Today I started the install of the Signature Light. I say started because after spending hours looking for a pigtail for the power connections I was stumped on how to mounting the power module and bracket because on my Spyder, access to the OEM mounting holes seem blocked.
Maybe tomorrow I try and remove the battery to see if I can make any better headway.
12/09/2023
Its still not completed. I dropped a washer into the Abyss that is the area under the battery with the frunk liner out. I will need to replace it and remove the battery to access the area to install the bracket and power box. I want to be sure I wont lose my trip meter information to keep my OCD in check.
It looks great though!
Last edited by broderp; 12-10-2023 at 07:33 PM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Pulled off the cover and installed L/R Show Chrome foldable black flag mounts and Show Chrome seat shock. Had a bit of a time getting the new lower shock to lock onto the ball. Was happy to hear the "click" . Tomorrow will be TricLED Run/Turn/Brake strips and brake flasher modules.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
Took advantage of another nice day and installed the TricLED run/turn/brake strip lights and brake light flasher connector. Also installed a Show Chrome shorty antenna. I'm guessing it's much easier with the left side bag panels loosened.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-08-2023 at 06:26 PM.
Reason: anopther... ;-)
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
UPS truck didn't come till 2 hours after dark. Went to the shop and unboxed the Plug & Play trailer hitch and looked it over, but too late to mess with it tonight. Watched the installation videos for it. So simple a cave man could do it. Probably put it on tomorrow, if nothing else comes up to distract me. Looks like a 20 or 30 minute job. Maybe a bit longer after I run down the Loctite and see where it is hiding, and get the tools scattered.
I enjoyed the success of installing the TricLED Front Fender Reflectors with Sequential LED Turn Signals & Running Lights . . . didn't enjoy the wiring part, but I think it's an acquired taste . . .
I enjoyed the success of installing the TricLED Front Fender Reflectors with Sequential LED Turn Signals & Running Lights . . . didn't enjoy the wiring part, but I think it's an acquired taste . . .
DaddyRhino130,
What year is your spyder?
What spyder model did you get?
( off- topic, post a picture of your spyder in your signature, ).
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
I addeded the Pedal Box (from Lamonster) and the Akrapovic Exhaust to my 20RTL yesterday. Ran the machine per BRP break-in instructions for the exhaust. Unfortunately, a storm moved through last night and I was unable to do a test ride. Today is supposed to be sunny, windy, and in the mid 50's. So you know what I'll be doing today!
i just added factory heated seats on my 2021 Base RT. Next will be the turn signal lights on the mirrors.
2017 F3 LTD (SOLD)
2017 HD Freewheeler (SOLD)
2021 RT Base Upper and lower adjustable deflectors , Top case, Signature and lower lights, Baja Ron Bar, Back rest,Fobo TPMS, Garmin 396 , LED Fender lights, Rear LED turn and brake lights, Rear Brake light flasher, Rear Saddle bag LED lights, Battery tender, Lamonster Handle Bar Riser.
It wasn't as nice as it was supposed to be out it was supposed to be 56 and sunny, turned out to be foggy and 46 F. Still went for a ride to my favorite Pizza Place growing up. Rode down River Road and Clara Barton Parkway to Marios in Arlington Va.
Got me some pizza and took a smoke break at Gravelly Point and watched the planes at reagan national then head back home the same way. I was reminded of why I don't take too many trips to the city during the day. Congested as hell and lots of morons.
I was glad to get past 495 on the parkway and have the traffic drop off with it.
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
It wasn't as nice as it was supposed to be out it was supposed to be 56 and sunny, turned out to be foggy and 46 F. Still went for a ride to my favorite Pizza Place growing up. Rode down River Road and Clara Barton Parkway to Marios in Arlington Va.
Got me some pizza and took a smoke break at Gravelly Point and watched the planes at reagan national then head back home the same way. I was reminded of why I don't take too many trips to the city during the day. Congested as hell and lots of morons.
I was glad to get past 495 on the parkway and have the traffic drop off with it.
Modifying trunk on my 2012 RSS. Adding LED brake lights to 2 different trunks. LED lights all around; headlights were a bugger because my hands are too big to do it the ezy way. New custom set I picked up off Ebay.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-10-2023 at 04:15 PM.
Reason: Caps & ' 's ;-)
Got my mounting hardware last week from Spyder Extras to convert my F3S foot peg highway pegs to floorboards for my Sea To Sky, and they're now mounted up. They are a great company to deal with...
