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engine surges in 1st or rev on start up
2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?
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Very Active Member
Did you have your transmission filter replaced at 28,000 miles?
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Originally Posted by bikerjays
2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?
It's normal for many of us. If it's not been happening to you so far, you've been lucky. If you manage to get it fixed, we'd like to know how!
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
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Originally Posted by bikerjays
2015 rts automatic. first start up of the day when bike put in rev or 1st and throttle added the the bike surges initially for the first few 100 feet. 42K miles on the bike and fuel filter has been changed. Any suggestions?
Try adding fuel additive like star-tron or sea foam.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Have you tried changing the rubbery vacuum hoses over to silicone hoses, and spending more time warming the Spyder up before ryding off?!
Not sure if it'll fix it or not, but it can't hurt to give both of those a try!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
My 2018 RTL SE6 does exactly the same thing. It quits completely as soon as any warmth gets the oil thinned out. It has to do with the clutch release not working smoothly due to cold oil (so they said). The surging (on mine) is caused not by a throttle/fuel issue, but by the clutch grabbing and releasing causing the RPM's to fluctuate. When parking I back my Spyder up a ramp into a narrow slot in the garage, and it is a nightmare with the cold engine. If I have to put it away cold I will usually allow it to idle for 5-10 minutes just because it surges so bad and may cause me to crash. A little bit of warmth and all is well again. Does this sound like your problem?
h0gr1der
2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock*360° LED Headlights & Foglights*Progressive front fender turn signals
States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by h0gr1der
My 2018 RTL SE6 does exactly the same thing. It quits completely as soon as any warmth gets the oil thinned out. It has to do with the clutch release not working smoothly due to cold oil (so they said). The surging (on mine) is caused not by a throttle/fuel issue, but by the clutch grabbing and releasing causing the RPM's to fluctuate. When parking I back my Spyder up a ramp into a narrow slot in the garage, and it is a nightmare with the cold engine. If I have to put it away cold I will usually allow it to idle for 5-10 minutes just because it surges so bad and may cause me to crash. A little bit of warmth and all is well again. Does this sound like your problem?
That's how our 2016 F3L acts when it's cold. Once it's a little warm it goes away. I don't consider it a problem.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
My 2016 F3T has done this since the first day and 45,000 miles later no problems at all, so I just
think it's normal. After it gets warmed up it's gone.
Toby
2020 RTL
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Have you tried changing the rubbery vacuum hoses over to silicone hoses, and spending more time warming the Spyder up before ryding off?!
Not sure if it'll fix it or not, but it can't hurt to give both of those a try!
Warming up makes sense, 1330 engines do not have the hoses you mentioned.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
As everyone has mentioned. It is the computer (not doing such a good job), compensating for a cold engine with a richer fuel mixture. I guess, since this is a short period transition. BRP didn't put a lot of effort into this cycle. Another reason it's a very good idea to start your Spyder, let it idle for 30 seconds or so to get oil circulating everywhere, then ride easy until coolant temps come up. You engine will last longer, your oil will run cleaner, and you will be much happier!
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Very Active Member
One other item I've read on this condition is to accelerate more aggressively during this and it will minimize the surging. I do this and it helps, a firm acceleration makes the clutch engage more completely at higher RPM's.
h0gr1der
2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock*360° LED Headlights & Foglights*Progressive front fender turn signals
States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.
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yes, the filter was replaced at 30k miles
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I think you may be correct about the clutch. I let the bike warm up for about 30 sec but this does not seem to help. I will investigate how to increase the clutch pressure.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bikerjays
I think you may be correct about the clutch. I let the bike warm up for about 30 sec but this does not seem to help. I will investigate how to increase the clutch pressure.
As far as I was told there is no adjustment. The whole shooting match is a computer controlled electro-hydraulic circuit. There may be some tune-ability in the programming, but the shop said it couldn't or wouldn't be adjusted. Let us know if you find out anything.
h0gr1der
2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock*360° LED Headlights & Foglights*Progressive front fender turn signals
States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by h0gr1der
As far as I was told there is no adjustment. The whole shooting match is a computer controlled electro-hydraulic circuit. There may be some tune-ability in the programming, but the shop said it couldn't or wouldn't be adjusted. Let us know if you find out anything.
Have a friend with BUDS hook it up.
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