BY THE SWORD DIE BY THE SWORD... BUT...THOSE WHO MASTER THE SWORD SURVIVE BY THE SWORD....
Rev. J. Proctor
reverendproctor.com
HAPPY SPYDER OWNER
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Registered Users
welcome
Don't know how tall you are, but I had to go the full 4" route - but I prefer the Kwelmetal road peg supports - they are solid & strong (just my $0.02)
You should also consider the mirror extensions - well worth the bucks.
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Be sure to drop a little loctite on the bolts before you tighten the nuts, otherwise risk having them vibrate off.
Happy Spyder Owner - 2008 Millennium Yellow PE #2475
HID lights, fog lights, Hindle exhaust, heated grips, anti-vibe bars, passenger extension pegs, BRP custom seat, seat cowl, sport rack/backrest, BRP saddlebags, CHAD black/smoke windshield, outdoor cover, Garmin Quest GPS, Rear axel billets.
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Originally Posted by Capt John
Another thing I noticed was that I found myself sitting upright and stretching at each stoplight. I'm definitely going to have to evaluate some risers to get into a more natural sitting position.
Check out ESI/NMN on the home page. He has risers and they make a real difference. Along with highway mounts and a seat change. They make for some very comfortable and enjoyable rydes.
I would not discount the HeliBar solution -- as I have it and absolutely love it.
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Registered Users
The stock seat sucks and there are several good alternatives. The NMN (a.k.a. ESI) risers are awesome. I'm sure the other options are good as well, but I love my NMN risers.
Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...
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Registered Users
All in All . . . .
. . . . sounds like a great ride.
Though, there is a wire running to that rear reflector unit - it powers the light that illuminates the license plate. There is a plastic shield on the bottom of the rear fender that the wire runs under.
One suggestion. Use a detailer on your Spyder and clean it up - even if it is new. ( I use Armor All Ultra Shine detailer, but use whatever you like ) By cleaning it, you will also be inspecting it and noticing all sorts of things and noticing things that "change" and require your attention. It is a good habit to get into.
Enjoy,
Tom
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Tom in NM
One suggestion. Use a detailer on your Spyder and clean it up - even if it is new. ( I use Armor All Ultra Shine detailer, but use whatever you like ) By cleaning it, you will also be inspecting it and noticing all sorts of things and noticing things that "change" and require your attention. It is a good habit to get into.
Thanks for the tip. I was noticing all the bugs on the hood and was planning to go shopping tomorrow for cleaners.
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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Originally Posted by Some Guy
The stock seat sucks and there are several good alternatives. The NMN (a.k.a. ESI) risers are awesome. I'm sure the other options are good as well, but I love my NMN risers.
I've already decided to get the Corbin seat and backrests. The NMN risers look great, but I can't bring myself to do anything permanent to the bike. I'll probably get the 2" or 3" riser from rtsales.org.
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Originally Posted by Tom in NM
. . . . sounds like a great ride.
One suggestion. Use a detailer on your Spyder and clean it up - even if it is new. By cleaning it, you will also be inspecting it and noticing all sorts of things and noticing things that "change" and require your attention. It is a good habit to get into.
Enjoy,
Tom
I probably keep my Spyder too clean. Wiped down and cleaned after every ryde.
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Very Active Member
I don't think this was the license plate light unit as there are not 'bolts' that hold it on. The reflector/light unit holds on with just one screw. Do NOT try to make it stay on using loctite - it will melt the plastic.
Ask me how I found this out....
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Very Active Member
I just went out to double-check. The part that came loose is the license plate light / reflector. On my bike it's held on with two 8mm nuts on the inside of the fender.
2009 Yellow SM5 with BRP R35 saddlebags, CHAD windshield, ESI Up & Out Mirror Extensions, ESI 4" Handlebar Risers, Hindle muffler, Green Filter, Juice Box Pro, Throttlemeister, Crampbuster, Cortech Sport Tailbag, trunk liner, trunk spring, 12V trunk outlet, Eastern Beaver PC8 Fuse Panel, and two dashboard Powerlet outlets.
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The user formerly known as GIJoe
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Blazing Member
Originally Posted by GIJoe
I've already decided to get the Corbin seat and backrests. The NMN risers look great, but I can't bring myself to do anything permanent to the bike. I'll probably get the 2" or 3" riser from rtsales.org.
