Dealer brake fluid change

[oldgoat]

Here is the information I received from Speed Bleeder Products. They have been very responsive and informative as to application. They also offer a stainless steel version, which is quite interesting.

Let me know if it is too small for you to read and I will send you the file.

I contacted them yesterday for my 2008 GS. Same as all the others , SB8125L.
I ordered 3.

[Mikey]

I ordered a set for my RTL yesterday!!

[BajaRon]

I have been asked how a Speed Bleeder works and why it is a good idea to replace the OEM bleeders with this upgrade.

A Speed Bleeder uses a Spring Loaded Ball Valve assembly. It does what you do when you open a bleeder with pressure on the fluid, bleed and close. The differences are. A Speed Bleeder opens and closes automatically and reliably. 1 person can bleed a system with a speed bleeder, whereas it usually takes 2 people to do it with a standard bleeding process. When you do this manually, you can easily get air in the system. Not good! With a Speed Bleeder, air cannot get into the system. So, bleeding is much faster, easier, and less problem prone when you use Speed Bleeders.

Picture A below shows air in the system with the ball valve closed. Picture B shows how the Speed Bleeder opens automatically when enough hydraulic pressure is applied to overcomes the ball valve, which then allows the fluid and trapped air to escape. Picture C represents the ball valve closing and sealing the system automatically as the hydraulic pressure decreases. Fluid/Air can only go out, they cannot get in. It is a 1-way system. Simple and effective.

This does not take into consideration the other bleeding alternatives like a pressurized bottle apparatus. But of all the methods I've tried. This method is reliable and the easiest, quickest, and least messy way I've found.

SpeedBleeders1.gif

[PMK]

I have been asked how a Speed Bleeder works and why it is a good idea to replace the OEM bleeders with this upgrade.

A Speed Bleeder uses a Spring Loaded Ball Valve assembly. It does what you do when you open a bleeder with pressure on the fluid, bleed and close. The differences are. A Speed Bleeder opens and closes automatically and reliably. 1 person can do this with a speed bleeder whereas it usually takes 2 people to do it with a standard bleeding process. When you do this manually, you can easily get air in the system. Not good! With a Speed Bleeder, air cannot get into the system. And, bleeding is much easier with Speed Bleeders in place.

Picture A below shows air in the system with the ball valve closed. Picture B shows what happens with the Speed Bleeder is in the 'Open' position and the hydraulic pressure overcomes the ball valve which then allows the fluid and trapped air to escape. Picture C represents the ball valve closing and sealing the system as the hydraulic pressure decreases. Fluid/Air can only go out, they cannot get in as this is a 1-way system. Simple and effective.

This does not take into consideration the other bleeding alternatives like a pressurized bottle apparatus. But of all the methods I've tried. This is the easiest, quickest, and least messy way I've found.

SpeedBleeders1.gif

On the race bikes, most times we use a longer hose and tie a loose knot in the hose. This works well to keep air from reentering the system.

Pretty much though, the Spyder is an easy bleed if you know how to bleed brakes. The final step I use after vacuum bleeding is pump and release to remove the final slightest bit of entrapped air. But yes, that step takes two people a few minutes to do.

[RICZ]

A problem I had with all other bleeding methods is air sneaking past the bleeder valve threads. And yes, I have tried them all. Speed Bleeder solves this by adding a meguselum to the threads of theirs that acts as a seal.

[BajaRon]

A problem I had with all other bleeding methods is air sneaking past the bleeder valve threads. And yes, I have tried them all. Speed Bleeder solves this by adding a meguselum to the threads of theirs that acts as a seal.

I have never experienced leakage by the threads. But I have heard others talk about it. This is especially annoying because it is not a good idea to use any thread sealers on bleeders. The chance of contaminating/blocking something in the system is real. And you're right. At least the quality Speed Bleeders have addressed this possibility.

[Dennis in Lodi]

anyone know where the brake resivor is located on a 2016 F3L? Don't want to take off more covers than needed.
Thanks
Dennis

[RICZ]

Please read the owners' manual - it will be a great help with many things. The brake fluid reservoir is under the right side service panel along with the oil dipstick.

[h0gr1der]

Does it require BUDS to get fluid out of the ABS bleeder? Trying to decide if I should get that bleeder also.

As my addition to this topic, I just went and checked my Brembo calipers and they were non-magnetic. I'm guessing aluminum? Anyway, installing any kind of stainless into an aluminum piece creates a galvanic cell in the presence of an electrolyte such as water or worse water with salt. Regular steel does the same, just much less aggressively. The stainless becomes the cathode, and the aluminum becomes the anode and gets eroded. I think I'll stick with the regular steel ones.

[jiffy]

Ron, Thanks for the chart.

[BrianO]

I was watching a YouTube about bleeding Spyder brakes. The guy said the front calipers must be removed first so the bleeder valve is at the top. He also said the rear muffler needs to be removed to access the bleeder. Is this true?
I’ve never blead brakes before, but I thought I’d just have to remove the front wheels.
I had the fluid flushed on my 2016 last year at the dealer, and it was very expensive. I’d like to do it myself next time.
....brian.

[RICZ]

I have an F3L, so I'm gonna guess the bleeding procedure is the same on an RT. The front wheels do need to be removed to access the bleeders,but not the rear wheel. Bleed the left front first, then the right front, then the rear. The rear bleeder is at the top of the caliper facing front. It's accessed from the right side of the bike.
Helpful hint: Get a set of Speed Bleeders to make the job stupid easy. No additional tools or equipment needed, just a hose, a container for the spent fluid and a wrench that fits. All you do is open the Speed Bleeder 1/8 turn, pump the brake pedal until you see fresh fluid then close the valve. Of course you will be keeping an eye on the reservoir so you don't drain the chamber.

