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  1. #1
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    Default Fault Code P0118

    It has been just over a week since I last rode my 2018 RT, and it had no apparent issues when I parked it. The forecast was mild for today so I planned to ride to work. When I started it, the "check engine" light lit up, and I heard the blower come on. Fault code came up as P0118.

    Any suggestions on what I should check?
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  2. #2
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    Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit High

    Cause. Disconnected sensor, circuit wire short to battery + or sensor resistance too High.

    Action
    Check for disconnected
    engine temperature sensor. Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-A1 to CTS-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-J2 to CTS-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure CTS resistance value (expected value: 2280 to 2736 ohms at 19 to 21°C (66 to 70

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by splake0 View Post
    Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit High
    could also be disconnected

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  4. #4
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    Thanks for the information.
    Now I just need to figure out where the sensor is located to check it. My Spyder is still under warranty, but it's about a 40 mile trip to the nearest dealer.
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RowdyScamp View Post
    Thanks for the information.
    Now I just need to figure out where the sensor is located to check it. My Spyder is still under warranty, but it's about a 40 mile trip to the nearest dealer.
    think there are actually 2 sensors 1 for fluid temp close to water pump & one that also does ambient temp display on dash, in around the air box. might look at cheap cycle parts exploded view pages help save some panel removal.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  6. #6
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    Just an update on my problem.

    I took the left side covers off this evening after work, and found the coolant temperature sensor. Apparently, a rodent has gotten onto my engine and chewed wiring. There is not enough wire remaining on the connector to try and splice. So I need to find a replacement connector with pigtail, then I will need to loosen the wiring harness so that I can get to the wires to splice them.

    Any clues as to where I can get a connector? I checked with one local auto parts store, but they said they can't get anything like that. I will check with the other parts stores in town tomorrow to see if I have better luck.
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    A picture of the connector would help, but if you look closely most connectors will have a tiny tab that holds the pin or socket in place. I have removed many a pin from connectors and soldered or installed a new wire and then used the connector. There is a company online that sells just about any connector you would ever need. I use them when restoring old motorcycles. It will take me a bit, but I will look up their site and post it for you.
    2015 RT , Black

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    2015 RT , Black

  9. #9
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    Trying to add pictures of the connector. A quarter is included for scale.
    ect sensor connector1.jpgect sensor connector2.jpgect sensor connector3.jpg
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    The wires and pins can be removed from those connectors, repaired, and replaced. You need to examine it closely, but there is a tab or protrusion that can be bent or pushed to release the pins. The metal pins themselves may have a tab that can be pressed back and allow them to come out. You can't break it much worse than it is now. In the third photo look down along the pins and see if you can find it there. If you can find it a paper clip or very thin tool of any type can be used to do the job. I have a set of tools made just for this purpose since I used to repair these types of connectors on the job. In a pinch the paper clip or similar object work just fine. If you are able to get it apart remember which side the wires were on. Not a good idea to get them crossed.

    As a side note; lots of wiring on many vehicles has a soy based coating, not rubber, and mice find it very tasty. Soy wiring and a heated or warmer garage is mouse heaven.
    2015 RT , Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RowdyScamp View Post
    Just an update on my problem.

    I took the left side covers off this evening after work, and found the coolant temperature sensor. Apparently, a rodent has gotten onto my engine and chewed wiring. There is not enough wire remaining on the connector to try and splice. So I need to find a replacement connector with pigtail, then I will need to loosen the wiring harness so that I can get to the wires to splice them.

    Any clues as to where I can get a connector? I checked with one local auto parts store, but they said they can't get anything like that. I will check with the other parts stores in town tomorrow to see if I have better luck.
    sorry to hear, now you also need check all wires in area. Part should be here
    https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
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    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
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  13. #13
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.
    Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    This looks like the right one. Boschs version of the amp connector. See picture. If it is. Then look on Ebay for the pigtail. That is if you or someone you know cannot make a new pigtail from the parts.
    Do some research before buying as this is a female connector. Look at the metal contacts. They are made to accept the flat pins that are showing in your damaged connector which is the male plug. Doesn't do any good to buy a connector and have two female ends.
    2015 RT , Black

  15. #15
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navydad View Post
    Do some research before buying as this is a female connector. Look at the metal contacts. They are made to accept the flat pins that are showing in your damaged connector which is the male plug. Doesn't do any good to buy a connector and have two female ends.
    I have never seen a sensor socket that is not male. Not saying they don't exist. I have never seen one. So the corresponding harness plug should be female. That would be normal.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  16. #16
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RowdyScamp View Post
    Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.
    Just buy all the parts to build a new one. Shipping will likely cost more than the parts. When I built my own trailer harness. I did not have the proper crimp tool for wire ends. I just used a needle nose pliers to crimp. Then soldered it so it would not come apart because of the bad crimp. Then crimped on the seal.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    The connector in the pics with the quarter is a male connector with the flat pins. I don't know if it came from the sensor or from the harness, but it has male pins. The one in the attachment photo has the female ends and is described as a female connector next to the price. It appears to be the same as the connector in his pics, but the metal terminals are not the same. Look before you buy.
    2015 RT , Black

  18. #18
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navydad View Post
    The connector in the pics with the quarter is a male connector with the flat pins. I don't know if it came from the sensor or from the harness, but it has male pins. The one in the attachment photo has the female ends and is described as a female connector next to the price. It appears to be the same as the connector in his pics, but the metal terminals are not the same. Look before you buy.
    Bosch appears to have male and female terms reversed. Look at their connectors here: https://www.automotive-connectors.co...ector-1-1.html.

    RowdyScamp, make sure you get the right connector. The one in your pic is, as Billy shows, a Bosch compact 1.1 series. Most of the connectors of that type on the Spyder are Amp Superseal 1.5. They won't fit together. The Bosch has horizontal flat terminals and Amp are vertical flat terminals. Most of the connectors I've seen on eBay are AMP Superseal style. You may want to just buy the parts and pieces to assemble your own connector from the website above, but it's in Germany.

    From what I find doing a Google and eBay search I've concluded your best bet is to solder new wire to what is sticking out of the plug. After splicing and soldering cover them with shrink tubing for protection and insulation.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RowdyScamp View Post
    Thanks, that's what I found after some searching. I have given up on trying to obtain one locally. Two of the auto parts stores said that they couldn't get the connector, the third said it would probably be cheaper ordering on-line. Still looking at ways to disassemble what I have, and will decide from there.
    Sorry didnt think of this before but how far are you from SpyderPops in Percy AR? Great shop to visit & his team has skills to fix you up properly, proably has the connector too.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
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    Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
    sawblade mowhalk fender accents
    minispyder dash toy
    Lid lox
    KradelLock
    Pakitrack
    GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
    FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
    BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
    SENA 20S EVO
    2013 STL , Stock Stock Black currant

  20. #20
    Active Member RowdyScamp's Avatar
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    My spyder is up and running again. On Saturday I did a visual inspection, spliced wires in, and wrapped new friction tape on the harness. The connector arrived in the mail today, and it was a simple matter to get it installed. The hardest part was getting my hand in the space to plug it in. Forecast showing daytime temperatures in the 50s and 60s coming up, so it could be a good time to ride.

    For what it's worth, the old connector is female, and the one shown in post #11 is an exact replacement.



    In reply to Bfromla's last post - from here to Pearcy is between 2 and 3 hours, depending on route and traffic. Not sure if that fault code would have put it in limp mode, but I wouldn't want to take that chance.
    2018 RT , Pearl White

  21. #21
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    Glad to see you’ Up and running again

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