Ignorant questions about jacking up the RT

[Upcoaster]

Greetings Spyderlovers!

I've browsed several posts tonight about jacking up the Spyder for maintenance and most of them seem to center on the discussion of an ATV lift (or something like it) and adapting it to the Spyder. As opposed to purchasing yet another item exclusively for working on my Spyder, I'm attempting to make do with what I have.

My plan was to run the front end up onto my car ramps then jack up the back end and rest the rear tire on a platform I made out of 2x6. Well, the ramps wanted to scoot across the garage as I attempted to roll up on them so I ended up using my floor jack to lift the front end (while a friend spotted me) then placed the ramps as seen.

As for lifting the rear, the frame doesn't seem to extend rearward enough since the trailing edge of the frame still feels as if its forward of the center of gravity (or perhaps precisely at the COG?). It got me to thinking though... "Do I really need the tail level with the front?"

The main clearance I wanted for maintenance was up near the front to facilitate an oil change. I'm thinking I just leave her right where she is and not even bother lifting the back end. Thoughts on this??

The only obvious concern I can think of is that the pitch of the bike might preclude the oil completely draining from the pan as it should.
Does anyone know where oil drain plug is placed?

• Near the leading edge of the pan?
• Closer to the trailing edge?
• Somewhere near the middle of the pan?

If it's toward the rear or the trailing edge of the pan, it shouldn't be an issue to leave the rear tire on the floor as shown.
If the drain plug is placed somewhere else, imma need a little ingenuity and coaching from y'all about about points I can safely contact with my floor jack to lift up the rear.

TIA,
David

Spyder_On_Ramps.jpg

[Little Blue]

I would raise the rear up some and then put a 2x4 or 4x4 under the rear tire. Remove the oil drain plugs and see what you get.
The next step would be go up to level and see how it goes. I use a center ATV type Jack and can not do a test for you.
If you try this please post your results....

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Greetings Spyderlovers!

I've browsed several posts tonight about jacking up the Spyder for maintenance and most of them seem to center on the discussion of an ATV lift (or something like it) and adapting it to the Spyder. As opposed to purchasing yet another item exclusively for working on my Spyder, I'm attempting to make do with what I have.

My plan was to run the front end up onto my car ramps then jack up the back end and rest the rear tire on a platform I made out of 2x6. Well, the ramps wanted to scoot across the garage as I attempted to roll up on them so I ended up using my floor jack to lift the front end (while a friend spotted me) then placed the ramps as seen.

As for lifting the rear, the frame doesn't seem to extend rearward enough since the trailing edge of the frame still feels as if its forward of the center of gravity (or perhaps precisely at the COG?). It got me to thinking though... "Do I really need the tail level with the front?"

The main clearance I wanted for maintenance was up near the front to facilitate an oil change. I'm thinking I just leave her right where she is and not even bother lifting the back end. Thoughts on this??

The only obvious concern I can think of is that the pitch of the bike might preclude the oil completely draining from the pan as it should.
Does anyone know where oil drain plug is placed?

• Near the leading edge of the pan?
• Closer to the trailing edge?
• Somewhere near the middle of the pan?

If it's toward the rear or the trailing edge of the pan, it shouldn't be an issue to leave the rear tire on the floor as shown.
If the drain plug is placed somewhere else, imma need a little ingenuity and coaching from y'all about about points I can safely contact with my floor jack to lift up the rear.

TIA,
David

Spyder_On_Ramps.jpg

Been there done that. … The reason the front ramps move when the front tires make contact is because there really isn't much weight on them ( if any )….. this can be resolved by putting the ramp on a 1/2 to 3/4 in. board and a block in front of the ramp so it doesn't slide off the board..... then the weight of the ( front half ) Spyder is on the board/ramp & it shouldn't move ….. another way is to use a long board about 8in wide, place it on the floor and attach a 2" x 4" x 60" wide at one end, place the ramps against the 2 x4..... when you drive the Spyder onto the wide board the attached 2 x 4 will keep the ramps from moving ….. As far as lifting the rear of the Spyder I have always placed my small jack under the rear shock …. I put a small piece of 2 x 4 x 6" … on the Jack pad, this is wide enough so that only the metal shock supports touch the wood. You don't want to have the weight of the Spyder on the bottom of the shock , this could bend the shock bolt and that would be a problem …… Mike

[Chupaca]

Assuming this is your 2010 RT then the drain plugs (2) are around the the left foot peg area. You have one for engine oil and one for oil tank. Being an Sm5 you have one oil filter in that same area. The owners manual has all this. As for lifting the rear end put a block across the rear shock support and lift your floor Jack and then set the wheel down on your 2x6's. Do it once and your a pro for next time...

[wmh9680]

all ?'s are good, just some better than others, we've all asked our share of dumb ?'s over the years. I did one or 2 recently

[pegasus1300]

Greetings Spyderlovers!

I've browsed several posts tonight about jacking up the Spyder for maintenance and most of them seem to center on the discussion of an ATV lift (or something like it) and adapting it to the Spyder. As opposed to purchasing yet another item exclusively for working on my Spyder, I'm attempting to make do with what I have.

My plan was to run the front end up onto my car ramps then jack up the back end and rest the rear tire on a platform I made out of 2x6. Well, the ramps wanted to scoot across the garage as I attempted to roll up on them so I ended up using my floor jack to lift the front end (while a friend spotted me) then placed the ramps as seen.

