Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Help with RPM's

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    24
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Help with RPM's

    I've read many of the posts on this forum and have learned quite alot about can am products. One particular post dealts with proper break in procedures for new spyders. Many said to take it easy for the first few hundred miles but I did read one very different post from a so called expert motorcycle engineer. He said a new motorcycle should be ridden hard at first so that the pistons, rings and seals set fully within the cylinder walls. This made a lot of sense to me.
    Today I decided to raise the RPM's higher on my ride today. Currently I have 230 miles on my new F3 (base model). As I rode a few miles today, I had the opportunity to safely raise the RPM's. I went from 1st through 4th gears changing each one at 6200 - 6500 RPM's. What is the max RPM's on my base model F3?
    Im assuming it starts redlining at 8000 rpm's and max out at 10,000 rpm's but im not sure. My spyder has the 4.5 inch digital screen and all it displays is what rpm's the bike is currently running.
    Any suggestions from anyone on how much to raise the rpm's so the motor breaks in properly?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    853
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    The most important part of breaking in is continually vary the revs. No long stretches in one speed in one gear. Allow the engine to warm a few minutes while you put on your gear. Never hit the starter on a cold engine and take off.
    Using those higher revs for shifting is OK, but don't keep it up there for more than a shift and you'll be doing fine.
    So a break in is a combination of those two philosophies.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Florida Swamp
    Posts
    644
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    I don't know which engine you have, but it will not rev 10,000 RPMs. If it is the 1330, it is going to be bouncing off the rev limiter at 8,100. You need to read the owner's manual. It does not need to be run up anywhere near the red line for break in.

  4. #4
    Active Member troop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Stoughton, WI
    Posts
    316
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    In addition to varying your rpms, down shift to allow engine braking. This also helps load your rings.
    2019 F3-S SE6
    --------------------------------
    Madstad 14" dark gray/20" light gray windshields
    TricLED aux lights/inner front fender aux lights
    Spyderlovers USB/12V powerport
    Baldwin cat delete pipe
    K&N air filter/Drilled
    Big Bike Parts rider backrest
    Shad luggage/mounts
    Factory heated grips
    Two up shock
    H4 LED headlight bulbs
    Detachable passenger seat storage box
    ** Winter Upgrades Coming **
    1.) Ride and Handling: Spyder****** swaybar (ordered/delivered) / Vredestein Q5 front tires (ordered/delivered)
    2.) Performance: Dynojet PV3 (ordered/delivered)
    3.) Comfort: Spyder****** Highway Pegs (purchased/delivered) / Long reach bars (installed)/Homemade floorboards (in production)
    4.) Safety: TricLed Run/Brake/Turn rear tail light strip (ordered/delivered) / Lower frunk lip LED light strip (ordered/delivered)

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    4,462
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I’ve had no problem just riding normally to the first oil change.
    2016 F3 Limited
    2019 Ryker Rally
    2014 Suzuki V Strom 650

  6. #6
    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    35,293
    Spyder Garage
    7

    Default

    The 1330 likes to be driven in the 3500-4000 rpm range. You will find seemless shifts at the 3500 point. I let it downshift on its own 98% of the time.

    The others have given good advice. Take it easy the first 350 or so to get the brakes and new tires set in. Vary the speeds at other times. You don't need all six gears all the time. I keep mine in 3rd all the way up to fifty. Over 60 is when 6th comes in.

    I have over 1000 miles on mine now and have not seen the need to run it beyond 5500 rpms. I believe the tach on my 2014 (1330) RT...shows the red line at around 7,000.

    The V twins (998's) liked higher rpms and liked to be shifted and kept in the 5500 plus ranges.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 01-13-2020 at 11:52 AM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium). 6 Spyders, 11 years, 156,205 miles


  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    10,935
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There are those who make a compelling case for a WOT break in process. However, there are a number of things that are true of this very controversial method that do not apply to your Spyder. One of which is that this process is started right off the bat. Your Spyder engine has been run 'Driven' (no fuel or combustion) for some time. And then run stand alone, started up with its own ignition, fuel, etc., for an additional period of time. So there is a certain amount of break in already done when you receive your Spyder brand new.

