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  1. #1
    Active Member VLADI's Avatar
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    Default The removal of the shock absorber

    Hello everyone. Today tried to to lift's front shock absorber, but not what not is obtained. In General, that I need to remove a casing of the upper arm but without the damper it can not be done. Unscrewed both bolts pulled them out but the shock absorber still does not come out. In the manual it is written that you can Unscrew only the top bolt under the number 1 on the scheme but I did not succeed. Who has already removed the shock absorber ? What am I doing wrong?спайдер.jpgспайдер.jpg
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  2. #2
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    2009 GS SE5 , MDS wires and NGK Red

  3. #3
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    I used heavy duty wire ties while the shock was compressed. This way the shock stays compressed during the removal process. Now keep in mind I did this on my RT but assume it should be the same for you.

    I wrapped a wire tie on the top and bottom off the shock then a couple of vertical ties to keep the shock compressed.

    This was on the front shocks only. The rear came out easy once I lifted the bike off the ground a few inches.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    I don't see how removing the shock is any different from all other Spyders ( front ) …. I have an 24 RT and removed them 100's of times ( while designing Shock Adjusters ) even at full droop, the suspension can still droop some more after either bolt is removed ./... good luck …. Mike

  5. #5
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I don't see how removing the shock is any different from all other Spyders ( front ) …. I have an 24 RT and removed them 100's of times ( while designing Shock Adjusters ) even at full droop, the suspension can still droop some more after either bolt is removed ./... good luck …. Mike
    I agree. When changing mine I just adjusted the weight on the jack until I had zero tension on the shock bolts. Then they slide out easily. On the RTL I did not remove any body parts. A little tough getting the top bolts out due to limited clearance and needing to enlist my wife's' smaller hands. Reinstalling with the nut in front and the bolt coming in from the rear made things a lot easier. Good luck..... Jim
    2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
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  6. #6
    Active Member VLADI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I used heavy duty wire ties while the shock was compressed. This way the shock stays compressed during the removal process. Now keep in mind I did this on my RT but assume it should be the same for you.

    I wrapped a wire tie on the top and bottom off the shock then a couple of vertical ties to keep the shock compressed.

    This was on the front shocks only. The rear came out easy once I lifted the bike off the ground a few inches.
    Everything written about the Jack right under the frame to frame? Ties from the car used? I hadn't thought of them.
    We are Russians, God be with us!

  7. #7
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    My Spyder
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VLADI View Post
    Everything written about the Jack right under the frame to frame? Ties from the car used? I hadn't thought of them.
    I used a floor jack under the frame then put jack stands under the arms to support. Wire ties do work well but will need a good heavy duty type.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CopperSpyder View Post
    In the video its shows very neat little lights mounted near the wheels - Where can I buy ????
    2009 GS SE5 , MDS wires and NGK Red

  10. #10
    Active Member VLADI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CopperSpyder View Post
    That's what I was looking for!!! Thank you very much, the video helped a lot.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    I had forgotten that after you get the bolts out, you need to raise the spyder with the jack. This drops the A-arm and the shocks will slide right out. Put back together in reverse order. Using the jack, up and down, up and down, up and down is a must..... Jim
    2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
    2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
    2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
    Semper Fi


  12. #12
    Active Member VLADI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canamjhb View Post
    I had forgotten that after you get the bolts out, you need to raise the spyder with the jack. This drops the A-arm and the shocks will slide right out. Put back together in reverse order. Using the jack, up and down, up and down, up and down is a must..... Jim
    thanks. on the weekends I will try.
    We are Russians, God be with us!

  13. #13
    Active Member VLADI's Avatar
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    Hello. Slowly disassemble spider for repainting in RSS. At the same time eliminate the shortcomings of the former owner. I want to change the cable of the Luggage compartment, or rather not to change and make it there. Wait for it for a long time from the United States, in the Russian Federation it does not have anyone and it costs $ 50 + shipping. Ordered on Ali universal cable with tips d remaking Question soobstvenno in than not can to lift the lower plastic casing helm of, there 4 bolt extreme I unscrewed and Central not can not than meanness, bought together different adapters and heads and not what not zalaziet simply there is no seats. Who already removed, prompt than it is possible to Unscrew these 2 bolts? In the manual as usual Unscrew and all!!! how to Unscrew think for yourself. Incidentally I have lacked one bolt outside, I his bought he on 8mm. as generally the and the second external, and domestic why the on 10mm. although on catalogue bolts same assessment. although on catalogue bolts same assessment..форум.jpg
    We are Russians, God be with us!

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