As for lifting the rear, the frame doesn't seem to extend rearward enough since the trailing edge of the frame still feels as if its forward of the center of gravity (or perhaps precisely at the COG?). It got me to thinking though... "Do I really need the tail level with the front?"

The main clearance I wanted for maintenance was up near the front to facilitate an oil change. I'm thinking I just leave her right where she is and not even bother lifting the back end. Thoughts on this??

The only obvious concern I can think of is that the pitch of the bike might preclude the oil completely draining from the pan as it should.
Does anyone know where oil drain plug is placed?

• Near the leading edge of the pan?
• Closer to the trailing edge?
• Somewhere near the middle of the pan?

If it's toward the rear or the trailing edge of the pan, it shouldn't be an issue to leave the rear tire on the floor as shown.
If the drain plug is placed somewhere else, imma need a little ingenuity and coaching from y'all about about points I can safely contact with my floor jack to lift up the rear.

TIA,
David

Spyder_On_Ramps.jpg

I have the exact same ramps and am able to drive my spyder up the ramps no problem. I then place my jack under the rear shock lift the Spyder up to level and place a third ramp under the rear wheel.

[Ex Winger]

I used 3 ramps placed old rubber car mats under them and backed the spyder up on them.Never had a problem

[PinkRosePetal]

... You don't want to have the weight of the Spyder on the bottom of the shock , this could bend the shock bolt and that would be a problem …… Mike

I think you'll find the whole rear end weight and more is on that shock bolt when the bike is in use.

However, I use car ramps under the front and leave the rear wheel on the ground and the oil appears to drain OK.
My ramps tend to slide too but resettling them on the floor usually does the trick but Ex Winger's rubber mat idea sounds worth a try.

[KosherKid]

OP:

How about backing up on a ramp behind the rear wheel and then jack up the front and add ramps under the front wheels.??

[Jdr00ejr]

I have a Craftsman Motorcycle Jack that will lift the Spyder RT and F3S both. You just have to try a few times to find the exact balance point. I don't trust it though - so I always use blocks under the tires once I get it up. For just an oil change - I've always just lifted the front of the Spyder - and left the rear on the ground and felt like I was fine with the oil change. My ramps tend to slide on me as well so what I do is set the ramp against the lip of the garage floor where it meets the drive way. It's just enough that the ramps no longer slide. Means my oil change is outside - but I don't care much about that - unless of course it's raining - then I can use my jack to raise it up instead. I do all my own maintenance on cars/motorcycles/spyders unless a flash/buds is required. My 1 craftsman jack will work on my toys.

I like the idea of the rubber mat - I may look for something cheap - and I might even build me a third ramp - backing up on 3 makes sense also.

[Bensonoid]

This works best for me.

[AeroPilot]

I prefer to run the front wheels up on the ramps, and since the driveway outside the garage slopes away, the bike is close to level when I position it about 2/3 way up the ramps. It leaves enough room to get the drain pan under and still is quite stable to wrench the plugs and inspect underneath.

Another way is to use the floor jack and just raise it about 3" for clearance underneath. The wheels still rest on the ground for stability, but there is enough room to pull the plugs and slide the drain pan underneath. The "balance point" for the spyders is about 6-8 inches from the rear of the box frame member. Just dont jack it too high without having supports under it.....

[Upcoaster]

Been there done that. … The reason the front ramps move when the front tires make contact is because there really isn't much weight on them ( if any )….. this can be resolved by putting the ramp on a 1/2 to 3/4 in. board and a block in front of the ramp so it doesn't slide off the board..... then the weight of the ( front half ) Spyder is on the board/ramp & it shouldn't move ….. another way is to use a long board about 8in wide, place it on the floor and attach a 2" x 4" x 60" wide at one end, place the ramps against the 2 x4..... when you drive the Spyder onto the wide board the attached 2 x 4 will keep the ramps from moving ….. As far as lifting the rear of the Spyder I have always placed my small jack under the rear shock …. I put a small piece of 2 x 4 x 6" … on the Jack pad, this is wide enough so that only the metal shock supports touch the wood. You don't want to have the weight of the Spyder on the bottom of the shock , this could bend the shock bolt and that would be a problem …… Mike

Thats PRECISELY the input I was looking for, Mike. A very creative suggestion about the ramps. I'll try that next time. Meanwhile, the remedy for getting the rear up in the air is also excellent. I knew I'd seen some sort of caution about the shock so I dared not go there at all. The added hunk of wood is the insight I was hoping to learn.

Thanks again!
David

[Upcoaster]

Ahh! I like that latter suggestion a lot, @AeroPilot!: Lift her to stretch the range of motion of the suspension but not enough to float the wheels in the air.

That's a really great tip! Thank you!!

[johnny canuck]

I use three wide (about 5") scissor jacks. One under each front suspension - just inside the tires and one under the shock connection at the rear. I use some flat hard rubber about 1" thick on the Jacks to prevent marring bike parts. Usually lift mine like this for winter - just so the tires clear the floor. And for Maintenance a little higher to get a drain pan under the bike. Got the jacks on Amazon. The rubber came from packing crates for UTV's/ATV's at a dealer a few miles away.

[UtahPete]

Great suggestions

[Caven]

You wrote: "I like the idea of the rubber mat - I may look for something cheap."

You'll find that people who do yoga get tired of their mats after a couple of month. In my house there must be 5 or 6 'stored' under beds. These come in useful for the task you have in mind since they're designed for gripping the floor. Ask around.

Caven

[rick_w]

I have always used 3 x 5 floor mats under the ramps. They will work fine like that.