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Very Active Member
Help!!
Got a new 2018 F3 limited from Imotorsports.
Went to move floorboards from 3 to 4 position. One of the T30 on driver side head is stripped . Couldn't put any pressure on it without just turning Anyone have an idea how to get out . One disappointment after another.
TIA
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Easy outs might be the best way.
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Bought a used 2015 F3S. Boards were in number 5 position and I'm a number 3. Drove 350 miles to pick it up - and ryde it home (wife went with me to drive back). Took a number 3 rod with me. Luckily the brake side moved easily - the left side - same problem - stripped bolt. Tried different Allen head sizes and torx sizes trying to find something that would move it - and nothing. Rode home with the left at 5 and right at 3. Doh!
Got home and tried an easy out - no dice there either. Ended up drilling the bolt out and using a new longer bolt and nut on the back side. I'm guessing a stripped bolt is not a warranty issue - but being a 2018 - might see if you have any wiggle room with the dealer if you want to be patient. If you want to get the job done and the easy out doesn't work - I'd say it's time for a good titanium drill bit, oil, and drill that puppy out.
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Joshua
2012 Victory Vision
2016 Spyder F3S
2019 Spyder RT Limited
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If it is just the head that is stripped (not the threads). I'd suggest quick set JB Weld. It may cost you a tool head, but they are easily replaced. Be sure there is no oil or any residue of anything on either surface. Glue the Torx bit to the screw head and let it set up. You may need some duct tape or similar to hold the tool head in place while the glue sets up. This has worked great for me in the past.
Don't get frustrated. Just keep thinking about how much fun you'll have with your Spyder when it's done. Believe me. We've all been where you are now.
Good Luck!
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If I remember correctly when I did mine, I believe the threads have some sort of locking compound on them. It might help if you tried a little heat along with Ron's suggestion, or if using a screw extractor. I may be wrong about the locking compound, but heat never hurts when dealing with problems like this, just don't get it too hot.
Cheers
Bill
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Very Active Member
Dremel a slot in the screw head, then use a screwdriver
2021 RT Limited
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This is a real handy tool to have for stubborn fasteners. Not sure if it would be the best in this case. But comes in handy many times. Biggest problem with this hand impact can be getting it to the needed spot. It's not great in tight spots. But then, what impact is?
But for the majority of times it's a great 'Getter-Outer'. You can get these in different configurations. This is the tool I have. The real advantage is that you get major pressure at the mating point at the exact moment that serious twist is applied.
Impact.jpg
Last edited by BajaRon; 11-22-2019 at 05:17 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
If it is just the head that is stripped (not the threads). I'd suggest quick set JB Weld. It may cost you a tool head, but they are easily replaced. Be sure there is no oil or any residue of anything on either surface. Glue the Torx bit to the screw head and let it set up. You may need some duct tape or similar to hold the tool head in place while the glue sets up. This has worked great for me in the past.
Don't get frustrated. Just keep thinking about how much fun you'll have with your Spyder when it's done. Believe me. We've all been where you are now.
Good Luck!
I have used this trick. I have also taken a punch with a flat end on it and put it on the head of the torx or allen screw. Whacked it with a hammer a time or two. This may loosen the bolt and it bangs up the head of the bolt just enough to where the torx/allen will get a grip. You may have to tap the torx bit into place because of the slightly messed up bolt head.
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Why is it always the last bolt that strips? When I had that problem, I drilled out the head with a bit the size of the threads. That will remove just the head of the bolt. I was then able to remove the bracket and take the remaining bolt out the backside with a pair of Vice grips.
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Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
Got a new 2018 F3 limited from Imotorsports.
Went to move floorboards from 3 to 4 position. One of the T30 on driver side head is stripped . Couldn't put any pressure on it without just turning Anyone have an idea how to get out . One disappointment after another.
TIA
Some options may be
- to drill a hole in the centre of the screw if able and use an easy out to remove the bolt. It will damage the bolt however they are easily available online.
- Is the T30 screw screwed into a Nut or to a structural component. If a nut a pair of Vice grips to hold the nut while attempting to unscrew or drill is possible.
- Last but not least, buy the cheapest T30 driver bit you can, Loctite it into the screw, allow it to set and work it out, again the screw would need to be replaced.
Once you can Identify of the thread the screw mates into is the issue or the screw itself, see an automotive or engineering shop for what know as Helicoil. You tap the stripped thread to a Helicaoil size then screw in a new thread and reassemble.
Hope you get some success.
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Very Active Member
I have a set of left hand twist drill bits for this purpose. First I try impacting the head, then heat, Cutting a slot (as mentioned above) and using a straight screwdriver is sometimes the best, if not only remedy.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Take a picture; lots of ideas, but none specific. Offhand, I’d drill the head off, remove, and if any bolt is protruding, a vise grips or a new tool called a “Vamplier”. Grips broken bolts perfectly. Could Dremel a slot, use flat tip screwdriver. Good luck!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Active Member
Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
Got a new 2018 F3 limited from Imotorsports.
Went to move floorboards from 3 to 4 position. One of the T30 on driver side head is stripped . Couldn't put any pressure on it without just turning Anyone have an idea how to get out . One disappointment after another.
TIA
There must have been a change from 2018 to 2019 because my floorboards have all allen heads. I also moved my floorboards to position 4 and they are 5mm allen heads!
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2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Originally Posted by LifeLongRider
There must have been a change from 2018 to 2019 because my floorboards have all allen heads. I also moved my floorboards to position 4 and they are 5mm allen heads!
If the OP is trying to use a Torx in an Allen head, that could be the the problem for sure. Though at this point, damage probably done. It can be somewhat hard to tell which one it is on a small, black head if you're not paying attention.
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Got it out with the JB weld. Let it cure for 18 hrs. put butane heat on brass piece in the back came right out.
And yes i misjudged the allen for torx. Lesson learned. Pay closer attention. Job complete. Thanks for everyone's help. Did work on other 3 though
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