nothing in the owner manual, looking to take the front wheels to a shop to replace and balance front tires... where to position the Jack? don't like the looks of putting tha pressure on the arms connected to the front wheels? not much on youtube either... (or I'm searching for the wrong thing...)
nothing in the owner manual, looking to take the front wheels to a shop to replace and balance front tires... where to position the Jack? don't like the looks of putting tha pressure on the arms connected to the front wheels? not much on youtube either... (or I'm searching for the wrong thing...)
….The frame is always the best point from a strength standpoint ….. However I have an Auto scissor style jack that I re-moved the ring and welded a 5/8 nut to ….. to change a wheel put a small sturdy piece of wood on top of the jack so it spans both arms of the suspension close to the wheel and just lift it enough to re-move that wheel..... good luck …. Mike
pres ride
2014 RT-S
bike is WIP
bike has endured elect spike (was jump started incorrectly)
still a WIP but bike is now running and registered....swapped out 5 modules mostly sourced from Canadian wrecker
thanks, strange there isnt a easy sturdy place to jack the bike up along the road and go het your tire repaired.... so is the a arm stinger closer to the wheel?
thanks, strange there isnt a easy sturdy place to jack the bike up along the road and go het your tire repaired.... so is the a arm stinger closer to the wheel?
" stinger " ????? did you mean " stronger " …. if so Yes, try this for proof … place the ends of an 8 ft., 2 x 4 on small blocks or bricks etc. …. step on the 2x4 near the block , it doesn't move …. now step in the middle, it moves a lot ….WHY ? , because that's where it's weakest..... hope this helps ….. Mike
" stinger " ????? did you mean " stronger " …. if so Yes, try this for proof … place the ends of an 8 ft., 2 x 4 on small blocks or bricks etc. …. step on the 2x4 near the block , it doesn't move …. now step in the middle, it moves a lot ….WHY ? , because that's where it's weakest..... hope this helps ….. Mike
yes, stronger.... it was late... I'd want to think the point closest the frame would be best, but my thinking may be off. thanks, I'll mess with it today.... tires get delivered sometime today, so.... can't put this off much longer... never thought taking a wheel off could be so stressful... lol
Hey Blue Night, Just curious, What's the 5/8" nut used for? (Raising the Jack.) ....
On every scissor jack I have seen … the threaded shaft ( that when turned, raises or lowers the scissor mechanism ) … And has a metal ring at the end.... where the winding tool is inserted …. this is cumbersome and quite time consuming to operate …. I cut off the Ring and welded the 5/8 nut in it's place...… I can now use my cordless drill,( with a socket ) and this speeds things up considerably. If I use a ratchet, I can adjust the height almost microscopely...…. Mike
Some of the tightest Lugs, I've come across in a good while..... applied some anti seize for that unexpected emergency along the road... I see a design flaw...... Wheels are off, and will have the new ones on tomorrow... Thanks for the tips....
Some of the tightest Lugs, I've come across in a good while..... applied some anti seize for that unexpected emergency along the road... I see a design flaw...... Wheels are off, and will have the new ones on tomorrow... Thanks for the tips....
imho BRP exceeds their own Torque requirements ….. and I have used NeverSeize on everything since I can remember..... Mike
imho BRP exceeds their own Torque requirements ….. and I have used NeverSeize on everything since I can remember..... Mike
Yes, I use anti seize on anything I may want to take apart again. However, I now use red Loctite on my license plate nuts and bolts since I had my plate stolen a couple weeks ago. Any ne'er-do-well with a dime in their pocket can swipe a license plate.
Yes, I use anti seize on anything I may want to take apart again. However, I now use red Loctite on my license plate nuts and bolts since I had my plate stolen a couple weeks ago. Any ne'er-do-well with a dime in their pocket can swipe a license plate.
Many Years ago they use to just rip my license off my car since they are only held in with plastic and a bolt. Ended up using a steel plate and carriage bolts. Then tech screwed the corners since they still tried to steal the plates. Anti Seize and thread lock does work but not for everything
On every scissor jack I have seen … the threaded shaft ( that when turned, raises or lowers the scissor mechanism ) … And has a metal ring at the end.... where the winding tool is inserted …. this is cumbersome and quite time consuming to operate …. I cut off the Ring and welded the 5/8 nut in it's place...… I can now use my cordless drill,( with a socket ) and this speeds things up considerably. If I use a ratchet, I can adjust the height almost microscopely...…. Mike
I have a old scissor jack that came out of a 1960s era Cadillac Ambulance that has a 3/4" head on the acme threaded shaft that needs 2 men and a boy to lift (not really, but it's freakin' heavy). Probably weighs as much as one of the front tires on a Spyder.
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
Dynojet Power Commander V, Power Commander POD-300 Display, PCV Map Switch, Pedal Commander (WOW)
Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
Baja Ron's Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters
Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H
LED bars above radiator inlets
LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
Tag-Along trailer
LED headlights LED fog lights (WOW)
2" x 2" Road Lights inside front fenders
7' x 10' Cargo trailer
Garmin 396 LM GPS
RLS Cat-delete resonator with China Akropovic muffler
New Banshee AGM
M3 TPMS on front tires
Remote Control for Heated Jacket and Heated Riding Pants
Analog Clock and Analog Volt Meter
Loose Nut Behind Handlebars
I have a old scissor jack that came out of a 1960s era Cadillac Ambulance that has a 3/4" head on the acme threaded shaft that needs 2 men and a boy to lift (not really, but it's freakin' heavy). Probably weighs as much as one of the front tires on a Spyder.
I believe " Scissor jacks " for veh's. that weigh less then 4,000 lbs ( that amb. probably weighs 6,000 + lbs. ) have the ring because it's simpler ( cranking tool included ). ….Thanks for your input ….. Mike
Did you happen to notice ( in the video ) that the front tires are barely on the lift table which is not nearly as wide as the front tire spacing !!!! ………. I know Shawn likes to say Danger a lot, but I suppose He doesn't think the Spyder falling on/off the table is Dangerous ….. I can't believe that lift table wasn't made wider in the front. …..Mike
jack position to remove front wheels
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Originally Posted by Realtor
….The frame is always the best point from a strength standpoint ….. However I have an Auto scissor style jack that I re-moved the ring and welded a 5/8 nut to ….. to change a wheel put a small sturdy piece of wood on top of the jack so it spans both arms of the suspension close to the wheel and just lift it enough to re-move that wheel..... good luck …. Mike 
….. I can't believe that lift table wasn't made wider in the front. …..Mike 
