I also used a step drill to bore a hole in the front of the frunk (in the weatherstripping) and wired in a battery tender charging port so my wife doesn't have to take the hood off to put it on the tender. Much easier and cleaner, in my opinion.
Nicely done! I am considering just removing the battery (easy enough to get to) and bring in the house and put it on a tender to keep it out of the cold. Not quite as easy to do on my Harley.
I also used a step drill to bore a hole in the front of the frunk (in the weatherstripping) and wired in a battery tender charging port so my wife doesn't have to take the hood off to put it on the tender. Much easier and cleaner, in my opinion.
Spygoat,
obviously those of us in cold weather have to put the battery on a tender over the winter storage months. Given that you've gone to the quick-connect, I presume you/your wife also put your Ryker on the tender whenever you park it.
Do you have previous experience with parasitic current draw on your Ryker draining your battery?
If so, how long between starts does it pull down to the point of needing a jump? A week? A month?
Nicely done! I am considering just removing the battery (easy enough to get to) and bring in the house and put it on a tender to keep it out of the cold. Not quite as easy to do on my Harley.
That's why I have heat in my garage...my Harley and the wife's Ryker are happy in there.
obviously those of us in cold weather have to put the battery on a tender over the winter storage months. Given that you've gone to the quick-connect, I presume you/your wife also put your Ryker on the tender whenever you park it.
Do you have previous experience with parasitic current draw on your Ryker draining your battery?
If so, how long between starts does it pull down to the point of needing a jump? A week? A month?
Thanks,
EV
We have not had an issue, but being the possibility is there, we got in front of it before the winter. Generally, on a Harley with comparable mods, 2-3 weeks will drain the battery to the point it will not start.
obviously those of us in cold weather have to put the battery on a tender over the winter storage months. Given that you've gone to the quick-connect, I presume you/your wife also put your Ryker on the tender whenever you park it.
Do you have previous experience with parasitic current draw on your Ryker draining your battery?
If so, how long between starts does it pull down to the point of needing a jump? A week? A month?
Thanks,
EV
I would say a month or so but I have never had to do it. The one time that it sat for that long it started slowly but did start. At least I nooss had a time frame to work with.
mine stood around 100 days ( two times now) without a tender or so .. but: after the restart you should make a longer trip to load her up, if not you would need "help" bei the next start !!
Did the RickD daytime running light mod (with some tweaks) and installed a remote battery tender plug in the frunk. Not bad for a rainy day BS tinkering session!
I wired the DRL right into the accessory lighting circuit, so it comes on with the bike and goes off when your marker lights go off after shutting down. I did not use a handlebar mounted switch, it is all automatic. Compliments the Elite LED headlights very well!
.......
Looks great! The color temp of the DRL is a good match with your headlights. In the charging port photo, what keeps your connector from falling out?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2021 at 06:15 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
Looks great! The color temp of the DRL is a good match with your headlights. In the charging port photo, what keeps your connector from falling out?
I wish I would have taken a picture, but I have an inline bulkhead fitting on there (think waterproof boat transition for wiring) which fit around the tender cable and under the rubber dust cover on the actual connector. It required me to remove the battery terminal connectors from the battery side of the tender harness, but they are easy enough to put back on the wires. Then, I simply used the step drill to slowly bore out the hole until the bulkhead connector was snug.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2021 at 06:14 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
I bought a windshield for my 2021 Ryker Rally Edition today now I have to put it on or pay someone to to do it for me. This is the bike and the windsheild that's oing on it.
In addition to the db buster for my two brothers exhaust, I recently installed a keyless ignition system from Digital Guard dog. The system is nice and the customer service is superb. Also installed a max mount upon which I placed my old EMGO top box. Also bought a locking fuel cap.
So far the 900 ACE is a great ride, fun to accessorize with excellent youtube tutorials.
I bought a windshield for my 2021 Ryker Rally Edition today now I have to put it on or pay someone to to do it for me. This is the bike and the windsheild that's oing on it.
Today I installed a T-rex jockey shifter. FYI, changes have been made to its design and the online installation instructions (none in box) have not been updated. But I know anyone here would be able to figure it out.
I made my own jockey shifter. Actually made a month ago but I wanted to make sure it worked well before I posted. No issues with it and I love it.
Total cost was around $45. The handle and linkage were made from a piece of 3/8 dia steel I got at Home Depot for $6. The Heim joints on the linkage were around $4 each off mcmaster carr. The frame mount is the same that everyone else has been using.
I went with the 3/8 dia rod because it's close to 10mm and it allowed me to use a 10mm die to thread the end of the shifter for a standard knob.
My Heim joints are 1/4-28 male so I tapped the ends of the linkage for them. Looking back now it would have been easier to use the 10mm die and buy 10mm female Heim joints instead. The end of my shifter handle I flattened by heating it up and pounding it with a sledgehammer to get a flattened , flared out end for my mounting hole.
The trickiest part to figure (since there is no welding) was the joint where the linkage connects with the shifter handle. I ended up finding a shaft to shaft clamp that was metric (10mm hole x 6mm hole) that I opened up to fit the shifter handle and a 1/4-20 bolt for my Heim joint on the linkage.
Creative bending came next. I also add a slight bend in the linkage to help everything line up better.
I made my own jockey shifter. Actually made a month ago but I wanted to make sure it worked well before I posted. No issues with it and I love it.
Total cost was around $45. The handle and linkage were made from a piece of 3/8 dia steel I got at Home Depot for $6. The Heim joints on the linkage were around $4 each off mcmaster carr. The frame mount is the same that everyone else has been using.
I went with the 3/8 dia rod because it's close to 10mm and it allowed me to use a 10mm die to thread the end of the shifter for a standard knob.
My Heim joints are 1/4-28 male so I tapped the ends of the linkage for them. Looking back now it would have been easier to use the 10mm die and buy 10mm female Heim joints instead. The end of my shifter handle I flattened by heating it up and pounding it with a sledgehammer to get a flattened , flared out end for my mounting hole.
The trickiest part to figure (since there is no welding) was the joint where the linkage connects with the shifter handle. I ended up finding a shaft to shaft clamp that was metric (10mm hole x 6mm hole) that I opened up to fit the shifter handle and a 1/4-20 bolt for my Heim joint on the linkage.
Creative bending came next. I also add a slight bend in the linkage to help everything line up better.
Please don't take this as some type of attack, because it isn't. I just don't understand why people make these things, unless they have short legs or leg issues to deal with. Can you explain it to me? Is it just for decoration? The thing I see the most from videos is that people try to pull it straight back and have a hard time. It travels on an arc and once you move your foot on the arc it moves easy peesy. I see people grabbing it with their hands in videos and I can't figure that out, unless they are missing a leg or the leg doesn't work right. Out side of leg issues I can't fathom why, maybe you can enlighten me.
Please don't take this as some type of attack, because it isn't. I just don't understand why people make these things, unless they have short legs or leg issues to deal with. Can you explain it to me? Is it just for decoration? The thing I see the most from videos is that people try to pull it straight back and have a hard time. It travels on an arc and once you move your foot on the arc it moves easy peesy. I see people grabbing it with their hands in videos and I can't figure that out, unless they are missing a leg or the leg doesn't work right. Out side of leg issues I can't fathom why, maybe you can enlighten me.
Same as above....knee issues ( three surgeries between the two knees), but also, it was annoying to have to stick the left foot out, find the shifter, and then pull it back. From a mechanical engineers perspective it looks like it was an after thought.
Plus, it's easy and fun to just reach forward and work the jockey shifter back and forth when turning around or backing up.
Originally Posted by Spygoat
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Ryker looks better with teeth.
