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Laser Schmaser ?
I have a 2010 RT with 17,000 M.
I am prepared to be corrected, so don't hold back.
As I understand it, the Spyder front end alignment is for "toe in" only. There is no adjustment for caster or camber. Correct ?
If this is correct, I do not understand the big deal about a laser front end alignment.
Does this just use a laser measuring device in lieu of a ruler ?
If this is the case, I would really question the necessity of a laser.
If "toe in" specs are available it would seem to me that it could be done with a ruler.
I am not a Luddite, but I don't like being snookered either.
I have heard the advertisements for high tech laser back surgery. I understand that the only difference is that the incision is made with a laser instead of a scalpel.
It sounds impressive though.
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Very Active Member
I think you are overlooking the part where it is all in relation to the rear wheel.
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Very Active Member
Correct no caster or camber …. but you forgot " Toe - out " ….. Yes it can be done manually, but a bit difficult …. If your " toe " is way off, the tire wear will be affected … sometimes minor - sometimes Major …. when a bad wear pattern starts - it ruins the tires, and pretty much correcting alignment won't save the tires. …. It is well reported here that the OEM - BRP alignment is usually OFF, my 2011 RSS wore evenly, but that was the exception ….. good luck …. Mike …. PS, I've had mine re-checked a few times and the alignment was still good.
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Very Active Member
Sort of. Castor is not adjustable. Camber technically is not adjustable. Toe is adjustable.
I believe toe specs are published in the manuals, however they are expressed in degrees, not a linear dimension.
You certainly can align the wheels without a laser setup. Be aware though you may need to null the steering electronics to prevent other problems.
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Number one; lasers are used because it's very difficult to get a measurement across the Spyder, physically, that is. The super-duper laser alignment attempts to get the chassis and all three wheels kinda neutrally aligned. Probably impossible unless you're very lucky and your rear wheel lines up with the chassis just as the belt runs true on the sprockets - not very likely. It sounds good but as soon as you drive along a road with a camber (most roads) the bike runs down the camber and you steer to counter that so the whole kaboosh runs out of line anyway.
However, plenty of Spyders appear to have poorly aligned front wheels in relation to toe-in so getting that sorted is a good thing. Since you've got a 2010RT, the steering tie-rods are very flimsy and flex under cornering loads, if you have the wherewithal to address that, you'll find your steering and general handling is much improved. They also flex on the 1330 but they're a little better but the front suspension is rubber bushed anyway so is a bit wooly.
3mm toe-in measured at the wheel rim isn't a bad place to start.
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Very Active Member
Thanks PinkPetalRosel,
3 MM Toe in. I know that if one knows the size of the tire & the adjustment show degrees, converting degrees to a length measurement shouldn't be any problem for the math minded/
Darrell
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
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30 years of satellite alignment experience getting in the way of my understanding this.
3mm is a distance and not an angle. It is a different angle depending on the length of the baseline or wheel diameter if you like. Please supply the necessary baseline length for this to be meaningful or express it in degrees.
Eckhard
Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Eckhard
30 years of satellite alignment experience getting in the way of my understanding this.
3mm is a distance and not an angle. It is a different angle depending on the length of the baseline or wheel diameter if you like. Please supply the necessary baseline length for this to be meaningful or express it in degrees.
270mm vertical leg (long leg) of the right triangle, hypotenuse length is not critical, merely provides the intersection point for the short leg length. Could be horizontal in your case as you are looking down to sort toe setting.
in post 84, I had a full chart of camber degrees to linear dimension corrections. I dumbed it down a bit as there may have been too much info for readers.
The post 84 info works whether the triangle leg is vertical or horizontal. Vertical is camber, horizontal is toe.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Eckhard
30 years of satellite alignment experience getting in the way of my understanding this.
3mm is a distance and not an angle. It is a different angle depending on the length of the baseline or wheel diameter if you like. Please supply the necessary baseline length for this to be meaningful or express it in degrees.
0° +/-0.2° in the 2013 service manual. Probably still the same for latest models. The area of strong disagreement between all the alignment folks here and BRP is the fact that you can have some toe-out and still be in spec. Experience has shown that any toe-out is detrimental to steering.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Thanks to all for good input and for not beating me up.
PinkRosePetal,
3mm toe-in measured at the wheel rim isn't a bad place to start.
Front edge of rim to edge of rim 3mm narrower than rear edge of rim to edge of rim and squared with centerline of rear rim ?
I live by your rule # 1 and have used that line for most of my life.
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Originally Posted by 12tree
PinkRosePetal,
3mm toe-in measured at the wheel rim isn't a bad place to start.
Front edge of rim to edge of rim 3mm narrower than rear edge of rim to edge of rim and squared with centerline of rear rim ?
Yup, 3mm narrower at the front of the wheel rim compared to the rear. You have 12" wheels so that gives you a tad more toe than it would on a 1330 with 13" rims. The front suspension has a certain amount of bump steer so your weight and the load in the front trunk will have a wee effect on the actual toe setting once you're riding.
I live by your rule # 1 and have used that line for most of my life.
Good call, you might find you need it here too...
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
Yup, 3mm narrower at the front of the wheel rim compared to the rear. You have 12" wheels so that gives you a tad more toe than it would on a 1330 with 13" rims. ......
Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal
Yup, 3mm narrower at the front of the wheel rim compared to the rear. You have 14" wheels so that gives you a tad more toe than it would on a 1330 with 15" rims. .........
Probably best to try & get the details right Fixed it for you (in bold) above!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-23-2019 at 05:49 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Probably best to try & get the details right Fixed it for you (in bold) above!
????????????? …. did " Lew L " mean " Shirley " ????????? ….. Mike
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Very Active Member
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Probably best to try & get the details right Fixed it for you (in bold) above!
Oops, brain fart, thanks.
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Originally Posted by 12tree
I have a 2010 RT with 17,000 M. I am prepared to be corrected, so don't hold back.
As I understand it, the Spyder front end alignment is for "toe in" only. There is no adjustment for caster or camber. Correct? CORRECT
If this is correct, I do not understand the big deal about a laser front end alignment; does this just use a laser measuring device in lieu of a ruler? YES
If this is the case, I would really question the necessity of a laser.
Laser alignment is not necessary, but some people prefer having someone knowledgeable align their Spyder and those folks use a laser assisted system.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
The biggest benefit of the laser is it projects the position of the toe-in well past the front and rear of the Spyder. This will magnify the error and therefore allow you to make a more accurate adjustment.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
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Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Very Active Member
If laser alignment systems, for both cages and Spyders, weren't more accurate than older systems dealers and independents wouldn't invest the considerable bucks they cost. The real key is the knowledge and meticulousness of the operator of the system.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
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Airplane, Lesley Nielson ??
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by 12tree
Airplane, Lesley Nielson ??
You win!!!!!!!
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
Since I do all my own work, I built my own laser alignment system, based on plans found here, with some modifications. http://www.lindsayroland.com/spyder/...-DIY-gear.html
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Originally Posted by Jetfixer
How do you reset the BUDS?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
How do you reset the BUDS?
I have BUDS. You need it to reset the steering angle offset, etc.
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Originally Posted by Jetfixer
I have BUDS. You need it to reset the steering angle offset, etc.
That was my point. Not everyone realizes this.
2014 RTL Platinum
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