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  1. #1
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Default UVC Fair or rip off?

    I was looking at an ad for a 2011 Sypder and noticed the dealer made a comment that the UVC (among other charges) was not included in the sale price. I have never heard of a UVC so did a little digging. It sounds like an additional charge the dealer tacks on for doing a safety check on the vehicle, since it's previously owned. What do y'all think about this? Just a little nickel dime tag on to add to their profit margin?
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    I say, tell me what you want and I will say yes or hell no, don't tell me that you want to tack more on after you see me!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Sounds like a dealer to steer clear of to me
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2 View Post
    Sounds like a dealer to steer clear of to me
    Yea, it sure does. I found one mention of this UVC charge on another forum. The poster there said he was charged $500.00 for this "safety inspection". This was on top of the tax, license, title (all legit) and document fee (BS).
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  5. #5
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    It must be different in the US.

    Here its the dealers responsibility to ensure any vehicle that leaves his lot is safe to do so. I'd love to see what the safety inspection actually checks and to what degree.
    2017 RTL , White

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Another one of those add-on charges that needs to be discussed before a contract is signed.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 12-08-2019 at 12:14 PM.

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  7. #7
    Active Member JIM W's Avatar
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    That's something the dealer should have taken care of before taking possession of the machine his problem not yours I wouldn't pay extra

  8. #8
    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Just my take on this subject, may not be pertinent as the Spyder is used. To obtain absolute lowest price I shop around, and see what the total out the door price is at comparable dealers. I will (and do) cross state lines, but you have to be aware of taxation issues between states before signing the dotted line. I build a spreadsheet and track who I talked to, when it happened, and how much was offered. I only talk in out the door prices, as this eliminates all of the other useless BS. I keep making the circles, shopping continuously. I add to the spreadsheet when a new unit comes along, mark off the ones that have sold. For new items, there are usually a few things that drive the price down with time passage. Floor-plan is one of them on consignment items, year end taxes is another. I've used this methodology 3 times in the last couple of years, and had one dealer tell me about a new truck I was buying that "They can't sell it to you for that". They did, and it is what I'm driving right now, purchased at significantly below blue book. Be persistent. Be willing to walk away.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    It must be different in the US.

    Here its the dealers responsibility to ensure any vehicle that leaves his lot is safe to do so. I'd love to see what the safety inspection actually checks and to what degree.
    It sounds to me like that's what they're doing. They're just passing on the cost of that to the next buyer.
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h0gr1der View Post
    Just my take on this subject, may not be pertinent as the Spyder is used. To obtain absolute lowest price I shop around, and see what the total out the door price is at comparable dealers. I will (and do) cross state lines, but you have to be aware of taxation issues between states before signing the dotted line.
    I only once purchased a vehicle from out of state. Actually purchased it while serving with the military in Germany and picked it up in New Jersey. They only gave me a Temp sticker for the window and said I'd need to settle everything else with Washington state. When I got here the DMV people told me I had to pay the full Washington sales tax which made sense since I didn't pay anything before I got here. They told me if I had paid New Jersey sales tax, and it was less then Washington, I would only need to pay the difference. If it was higher, I would not have to pay anything. Of course that was forty years ago. Things may have changed since then.
    Greg Kamer
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  11. #11
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    Stupid question: What is UVC.

    Please remember that I am Down Under and have not heard of this.

    Cheers

  12. #12
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    UVC, dealer prep, service tech lunch fee, etc... call it anything you want. It's all profit to the dealer and they are entitled to a profit. Dont play their games with them. Just ask for the "out the door, bottom line price" and make your decision based on that. That's all that matters at the end of the day. If they try to add something after you've made your "out the door" deal, tell them to take it away or walk if they don't.
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fearless View Post
    Stupid question: What is UVC.

    Please remember that I am Down Under and have not heard of this.

    Cheers
    I'm from the US and I don't know what it is either.

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  14. #14
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fearless View Post
    Stupid question: What is UVC.

    Please remember that I am Down Under and have not heard of this.

    Cheers
    used vehicle certification, in the original post.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member gkamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fearless View Post
    Stupid question: What is UVC.

    Please remember that I am Down Under and have not heard of this.