Got the Corbin seats and love them . If you plan on riding 2-up you MUST get the passenger seat altered from stock, as the stock Corbin seat has the passenger sliding forward. Either have them take some of the foam out of the rear of the seat or add some to the front of the seat. Just the passenger seat as you will find the drivers seat most comfortable after about 1500 miles. Also found drivers backrest useless as you can't lean back far enough to make contact with it ( even with NMN risers installed) and makes it difficult for both passenger and driver to mount. Also so much more adjustment with NMN risers ( up and back adjustments as apposed to just up.)and i think way easier install. This is just my 3 cents worth and hope it helps.
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Originally Posted by Dragonrider
welcome
You should also consider the mirror extensions - well worth the bucks.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Firefly
I don't think this was the license plate light unit as there are not 'bolts' that hold it on. The reflector/light unit holds on with just one screw. Do NOT try to make it stay on using loctite - it will melt the plastic.
Ask me how I found this out....
There are two bolts holding on the assembly. One screw holds the cover to the rest.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by emac1
Remove screw & the cover and then use a little bit of silicone on each of the 4 corners before replacing. This will help hold it in place, but can be removed when needing to change the bulb which is underneath. On my 09 SE5 I initally lost all 3 screws from under the tail section on the right, then the bolt assembly holding the Hindle exhaust fell off causing the muffler to drop down, then the little license plate light cover fell off next. I brought it all to the attention of my dealer with my concerns that the wheels would be falling off next and asked if we need to wrench every nut and bolt on the Spyder before riding it. He said in an updated owner's manual there will be verbage about checking bolts, nuts and screws 'frequently' as they have been known to come loose over time due to the amount of vibration that occurs. For the amount of money spent (more than I spent on my car!) I would expect the Spyder to be more road worth than this! I sure as hell never have had to check and tighten nuts/bolts/screws on any car I've bought, nor has my husband or brothers had to do this on their HD's or Honda's they have owned. Either my Spyder was a Monday (hangover) Spyder or a Friday (FO day) Spyder. Has anyone else had nuts/bolts/screws/parts falling off their Spyder with less than 2k on it?
The long swing arm and light weight on the back of our Spyders tends to make for a lot of bolt loosening action back there. Though you seem to have had a bigger dose of parts dropping off than most it is not uncommon for things to get loose in the back.
I have put Nylock nuts on my licenses plate cover and a little silicone on bolt threads that have gotten loose. No problems since.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by emac1
Remove screw & the cover and then use a little bit of silicone on each of the 4 corners before replacing. This will help hold it in place, but can be removed when needing to change the bulb which is underneath. On my 09 SE5 I initally lost all 3 screws from under the tail section on the right, then the bolt assembly holding the Hindle exhaust fell off causing the muffler to drop down, then the little license plate light cover fell off next. I brought it all to the attention of my dealer with my concerns that the wheels would be falling off next and asked if we need to wrench every nut and bolt on the Spyder before riding it. He said in an updated owner's manual there will be verbage about checking bolts, nuts and screws 'frequently' as they have been known to come loose over time due to the amount of vibration that occurs. For the amount of money spent (more than I spent on my car!) I would expect the Spyder to be more road worth than this! I sure as hell never have had to check and tighten nuts/bolts/screws on any car I've bought, nor has my husband or brothers had to do this on their HD's or Honda's they have owned. Either my Spyder was a Monday (hangover) Spyder or a Friday (FO day) Spyder. Has anyone else had nuts/bolts/screws/parts falling off their Spyder with less than 2k on it?
I have ridden bikes for over 50 years, and this statement shocks me! Motorcycles are renowned for the vibration that loosens fasteners, and most manufacturers list checking the tightness as a standard periodic maintenance procedure. BRP did not explain this well enough, but it is considered a normal part of "Inspection." If your dealer serviced this machine, hey did not do this thoroughly enough, and should have known better. Locking compounds, lock washers, and other remedies will only go so far to keep fasteners in place on a motorcycle...they need to be checked for tightness regularly! BRP is obviously going to emphasize this and specifically include it in their maintenance schedule, from what you have said. In the meantime, please be aware that it is a necessity with motorcycles! Your husband was apparently lucky with his HDs and Hondas. This is not a car! There is a reason all motorcycles come with a toolkit, while cars do not.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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