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
I finally got the nerve to start my "invasive" upgrades on my new Spyder. By evasive, I mean having to take a wrench or two to it and take off factory installed panels and fairings for the first time. Breaking the seal was a bit scary, but it was time to install my Show Chrome Auxiliary Lights.
I was not impressed with the sloppy nature of the mounting brackets in the OEM location so I made a minor modification to the mounting to assure the best alignment.
Now to deal with those yellowish headlights.....
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
It is on a battery maintainer until April 2024.
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Well, no one said it would be easy. Can-Am certainly didn't do us any favors on something as simple as changing a headlight bulb!
The required disassembly to simply change a bulb is crazy. But after installing my new auxiliary lights, it was time to get rid of the yellowish headlights. So today I installed new LED's.
At the end of the day, the yellow is gone, but I need to properly verify adjustment once the weather gets better. After the first LED install, which is simple once you get to the dang headlight, I held up a large piece of cardboard about 4 feet wide by 5 feet tall to see what how the cutoff appeared compared to the OEM bulb. They were dead on, but the LED line seemed much crisper. After installing the second bulb I compared the second to the first and it matched the first perfectly. So from about 3-4 feet in front of the Spyder I saw no need to make adjustments at this time.
Attached is the obligatory comparison pic. I didn't edit the image other than to crop it, but the LED doesn't appear as "blue" in person and the yellow did seem more "yellow" in person. Weird.
Last edited by broderp; 12-10-2023 at 07:42 PM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Sat in front of my computer reading all the posts. Spent some time thinking that I will wait for about six months before putting any "extras" on my bike which according to the dealer will be here in the Jan/Feb time frame. I will be happy to get it in March.
So, in the meantime, y'all keep posting and giving me something to look forward to.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-11-2023 at 09:34 AM.
Reason: ' 's ;-)
Sat in front of my computer reading all the posts. Spent some time thinking that I will wait for about six months before putting any "extras" on my bike which according to the dealer will be here in the Jan/Feb time frame. I will be happy to get it in March.
So, in the meantime, y'all keep posting and giving me something to look forward to.
The only downside to waiting is it may eat up riding time! I'm glad I will have all winter to upgrade, modify and be ready for the first good weather next year! I bought a couple of propane heaters to keep the garage nice and toasty whilst I strip the new bike down to do stuff.
Last edited by broderp; 12-11-2023 at 11:53 AM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
I was trying to come up with a wrench to help remove the top trunk from my 2020 Spyder RTL. The lock down knob was very hard to turn by hand. So I came up with this.
I took a 1" PVC "T" and cut the bottom with a Dremel tool to the width of the raised part of the knob. So now I have a DIY wrench that cost under $3. I have attached a pic of the finished product.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-11-2023 at 08:33 PM.
Reason: Moved Post title - they mess with Searching! ;-)
Had a LED headlight go out after three years. Such a simple job to replace one! So I put in both new LEDs and saved the working 3 year old one as a spare. I did check the air cleaner while the tupperware was off.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
Finally bought a charger/maintainer for the Spyder.
Noco Genius 1 with the 12v plug extension.
Lucky I did, as it was down on the juice. My grand plans for riding every weekend came undone, as I'm working every weekend.
2015 Spyder RT Special series Se6
Really a mutant cross between a special series and a Limited.
I put it up for the Winter again lol. Problem is, we do have a few nice rideable wx days even in the Winter here.
Retired U.S. Coast Guard 76-97
Shad bags
Lamonsters 2.0 usb dual power plate
F3 ultimate boards
LED arc lights
Lidlox helmet extender
Lamonsters top cuff with Ram ball and phone holder.
Lamonster billet sway bar end links
BRP driver backrest
LED Volt meter
BIW Cat Delete pipe
Route 129 windscreen
Today was sunny and 64° so removed the tarp, checked tire air pressures and road up to Shady Valley TN. Probably shouldn't have though, because the road all the way there still had lots of salt from a few days ago, and up on the "Snake" in the shadows the road was wet and salty. On tbe way back I stopped at a car wash and rinsed it off. Once home I went over the whole machine. Tomorrow I'll detail it a bit. Damm nice ride though.
Retired U.S. Coast Guard 76-97
Shad bags
Lamonsters 2.0 usb dual power plate
F3 ultimate boards
LED arc lights
Lidlox helmet extender
Lamonsters top cuff with Ram ball and phone holder.
Lamonster billet sway bar end links
BRP driver backrest
LED Volt meter
BIW Cat Delete pipe
Route 129 windscreen
I ordered a hand full of items earlier this month, and most of them came in before the holidays. I've got some time to burn before the year end, so my neighbor and I did some installs over the past couple of days.