    Cheers
    Used Vehicle Certification I believe. Some dealers will claim they have to perform an inspection on a used vehicle to make sure it is safe to sell, and then try to pass that cost along to the next buyer. I believe the dealer should be conducting this type of inspection used to be sure the vehicle they are taking in is in good condition.
    Greg Kamer
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member troop's Avatar
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    Here in WI, it's required by law for a m/v dealership to do a safety inspection on all used vehicles that are to be put up for sale. Generally, they absorb the labor cost in in the selling price. They also are required to show you, if asked, of the results of the safety inspection and any parts/needed attention. Sound like Used vehicle Inspection is a blatant charge for safety


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  17. #17
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h0gr1der View Post
    Just my take on this subject, may not be pertinent as the Spyder is used. To obtain absolute lowest price I shop around, and see what the total out the door price is at comparable dealers. I will (and do) cross state lines, but you have to be aware of taxation issues between states before signing the dotted line. I build a spreadsheet and track who I talked to, when it happened, and how much was offered. I only talk in out the door prices, as this eliminates all of the other useless BS. I keep making the circles, shopping continuously. I add to the spreadsheet when a new unit comes along, mark off the ones that have sold. For new items, there are usually a few things that drive the price down with time passage. Floor-plan is one of them on consignment items, year end taxes is another. I've used this methodology 3 times in the last couple of years, and had one dealer tell me about a new truck I was buying that "They can't sell it to you for that". They did, and it is what I'm driving right now, purchased at significantly below blue book. Be persistent. Be willing to walk away.
    You are spot on with your research. I do very similar when purchasing, but don't go as far as keeping a spread sheet. When I went to buy my last big purchase, I was drawn in by one dealership who had what I thought I wanted for $25,995. They said they were negotiable if I came down in person. I went down with $26k cash for an out the door deal. After the test drive, they gave me an out the door price of $28,995. Needless to say, I showed them the money and then walked out.
    2 weeks later I went to look at a newer model that was listed for $31,995. They also said they were negotiable and gave me an out the door price of $29,995. I went to walk away and they asked what it would take to sell that day. I offered $28k cash. They said no, but then agreed if I would finance for atleast 3 months (I found out that they get $3k kick back from the bank). I agreed, but they owed me a couple of things (convertible cover and the extra key fob). After taking delivery of the car and financing $27.5k, they then wanted to charge me for the extra key fob ($350). I said no and went to their main dealership. The owner finally gave me the key fob the next week, and I paid the car off that following week, so the sales team missed out on the extra $3k from the bank.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacklightning View Post
    You are spot on with your research. I do very similar when purchasing, but don't go as far as keeping a spread sheet. When I went to buy my last big purchase, I was drawn in by one dealership who had what I thought I wanted for $25,995. They said they were negotiable if I came down in person. I went down with $26k cash for an out the door deal. After the test drive, they gave me an out the door price of $28,995. Needless to say, I showed them the money and then walked out.
    2 weeks later I went to look at a newer model that was listed for $31,995. They also said they were negotiable and gave me an out the door price of $29,995. I went to walk away and they asked what it would take to sell that day. I offered $28k cash. They said no, but then agreed if I would finance for atleast 3 months (I found out that they get $3k kick back from the bank). I agreed, but they owed me a couple of things (convertible cover and the extra key fob). After taking delivery of the car and financing $27.5k, they then wanted to charge me for the extra key fob ($350). I said no and went to their main dealership. The owner finally gave me the key fob the next week, and I paid the car off that following week, so the sales team missed out on the extra $3k from the bank.
    I hate those games dealerships play...
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-09-2019 at 11:16 PM. Reason: Avoiding Word filter....
    2014 RTL Platinum


  19. #19
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    All used vehicles sold in Arizona by any dealer automatically comes with an implied warranty of merchantability. There can be exclusions but those must be disclosed in writing. A lot of dealers won't disclose this to customers and just say the sale is "as is". But ALL dealer sales come with a 15 day and/or 500-mile warranty. I'll bet there are many other states that have similar provisions. But don't look for used car lots to advertise that. For a number of years I worked part time (for fun and not much profit) at a used RV (motorhome) sales dealer. That dealership extended the implied warranty to 30 days. If anything went wrong with the coach regardless of circumstance, it was repaired for the first 30 days without charge to the customer. Every used vehicle was completely inspected not only for safety but also to insure every system and feature functioned properly. There was never a seperate line item charge for doing this. I can't imagine doing business anyother way. But I guess some places do..... Jim
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