    Beyond this. The case for following the manufacturer's recommendations is far more compelling than the WOT, hard break-in process. I would highly recommend using the manufacturer's recommendations. And if you know me. I am not shy about disagreeing with the manufacturer when I think it beneficial.

    Here is a good video on this subject. The only caveat I would add is that he is discussing a car engine with a somewhat lower red-line RPM than what our Spyders run. Since your Spyder's red line is a few thousand RPM's higher than the vehicles he is discussing. And it takes more RPM on our Spyder engines to get into the power band and not lug the motor. The appropriate break-in RPM's for your Spyder will also be higher. Check your owner's manual for the correct numbers.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo
    Last edited by BajaRon; 01-11-2020 at 05:55 PM.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  8. #8
    Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Girard OH (summer) Greenville SC (winter)
    Posts
    490
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    With modern alloys and modern machining break in is only a coupla hundred miles. I rode it home like I stole it.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    653
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Some racers break their engines in on the dyno, doing full power runs. One thing I adopted early on is making full power runs on an engine during break in, from about 25% up to about 65% of max RPM range to seat the rings, with a cool down period of varied throttle between. The only reason I won't run it like I stole it from the get go is all the other stuff wearing in together needs a little time to polish out the tiny burrs. I've had good success with this, never had any vehicle broke in like this use oil or not get full mileage on the drive train.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    853
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    You'd wince at what they do at the end of the assembly line. It's not for the weak of heart.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    28
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    You'd wince at what they do at the end of the assembly line. It's not for the weak of heart.
    I am interested, is there more to hear?
    2019 F3-T Liquid Titanium

  12. #12
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    853
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    At the end of the assembly line, the engine is revved dramatically. How high? It varies engine to engine and I can't tell you.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  13. #13
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Glendale, AZ
    Posts
    37
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Talked to a GM engineer (I know different vehicle) his recommendation was to start the vehicle, and as soon as oil pressure is up, to get rolling on easy throttle. Getting it out of cold enrichment as soon as you can helps w/ keeping the fuel from washing down the cylinders. And when cold to keep it under 50-60% throttle. Vary throttle for the first few hundred miles.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    2,810
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    At the end of the assembly line, the engine is revved dramatically. How high? It varies engine to engine and I can't tell you.
    Tend to agree. I saw a motorcycle video of bikes being tested prior to being crated. These were not Spyders but sportbikes. Apparently, they add just enough fuel, fire the engine, a few seconds of oil pressure then rolling road dyno run to validate power to redline, and selecting every gear.

    Yes, certainly not for the faint of heart to see.

    There are many various opinions and methods to obtain a good break in. As others stated, start and build oil pressure before moving. These days and on Spyders that is pretty quick being only a few seconds max. Then ride with care without bogging the engine until warmed up, then ride with varied rpm, reasonably under max rpm for a few hundred miles, again not lugging or bogging the engine, but use mid rpms and large throttle openings to get the rings to seal well, and as mentioned, engine braking is good also.

    I believe BRP states 3000 miles for the first oil change. Many do that with acceptable results. I differ on this and prefer to do an oil and filter change around 50% of the suggested break in mileage. I go back with oem suggested oil and a new oem filter. I retain the filter until a reasonable time indicates the engine is not making metal. After the 3000 miles, I do a second oil and filter change to my preferred oil.

    FWIW, Nikasil cylinders are very hard. The rings are iron and need to bed against the Nikasil, same for the pistons. I am unsure if the 1330 Rotax engine uses moly coated pistons. Very possible but I am not sure. The moly coated piston are now very popular and lessen issues during not only break in but often give very long life in a Nikasil cylinder.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •