bleeding sm5 clutch

[bayoubill]

so i got my rs out yesterday, no clutch, i checked and it was leaking out at the diaphragm cover area, the large o-ring on the piston looked like it had been shoved in dry at assembly it was cut off flat in spots, no real wear anywhere, anyway i cleaned the bore with 1000 wet or dry and ordered new o-rings, will the clutch slave cylinder piston bleed just filling the master and pulling the lever and loosening the slave bleeder just like a brake will or is there some other procedure i need to do?

[PMK]

Typically, on any setup, clutch or motorcycle brake, if you can, without making a mess, back bleed from the bottom up, using a syringe or similar works well.

For cleanup, use Iso Alcohol.

[bayoubill]

Typically, on any setup, clutch or motorcycle brake, if you can, without making a mess, back bleed from the bottom up, using a syringe or similar works well.

For cleanup, use Iso Alcohol.

i have done a thousand brakes on cars bikes and 4 wheelers, i always just do it the old pump and hold while opening the bleeder on the slave, just don't know about a spyder with the vacuum assist thing,

[Haze]

Bleed just like you describe for brakes.
Pump and hold works just fine for the clutch on my ST.
I use a oneway bleeder valve (single person bleeder valve) to make the job easier.
Cheers, David C.

[bayoubill]

Bleed just like you describe for brakes.
Pump and hold works just fine for the clutch on my ST.
I use a oneway bleeder valve (single person bleeder valve) to make the job easier.
Cheers, David C.

thanks,

[PMK]

i have done a thousand brakes on cars bikes and 4 wheelers, i always just do it the old pump and hold while opening the bleeder on the slave, just don't know about a spyder with the vacuum assist thing,

That method may work but may not. Here’s why, the master cylinder will lose its prime and have difficulty pulling fluid in. Seen it many times before on other hydraulic clutches and front brakes. You are pretty much starting with a dry system which adds some complexity.

On a car or a truck, they typically expect you to prime the master cylinder before connecting the brake lines and purge the master cylinder on an open system.

All the best with it.

[bayoubill]

That method may work but may not. Here’s why, the master cylinder will lose its prime and have difficulty pulling fluid in. Seen it many times before on other hydraulic clutches and front brakes. You are pretty much starting with a dry system which adds some complexity.

On a car or a truck, they typically expect you to prime the master cylinder before connecting the brake lines and purge the master cylinder on an open system.

All the best with it.

i've done many, many atv's like this from a dry start, several harleys too,

[PMK]

What a crazy topic this turned into.

The original post asks for help, then he gets suggestions on methods to accomplish the task, which he follows up by posting about having all sorts of experience with the task at hand. Makes you wonder, why ask...

All the best with it BayouBill.

[bayoubill]

What a crazy topic this turned into.

The original post asks for help, then he gets suggestions on methods to accomplish the task, which he follows up by posting about having all sorts of experience with the task at hand. Makes you wonder, why ask...

All the best with it BayouBill.

if you read post 3, i was only asking because of the vacuum assist, yes i have worked on lots of brakes, a few truck clutch slave cylinders, fact is i put one in the mazda b3000 im driving now,had to pull the whole driveline out, but none had an in line vacuum assist, just wanted to know if there was any special procedure with it,

[DougE]

The vacuum assist only works with the bike running. Just bleed it like normal. Make sure to hold the clutch release shaft. A 5 mm hex key. So you don’t damage the diaphragm. When installing the piston nut.

[PMK]

if you read post 3, i was only asking because of the vacuum assist, yes i have worked on lots of brakes, a few truck clutch slave cylinders, fact is i put one in the mazda b3000 im driving now,had to pull the whole driveline out, but none had an in line vacuum assist, just wanted to know if there was any special procedure with it,

I am fully aware of what you asked, including references to the vacuum assist. I offered up a proven method, that quickly and effectively accomplishes the task flush, bleed and fill a hydraulic motorcycle clutch, nothing more nor less.

While wonderful you cite your experiences, I will not be bothered, having nothing to prove.

It is your Spyder, your time and so forth, all the best with it.

[bayoubill]

jeez, every time i post anything i get spanked by someone, its getting old.....i will just read from now on and not post.

[PMK]

jeez, every time i post anything i get spanked by someone, its getting old.....i will just read from now on and not post.

Time out cowboy, nobody spanked you. YOU asked a question, I took the time to reply, YOU wanted to use another method of YOUR choice, and YOU informed me of your experiences.

If anyone got spanked it was me.

As I stated, it is YOUR Spyder, to accomplish whatever method you decide upon. It is entirely YOUR choice to participate or simply search and read to find your answers.

Again, all the best with it.

[larryd]

I read way more than I post...Back in the seventies I worked for Sears in the automotive department as a brake specialist...I did nothing but brake jobs 6 days a week/ 8 hours a day for several years...Every so often they would send me to a brake update school...They taught us if you had to manually bleed, DO NOT use the "pump them up method"...There method was to have someone open the furtherest bleeded from the master cylinder and have the brake pedal operator gradually push the brake pedal to the floor...then he would tell the other mechanic at the bleeded to close the bleeder before letting the pedal up...repeat until you had a solid stream of fluid at that wheel and then move to the next closest one...I still use this method as needed today...I often use the gravity method if the situation allows...I also have a vacuum bleeder AND a pressure bleeder with many different adapters for the reserviors...Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat..Do what ever it takes to get the job done...larryd

PS They also told us if you ever lost all your brake fluid due to a failure out in the middle of now where, AND if brake fluid was not available...And if you were able to stop the leak...NEVER PUT ANYTHING in that hydraulic system except WATER to get you home...I never had to try this...I carry a spare can of brake fluid in all my vehicles...Just saying what we were told at brake school back in the seventies...larryd

[PMK]

I read way more than I post...Back in the seventies I worked for Sears in the automotive department as a brake specialist...I did nothing but brake jobs 6 days a week/ 8 hours a day for several years...Every so often they would send me to a brake update school...They taught us if you had to manually bleed, DO NOT use the "pump them up method"...There method was to have someone open the furtherest bleeded from the master cylinder and have the brake pedal operator gradually push the brake pedal to the floor...then he would tell the other mechanic at the bleeded to close the bleeder before letting the pedal up...repeat until you had a solid stream of fluid at that wheel and then move to the next closest one...I still use this method as needed today...I often use the gravity method if the situation allows...I also have a vacuum bleeder AND a pressure bleeder with many different adapters for the reserviors...Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat..Do what ever it takes to get the job done...larryd

PS They also told us if you ever lost all your brake fluid due to a failure out in the middle of now where, AND if brake fluid was not available...And if you were able to stop the leak...NEVER PUT ANYTHING in that hydraulic system except WATER to get you home...I never had to try this...I carry a spare can of brake fluid in all my vehicles...Just saying what we were told at brake school back in the seventies...larryd

Agree fully this works well on cars / truck brakes.and even automotive hydraulic clutches. With motorcycles, the bore of the master cylinder piston, and more importantly, the small hole from the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder bore is often a small diameter. Because of low fluid volume and the small hole, it can be difficult to get the master cylinder primed and the system filled.

Using a syringe or similar, and pushing fluid up towards the master cylinder tends to remove air as the system is filled. Typically, using this method, the system is filled in 5 minutes. Once filled, most times opening the lower bleeder with a slight pressure on the lever, will expel any remaining entrapped air.

Regardless, I sincerely hope whatever method he uses, the system bleeds easily and thoroughly. Always is an eye opener if you pull the clutch in and the lever goes to the grip will riding.

[bayoubill]

update, got o rings today, polished the bore of the slave cylinder a little more with 1200 wet sand paper, installed o rings, filled from top and like i always do on the atv's i work on, worked fine, back on the road.

[Big Arm]

[Onei]

update, got o rings today, polished the bore of the slave cylinder a little more with 1200 wet sand paper, installed o rings, filled from top and like i always do on the atv's i work on, worked fine, back on the road.

I realize this is an old post. I have a 2015 f3s sm6 and fluid is leaking out the bottom of the slave cylinder. The repair manual indicates you need to replace the cylinder, but, I see you just replaced the o rings so from all my reading I am getting confused as others have replaced the rings also. So, I am a so, so mechanic and like to know what I am getting into. Once you have the slave off is it rather obvious which rings are which, are the rings all the same size and who did you order them from? Thanks

[Haze]

I realize this is an old post. I have a 2015 f3s sm6 and fluid is leaking out the bottom of the slave cylinder. The repair manual indicates you need to replace the cylinder, but, I see you just replaced the o rings so from all my reading I am getting confused as others have replaced the rings also. So, I am a so, so mechanic and like to know what I am getting into. Once you have the slave off is it rather obvious which rings are which, are the rings all the same size and who did you order them from? Thanks

I have a spare set of SM5 O rings that I'll send to you for the cost of postage.
Sold my 2013 ST and no longer need the O Rings. Three O ring set. All different sizes.