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  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Anyone done an Oil change thru oil filler tube?

    Hi all ? As anyone done a engine oil change through the oil filler hole with a suction tube down into
    The sump , instead of removing the two oil plugs underneath . I know the car world does this method and containers show the amount of oil removed from sump . If this works it would save a lot of work and hopefully remove any crap from sump best regards Nico 75

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Although I don't own one, from the operator's guide parts manual one can see the engines, both 600 and 900, are dry sump systems. Therefore, the engine oil is contained in a separate oil tank although it is integral to the engine, and within 10 seconds of turning off the engine oil begins to drain out of the tank into the sump. A vacuum extraction device will get some of the oil out of the tank but there will still be some left in the sump that I doubt one could snake a long suction tube into; ergo, you have to remove the oil plug to get it all out.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    That method does not work on any Spyder or Ryker due to the dry sump oil systems. Does not work on cars with dry sumps either.

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    Take the drain plugs out and clean all the metal shavings off. You will be surprised especially when draining transmission. cueman

  5. #5
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    Have others experienced lots of metal on transmission plug?

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    I used the Oil extractor on my Rally at 3,000 miles and after a good run only 1.8 Quarts (About half the total volumn ) came out and I replaced same amount. I did full oil change with filter at 4,300 Miles.
    On the 900cc jetski you extract because there is NO drain and you get 2 Quarts out and replace but the engine still holds 3.4 Quarts so your only really doing about half a oil change BUT jet ski engines do not generally get the same amount of running hours.
    On the 1330 you can extract 3 Full quarts of the IF you do the extracting with a Warm Engine!

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  7. #7
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    Hi Ok thanks for advice on oil change . I'll remove drain plugs regards Nico 75

  8. #8
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    I did a 1330 recently and got nearly 4 qts out. Put in new filter and called it good! If you are one of those who plan on running the filter to 9000mi or thereabouts, but don't like the idea of running the oil that long (I'm one of those), using a suction device seems a very convenient way to pull most of it out, then refresh with new oil. I wouldn't hesitate to use this method, especially on a well broken in motor, but would want to drop the drain plugs every once and awhile. I do this with my Sllinghot too, but it has a crankcase where all the oil resides so the removal process gets it all out.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulflyer View Post
    I did a 1330 recently and got nearly 4 qts out. Put in new filter and called it good! If you are one of those who plan on running the filter to 9000mi or thereabouts, but don't like the idea of running the oil that long (I'm one of those), using a suction device seems a very convenient way to pull most of it out, then refresh with new oil. I wouldn't hesitate to use this method, especially on a well broken in motor, but would want to drop the drain plugs every once and awhile. I do this with my Sllinghot too, but it has a crankcase where all the oil resides so the removal process gets it all out.
    Exactly what I'm doing on the F3 soon. Only has 3,000 miles since last change ONE year ago so I will get it good and warm and extract 3 quarts- Add 3 quarts AND change filter. Full oil change again a year from Now.

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    Why!!

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    Exactly what I'm doing on the F3 soon. Only has 3,000 miles since last change ONE year ago so I will get it good and warm and extract 3 quarts- Add 3 quarts AND change filter. Full oil change again a year from Now.
    Why bother?
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    Why bother?
    Good point. TIME does not affect oil quality. Only miles.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    Why bother?
    Why not? I might not wash my bike as often as the next person, but if they have the time and resources to do a 60% oil change more often then its their choice so go for it.

    I didn't do a complete detail last time I washed my bike... I'll try to do a complete job next time.
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  14. #14
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    Why not? I might not wash my bike as often as the next person, but if they have the time and resources to do a 60% oil change more often then its their choice so go for it.

    I didn't do a complete detail last time I washed my bike... I'll try to do a complete job next time.
    Right- The F3 is my third Spyder and I have had 15 Jet skies and I always go above and beyond caring for them . I changed the gear box oil on the New Ryker at 3,000 miles and it wasn't due until 12,000- Cost me $7.45 for the gear oil.

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  15. #15
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    I applaud those that are diligent about maintenance on their vehicles. In my case, I look at my oil whether it is six months or two years old and decide if it looks dirty enough to change. I have never had a vehicle since the 60's where old oil made a difference in the longevity of the engine. Since I am not intending to keep my Ryker as a classic collection addition, I will treat my vehicle as I do the rest of my vehicles. Personally, I am on a fixed income in my retirement and I can find other things to use my "extra" money on. My theory is that if the vehicle operates well for the first year without any major repairs, then it is likely to continue to work well for the following years, so I don't even purchase extended warranties. This is just my opinion and it not intended to initiate an argument.

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