[PMK]

Previous posts have mentioned the task.

The calipers should not require being removed. The front wheels will need to be removed. So in that regard, you will need a proper torque wrench for reinstalling the wheels.

Focused on bleeding the brakes, there are 4 bleeders that require access. I assume you are accomplishing a flush and bleed. With that, to save time, start by removing all existing fluid from the two reservoir segments.

Refill the reservoir with correct new fluid. Typically, the sequence is left front, right front, rear, then ABS module. Each is bled until new fluid is seen in the catch cup for old fluid. I have found it best to accomplish the flush where the first pass removes essentially all old fluid. The second pass ensures clean fluid on account of the catch cup has been emptied.

As you have read, some folks install aftermarket Speedbleeders. Others, myself included have not yet bothered to do so.

[SNOOPY]

Previous posts have mentioned the task.

The calipers should not require being removed. The front wheels will need to be removed. So in that regard, you will need a proper torque wrench for reinstalling the wheels.

Focused on bleeding the brakes, there are 4 bleeders that require access. I assume you are accomplishing a flush and bleed. With that, to save time, start by removing all existing fluid from the two reservoir segments.

Refill the reservoir with correct new fluid. Typically, the sequence is left front, right front, rear, then ABS module. Each is bled until new fluid is seen in the catch cup for old fluid. I have found it best to accomplish the flush where the first pass removes essentially all old fluid. The second pass ensures clean fluid on account of the catch cup has been emptied.

As you have read, some folks install aftermarket Speedbleeders. Others, myself included have not yet bothered to do so.

Sounds like you do it the same as myself. 6 years and no issues.

Never had any reset or calibration from dealer either.

[BrianO]

If I remove all the old fluid from the reservoir, won’t that let air into the system, which would mean I’d need buds to flush the abs? I was hoping to just flush and not let air into the lines.

Also, when installing the speedbleeders, is much air allowed in?
Than you for your expertise everyone!....brian

[RICZ]

If I remove all the old fluid from the reservoir, won’t that let air into the system, which would mean I’d need buds to flush the abs? I was hoping to just flush and not let air into the lines.
Also, when installing the speedbleeders, is much air allowed in?
Than you for your expertise everyone!....brian

You can draw all the fluid out of the reservoir, but don't touch the brake pedal until you refilled it.
When removing the bleeder, air won't go in, but fluid will ooze out, so have the Speed Bleeder ready to install and have a rag wrapped around the base so no fluid gets where it shouldn't.
FYI: Use DOT4 only. Never use DOT5 synthetic - that's for racing - unless the manual calls for it.

[Lew L]

I have speedbleeders on the poor, old,slow V-Max---- they work perfectly. Just ordered 3 for the . Empty the reservoir first, fill with fresh DOT 4, keep an eye on that reservoir.
Lew L

[jcoats1]

They should be all the same size. Be sure and keep a rag handy dampened with lacquer thinner when you do the change over. Lacquer thinner is the only thing that will cut brake fluid. Lacquer thinner also evaporates at the speed of light, so be prepared for the accidental spill because brake fluid can almost eat through or ruin anything it's not supposed to touch.

Soap & water cleans brake fluid! Lacquer thinner cuts paint!!!!

[PMK]

Soap & water cleans brake fluid! Lacquer thinner cuts paint!!!!

Iso alcohol will also remove brake fluid with no harm.

[Dennis in Lodi]

Please read the owners' manual - .

come on man. I have a factory manual and entered the word brake fluid and it shows on 17 different pages!!! This forum is for quick answers which you also provided. Thanks. My bike is very dirty under that cover and I didn't see it.

[RICZ]

come on man. I have a factory manual and entered the word brake fluid and it shows on 17 different pages!!! This forum is for quick answers which you also provided. Thanks. My bike is very dirty under that cover and I didn't see it.

My apologies. So many come on here with a problem that the cure is in the manual - if they'd read it.
Trivia question: What's the most unread book in the world? The vehicle's owners manual.

[BrianO]

Here is a photo of my back wheel. Is the rubber covered nipple the bleeder?
Also, I was looking at the brake bleeding section of my service manual. It recommends doing the bleeding 3 times! Doing all wheels and abs by pressing the brake pedal, using buds to flush both brake circuits, then doing the wheel and abs bleed again by pressing the pedal. No wonder it’s so expensive at the dealer.....brian

5993B74B-E67A-4DCC-8D94-00D46771E789.jpg

[PW2013STL]

Here is a photo of my back wheel. Is the rubber covered nipple the bleeder?
Also, I was looking at the brake bleeding section of my service manual. It recommends doing the bleeding 3 times! Doing all wheels and abs by pressing the brake pedal, using buds to flush both brake circuits, then doing the wheel and abs bleed again by pressing the pedal. No wonder it’s so expensive at the dealer.....brian

No picture shows, but you are correct in that the bleeder screw will have a rubber cover on it.

[Haze]

Which bleeder do I need for the clutch master cylinder on my 2013 STS SM5.??
No listing on the website and no response to my email.

[Lew L]

Which bleeder do I need for the clutch master cylinder on my 2013 STS SM5.??
No listing on the website and no response to my email.

Hi Dave,
I called them and it's an " SB8125L " Same as the ones I just ordered. Lew L