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  1. #1
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    Default corbin seat install problem?

    Anyone had a problem installing their corbin seat?

    Even with the bolts loose and the seat pushed all the way back, I can't get it to drop past the plastic up front. (which means that I can't get the pin to drop in)

    Video here:
    http://gallery.me.com/timstorm#10009...&bgcolor=black

    Corbin said they would send UPS to pick it up if I can't get it to go, Just hoping someone might say "oh! you need to flip the widget!"

  2. #2
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    decided to take the front plastic off to investigate a bit further - it still won't latch down.

    It seems to me as though the bumpers under the seat are not allowing it to go down far enough to latch (in addition there may still be a problem with fit with the plastics)

  3. #3
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    had to extend the front pin by 1/4" or so to get to latch.

    Tightened up the bolts, put the plastics back on. Needed to extend the pin a bit more.

    To get it to fit with the plastics on, I had to work the leather around the top plastic. photo below.



    anybody else have similar issue?

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    I think mine originally didn't quite click when lowering it by hand--- but did once I sat on it. Now it drops and clicks in no problem at all.

    Does yours click and lock once you sit on it?

    If so you may just need to give it some break-in time.

  5. #5
    Registered Users TwinPeaks's Avatar
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    Mine went right on, no problem.

  6. #6
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    I had to loosen the pin quite a bit to get it to latch correctly.
    Happy SE5 Owner!!!


    Silver/Black SE5 - Trunk Liner, 1" riser, 12v, Kuryakyn ISO Grips, 5" Kewlmetal Pullback Bars, Kewlmetal Console, Zumo 450, Ipod, Kewlmetal Highway brackets with Wing pegs, Triple Play, Wizard Light LED's, Corbin front/rear saddle with Backrest, Nelson Rigg CL950 Saddlebags with CL800 Tote Bag, CalSci Medium Windshield.

  7. #7
    Registered Users Some Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzneonzz View Post
    I had to loosen the pin quite a bit to get it to latch correctly.
    Same here. Now it works just fine.

    Actually, I had to make it longer, not looser.
    Last edited by Some Guy; 07-24-2009 at 01:06 PM. Reason: clarification

    Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
    Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...

  8. #8
    PhotoShop Master tatt2r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzneonzz View Post
    I had to loosen the pin quite a bit to get it to latch correctly.
    same here but no problem ...i would had taken bolts out of seat hinge and tried to clip seat down if it catches put bolts in might have to elongate holes ..... if it's those legs under seat grind them down ,,,, i had to take seat apart and grind padding out of it ...
    THOSE WHO LIVE BY THE SWORD DIE BY THE SWORD... BUT...THOSE WHO MASTER THE SWORD SURVIVE BY THE SWORD....
    Rev. J. Proctor
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    HAPPY SPYDER OWNER

  9. #9
    Blazing Member fastfraser's Avatar
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    As the seat breaks in it will latch easier and you can lower the length of the catch pin as well as the seat will seem hard as a rock but as it forms to your butt (1500-2000 miles) it will become your seat of choice.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Don in E Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzneonzz View Post
    I had to loosen the pin quite a bit to get it to latch correctly.
    Same here.... both the driver and passenger seat.

    Once adjusted, no issues with the seat..

    don
    Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
    Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6

  11. #11
    Registered Users TonyMac's Avatar
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    I had the same problem. I wound up backing the post out a little to make it reach down an extra 1/4 inch or so. After I had a few miles in the seat, the baseplate began to conform to the shape of the Spyder frame. I can probably tighten that post back up and it would still work ok, I just haven't done it yet. I was worried when I backed it out that there wouldn't be enough threads to hold it into the baseplate of the seat, but it has been ok. It has a locking bolt to keep it from backing out further.

    There were other alignment issues too mainly with the driver seat bolts. The rear ones were at the rear most position while the front were at the front most position and there was no room for adjustment. A bit of wrangling was required especially getting the seat lift piston on, but I got it done.

    I also had an issue with the driver back rest bolt backing out. A lock washer and locktite fixed that.

    For such an expensive seat, I would have expected everything to line up a lot better, but overall, it is a very good seat. I like the final fit and finish and the color on the back rests match my yellow Spyder and look like they were made for it.
    San Antonio, TX - 2014 RT-S Yellow (of course). Added BRP driver backrest to stock seat. Need to solve Blutooth and iPhone 5S integration problems next.

    Former owner of a yellow 2008 Spyder, Cal Sci windshield, Crampbusters, KewlMetal mirror extensions, NoMagicNeon 4" risers, Corbin Seats and dual backrests. Happy Spyder Owner

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Expensive?

    They're only $100 more than the msrp of the brp comfort seat.

    Worth every dime in my opinion.

  13. #13
    Ride Forrest Ride!
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastfraser View Post
    As the seat breaks in it will latch easier and you can lower the length of the catch pin as well as the seat will seem hard as a rock but as it forms to your butt (1500-2000 miles) it will become your seat of choice.
    OH !!!... what aout 12,000 + miles ???

  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    I got rid of the locking pin, I see no need for it myself.

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