BRP drivers backrest and passenger armrest. I tapped out the mount holes on the underside of the armrests for future use.
"Double-AA" LED A-arm lights, Bright Ryder trunk light, fender LED side & rear marker/turn signals (non-sequential), Amber mirror marker/turn signal lights. These light kits are going to make the Sypder much more visible to other drivers, I'm quite impressed.
TCBoone & FrogmanDave's turn signal button and shift pad, and a very nice looking double flag mount.
Looking forward to the rear trunk light kit that comes out next month. I'll install saddle bag marker lights with the trunk kit along with a USB port in place of the blank on the console.
We pulled the front tires off to do the fender light kits installations. The bike was on jack-stands, parking brake was set and rear tire was chocked for the duration of all of the light installations. When all the work was wrapped up, we lowered the bike down from the stands and fired it up to back out of the garage. When starting the bike the brake pedal went to the floor, but was back immediately on the next pump of the brake. I was able to start it & back it out of the garage, but then the system flashed "brake failure" and wouldn't let me shift out of reverse. I reset the parking brake, turned off the ignition and restarted the bike and the alarm didn't return. We didn't touch the brake system during any of our work, short of routing the light wiring to the a-arm wiring harnesses and brake lines. I rode around the blocks of my neighborhood a few times and everything felt normal, but I'd sure like to know what caused the brake pedal to act that way.
Last edited by Poppie65; 12-30-2023 at 01:51 PM.
Reason: Added equip source
We pulled the front tires off to do the fender light kits installations. The bike was on jack-stands, parking brake was set and rear tire was chocked for the duration of all of the light installations. When all the work was wrapped up, we lowered the bike down from the stands and fired it up to back out of the garage. When starting the bike the brake pedal went to the floor, but was back immediately on the next pump of the brake. I was able to start it & back it out of the garage, but then the system flashed "brake failure" and wouldn't let me shift out of reverse. I reset the parking brake, turned off the ignition and restarted the bike and the alarm didn't return. We didn't touch the brake system during any of our work, short of routing the light wiring to the a-arm wiring harnesses and brake lines. I rode around the blocks of my neighborhood a few times and everything felt normal, but I'd sure like to know what caused the brake pedal to act that way.
That first Bold bit will probably be the reason for the second!
If you took the front wheels off and leant on or moved the discs and/or calipers in any way while the wheel's were off (maybe you even touched and moved the disc juuust a tad as you took the wheels off? ) then the front pads would've been clear of the discs when you put the Spyder back down and started it up without first applying the brakes a couple of times just to make sure the pads were back in close proximity to the discs!
So that very first application of the brakes after starting the engine would've needed the brake system to push the pads a WHOLE LOT FURTHER than normal/expected just to bring the pads back to the discs, and the Nanny would see that very much longer than usual pedal travel as a critical issue with the brakes, possibly even as complete brake failure, just cos the pedal moved so far before hitting any resistance! Then turning it off and back on again let that 'once off' fault reset (but it's stored in your bike's history now!) when the brakes acted normally didn't have so much free pedal travel, so things are now back to normal.
No biggie really, and you probably won't have any issues down track either - BUT, if you take any of the wheels off again or play with the brakes in any way, just make sure that you button everything up AND THAT YOU APPLY THE BRAKES A COUPLE OF TIMES BEFORE TURNING THE IGNITION ON, just to make sure the pads are seated properly before any of the sensors start looking for things like looong pedal travel or different braking pressure at one wheel et al BEFORE you let the sensors detect that sorta thing, or your bike may record the next time as a 'repeat failure' and dump the bike into full on limp home mode!!
Same sorta thing if you ever lift any of the wheels, especially the rear wheel, into the air and need to spin &/or drive them while working on the bike - it's not a great idea to do that with the ignition on; cos if the ign's on, then the sensors are live, and any one wheel turning at a different rate to the others for long enough might convince the computers that your bike is waaaayyy out of control and spinning madly/dangerously down the road when it's not even moving!! Do you really need to know how I found out about all this stuff?!
So, your Note to Self to take away from this particular learning experience - Don't spin any of the wheels at a different rate to the other/s while the ignition is ON; and don't forget to press the brake pedal a couple of times after removing wheels &/or working on brakes & then putting it all back together & on the ground; and do that pedal pressing BEFORE turning the ignition ON just to make sure the pads are seated properly first!!
Have a Happy New Year!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-28-2023 at 10:15 PM.