Rear tire removal

[Hokiev]

CORRECTION - SHOULD Have indicated 36 mm not 37 mm. Thanks for the correction.

For those who have tackled removal of the rear wheel on a 2015 RTS to replace the tire, did you use a 37mm wrench or socket to remove axle bolt? I would prefer not to have to purchase both if it can be avoided.

Thanks

[PMK]

For those who have tackled removal of the rear wheel on a 2015 RTS to replace the tire, did you use a 37mm wrench or socket to remove axle bolt? I would prefer not to have to purchase both if it can be avoided.

Thanks

Not to nit pick, pretty certain it is 36mm. I use a long breaker bar and socket, on the exhaust side. Forget what I use on the pulley side.

[2dogs]

Yea, 36mm. Socket on one side wrench on the other. Use socket and torque wrench for final tightening. 36mm will also fit oil filter. Different years call for different torque on rear axel.

[pegasus1300]

It is a 36mm. You can use just a socket and ratchet to take it off, but you will need something to hold both sides to get it tightened. If you look on the internet these tools are not expensive, and you will use them. I think I got mine from Summit Racing for the wrench. I already had the socket, a Mac which I bought 45 years ago.

[safecracker]

If you can not find a 36 mm socket or wrench, you can use a 1&7/16 inch wrench, works great. Bruce

[Big Arm]

Buy a 36mm box end / open end wrench and cut in half, problem solved

[Peteoz]

You have a 15RT? That is a couple of years after CanAm upped the torque settings for the axle bolt. It is around 160 ft/lbs. (pre 2013 they were under 100). You’ll need some decent leverage to break it free, and a decent torque wrench to re set it.

Pete

[Peteoz]

Buy a 36mm box end / open end wrench and cut in half, problem solved

Do you have a post 2013 model, Big Arm? Trying to get up to 160 torque is a real issue without a big torque wrench on the post 2013 models.

Pete

[Big Arm]

I have the '08 GS, so have to snug mine real tight

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Get this baby! You can then use a 1/2" 120 lb-ft torque wrench to easily get the 160 lb-ft torque needed for the axle nut.
519nLsFxVeL._AC_SL1200_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Adapte...7579322&sr=8-7

[h0gr1der]

For those who have tackled removal of the rear wheel on a 2015 RTS to replace the tire, did you use a 37mm wrench or socket to remove axle bolt? I would prefer not to have to purchase both if it can be avoided.

Thanks

Mr. Hokiev,

Mine is a 2018 RTL, but the info may be the same, depending if the axle nut is a tight fit to the muffler.

I use a Kobalt Metric 1/2-in Drive 12-point 36mm Shallow Socket P.N. 338135 for $8.98 (Lowes). It's short enough to get between the muffler and the axle nut on my RTL while mounted on a torque wrench. It's 12 point but does the job.

I also use a Sunex 936 36-MM Jumbo Combination Wrench, CR-MO, about $20 on Ebay.

You'll need a 1/2" torque wrench with the appropriate range. Remember, if there is any lubricant on the axle thread you must reduce the torque by the correct amount based on which lubricant is used. These values of torque reduction can be found on this internet. Use at your own risk.

If you don't have one, a Krikit II is a must for setting the belt tension correctly. Removal of the rear wheel, even if done taking all precautions to not change the adjuster setting is a 50/50 proposition (In my estimation). For me, a lot of times, the belt will have to be readjusted to run on the pulley in the proper position after wheel removal in installation.

[PinkRosePetal]

For those who have tackled removal of the rear wheel on a 2015 RTS to replace the tire, did you use a 37mm wrench or socket to remove axle bolt? I would prefer not to have to purchase both if it can be avoided.

Thanks

You'll need both. One to tighten/slacken with and one to hold the opposite end of the axle with.
I'm not sure why buying both is an issue for you but a deep socket is a cheap and common item at a motorfactors store. You could do this as shown below. Buy a deep socket and cut it in half then tack on a handle. I carry them with the Spyder along with an extendable breaker bar, commonly sold for removing wheel nuts, so I can deal with front or rear wheel removal on the road if necessary. They live in the front trunk.

Also, when slackening or tightening the axle, you do not need to squeeze the socket and torque wrench between the silencer and the axle, tighten from the sprocket side and hold the nut still with the wrench. Easy access.

[trikermutha]

I would only torque from the nut side when putting it back together.

[PinkRosePetal]

I would only torque from the nut side when putting it back together.

