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  1. #1
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    Default replace drive belt or not??

    Just changed the belt tension roller and found this.KIMG0342_01 belt.jpgKIMG0341_01 belt.jpgKIMG0342_01 belt.jpgKIMG0333_02 belt.jpg
    Last edited by honsfun; 11-05-2019 at 01:23 PM. Reason: add pic

  2. #2
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    Hmm... The tensile strength of the belt is in the outside chords, they're slightly compromised but not terribly so. The missing tooth piece is not so worrisome since there's always many teeth engaged at any time. I guess it depends on how you drive, conservative touring or speed merchant.

    I'd give it a go and keep an eye on it, if it showed some deterioration then replace it.
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    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honsfun View Post
    Replace the belt---you have nothing to gain by riding until it breaks. Sooner or later--things always break in bad geographic locations.
    Darrell
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Even though PinkRosePetal is probably correct I'd bite the bullet and replace it now because the picture of the damage would gnaw at my old brain every time I took off on a ride.
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    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Even though PinkRosePetal is probably correct I'd bite the bullet and replace it now because the picture of the damage would gnaw at my old brain every time I took off on a ride.
    Same here, it may last two, three more years but it may not!!!! You live in Vegas roll the dice!!
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  6. #6
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    I've seen waaayyy worse damage on belts that've continued to drive their (other brands of) motorcycles for tens of thousands of miles like that without any concerns, so I'd go with PinkRosePetal on this.

    But I would recommend strongly that you should VERY CAREFULLY check the teeth on both the front & rear pulleys for damage! Anything hard enough to get pushed thru the belt like that may have also messed up some pulley teeth in the process, and unless they are cleaned up pdq with a (light) file, you could be damaging the belt more with every pulley rotation! Of course, if either of the pulleys has teeth chewed up enough to warrant replacing that pulley, then you might as well replace the belt too.

    Still, it's clearly your choice, and if just knowing that it's there is going to worry you enough to lessen your ryding enjoyment, then sure, replace away! But seriously, these belts are pretty tough things with some 'self healing' capability as well as being up to continuing ably in their role with relatively minor damage like that you've shown us, &/or with pretty much anything short of missing entire teeth or chunks out of either side of the belt leaving frayed & torn strands exposed, so I really wouldn't think replacing the belt at this stage is absolutely essential given what you've shown us, with the the only caveat being that there's no damage to any pulley teeth! But it is your choice....
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-05-2019 at 06:56 PM.
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  7. #7
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    with Peter & PRP …. Yes it could brake in a week , a month, a year or NEVER.... Get a spare belt and figure out how you would change it …… jmho …. good luck …. Mike

  8. #8
    Very Active Member hypurone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal View Post
    I guess it depends on how you drive, conservative touring or speed merchant.
    THIS!

    I would change it.... But that's cuz I'm a hooligan when I ryde!

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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Remember, Murphy's Law.
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
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    Reliability says leave it alone. Peace of mind says change it. I do know when they fail they don't give any warning first like a noisy chain or driveshaft would. I've pushed a big bike in July in Alabama when a belt broke. Wasn't my best moment. I'd change it.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks for the input. I guess I need to change it for peace of mind. Are there any instructions on how to remove and replace. I remember I saw something that said its not necessary to remove the rear wheel to do the belt. I have a 2015 F3. Any help would be appreciated.

  12. #12
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    The hardest thing about a belt replacement is the price. It took me under an hour to replace mine. I rode mine for about 700 miles before replacement, but cancelled a longer trip
    as 1000 mile tow was something I wanted to avoid. Its your call, mine was to install a new belt

  13. #13
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    If the damage were in the center of the belt I wouldn't be too concerned and I'd ride it for a while keeping an eye on it to see if the damage changed at all. However, being on or near the edge of the belt would give me greater concern. I rode my Harley that had a small puncture in the center of the belt for several thousand miles until I sold it. Peace of mind is very important and if you don't feel comfortable, bye all means change it out.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I am also a Murphy's Law type of person. A broken belt, 50 miles away from anything is not a place I want to be in.

    If you don't replace, I would recommend keeping a close eye on it for further deterioration.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by honsfun View Post
    Thanks for the input. I guess I need to change it for peace of mind. Are there any instructions on how to remove and replace. I remember I saw something that said its not necessary to remove the rear wheel to do the belt. I have a 2015 F3. Any help would be appreciated.
    Looks like you already figured out the answer! No doubt change it! its rubber, takes a lot of stress, it is 5 years old, last but not least it is damaged.

  16. #16
    Active Member bayoubill's Avatar
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    around here where most road are curvy and there are NO shoulders except for state roads, it could well get you killed if it breaks , if you're on a blind curve stuck with no shoulder and the nearest pull off is a mile away. i wouldn't chance it.
    2015 rs

  17. #17
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Im glad I changed mine when I did. after further inspection with it off I found a tear going threw about 1/4 of the way threw the belt. It was not visible till I took it off. It did its job though and got me home from Spyders in the Hills pulling my 622 trailer. Not that hard to remove and put the new one on. Just jack up the rear on the back of the frame a regular car jack will do. No need to remove the shock bolt or the wheel. Just work it off as you slowly spin the wheel. You just have to remove the side bracket that holds support pipes and passenger peg/floorboard. It is also where you bolt the belt tentioner.
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