Why? The forces are equal and opposite except for the tiny drag of the axle.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Why? The forces are equal and opposite except for the tiny drag of the axle.

My experience is that the friction between the head and mating surface is greater than between the nut and mating surface, thus affecting the torque required to tighten the nut. I think it's because of the presence of the washer and any lube on the washer. I do tighten from the head end until the final torquing.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Why? The forces are equal and opposite except for the tiny drag of the axle.

Really, this must be an " other side of the pond thing " ….. every good mechanic I ever knew removed the Nut from the bolt or shaft, unless there was no other way of dis-mantling ….. good luck …. Mike

[trikermutha]

I would agree with post #15 stated . Another would be trying to achieve 166 ft LB from the axle side, IMO would twist that hollow axle at some point. There is less friction on the nut side when torqueing the axle nut.


https://www.boltscience.com/pages/wh...-bolt-head.pdf

[PinkRosePetal]

My experience is that the friction between the head and mating surface is greater than between the nut and mating surface, thus affecting the torque required to tighten the nut. I think it's because of the presence of the washer and any lube on the washer. I do tighten from the head end until the final torquing.

I understand your thinking but in the Spyder axle application it's not really valid. If one end of the axle were completely bone dry and the other end lubricated then there would be a difference in the friction at the axle head compared to the nut/washer interface which may be significant but if you've correctly assembled the axle and its components then there will be a considerable amount of lubricant at the head end of the axle because of the wiping action as the axle is inserted. Failing this, a dab of grease at the head would do the job equally well. If you've correctly aligned the components before the insertion of the axle there will be very little rotational drag.

However, if you feel more comfortable applying the torque to the nut you should continue to do that.

[PinkRosePetal]

I would agree with post #15 stated . Another would be trying to achieve 166 ft LB from the axle side, IMO would twist that hollow axle at some point. There is less friction on the nut side when torqueing the axle nut.


https://www.boltscience.com/pages/wh...-bolt-head.pdf

Perhaps you missed this quote taken from the article you link to:

"...it will not matter whether the bolt head or the nut is tightened.
Some people believe that by tightening the bolt head rather
than the nut it will affect the torsion in bolt shank. The torsion
in the shank of the bolt depends upon the thread friction
torque. For a given finish condition, the thread friction
has some scatter associated with it, but will not depend
on whether the nut or the bolt head is tightened. If the thread
friction torque remains the same, the torsion in the shank
will be the same irrespective of whether the bolt head or the
nut is tightened."


As for shearing the axle shaft, simply not even close.

[PinkRosePetal]

Really, this must be an " other side of the pond thing " ….. every good mechanic I ever knew removed the Nut from the bolt or shaft, unless there was no other way of dis-mantling ….. good luck …. Mike

I think we're discussing tightening the axle nut.

[trikermutha]

Well lets all say its a 36mm nut That's what the OP was asking anyway.

Nut side , axle side , whatever works for you is fine with me.

[h0gr1der]

I've done it both ways, and pulling on the nut side while pulling the wrench towards you will almost always result in the axle shifting and the belt running out of alignment. I now use a small ratchet strap on the right non drive side to pull the axle forward to keep the adjusters seated, the belt tension keeps the left drive side adjusters seated, and tighten the nut pushing up on the torque wrench. What a pain in the rear!

[2dogs]

Yep, tightening forces in the rearward direction toward the belt adjusters, otherwise you'll change the belt alignment. With the rear wheel off the ground and the spyder secured, start it up and put it in first gear. With the wheel spinning while torqueing the axle you can watch the belt walk across the pulley. 166 lb. torque is way over reasonable. JMHO though.

[PinkRosePetal]

I've done it both ways, and pulling on the nut side while pulling the wrench towards you will almost always result in the axle shifting and the belt running out of alignment. I now use a small ratchet strap on the right non drive side to pull the axle forward to keep the adjusters seated, the belt tension keeps the left drive side adjusters seated, and tighten the nut pushing up on the torque wrench. What a pain in the rear!

Yep, I'm with you on that one. But my technique is slightly different, I nip up the axle tightening on the sprocket side, quite firm but not rigid tight. That little spanner tool I made, shown in the picture a few replies back, is on the silencer side and I give the end of it a couple of whacks with a hammer to ensure the axle and right adjuster is firmly seated forward then finally tighten the axle to spec. Works for me.

[PinkRosePetal]

... 166 lb. torque is way over reasonable. JMHO though.

Agreed...