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  1. #1
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    Default 2011 RS SE5 not want to go into reverse or downshift

    My 2011 Se5 is not want to go into reverse, neutral or downshift by using shifting paddle, but will do the automatic downshift when decreasing speed. Any suggestions? Could it have any thingbto do with colder outside temperatures here in Northwestern Pennsylvania, it was 39 degrees Fahrenheit this morning.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Cooler temps? Not directly.

    An SE5 shifting issue with no codes? First check is oil level.


    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

    ”Freedom is not a loophole”

    F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Try This....

    Check the sifting arm attactched to the shift shaft exiting the lower left of the engine. That arm has been seen to come loose and then the spyder will start having issues shifting and eventually will not shift at all . There is a pinch bolt that hold it on the shaft which you can tighten up and correct the problem as long as the groves on either have not been damaged. Oil level is also important on the SE models. Otherwise there may be an issue with the paddle shifter or the actuators on those models.... let us know what you find.....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
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    Default

    Micro switch in the paddle shifter - maybe dirt or water in there
    2009 GS SE5 , Red (Ferrari Red :) )

  5. #5
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Since it downshift only auto and upshifts fine. It's the shift paddle switch. It needs to be replaced. Maybe $200 for the part plus labor.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  6. #6
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    Default

    Took it for a short ride today check the oil found it a little low added oil so it was at the full level. Seemed to fixed the problem but at times it seems like you have to push the paddle shifter a couples times to get it to down shift. Just washed it a couple of days ago then started acting up after that. Will try taking apart the the paddle shifter and clean it up and see if that helps. Thank you all for the advice. Any info is very helpful!!

  7. #7
    Active Member Michael211_2000's Avatar
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    I'm pretty certain you found that the switches inside the paddle shifter are sealed if you took it apart, you cannot get them dirty wet nor clean them actually. I've seen pics of one taken apart on here, the up and down switches once you get all the way in to where they are... they are sealed switches.

    And as such, I do not believe they are at fault anyways. This problem generally ends up being oxidized connectors elsewhere that need to be cleaned. Often just unplugging and plugging back together a few times resolves the issue.

    - Michael

  8. #8
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    This is absolutely correct! I thought my paddle shifter switches were bad and spent $$ for a new assembly. Took apart the old one and they are hermetically sealed. You can operate them under water. I could hear a click when moving the paddle, but wasn't sure. I wasted my money (in my case). Could have also spent $40 at a dealer to connect bike to BUDS and watch the switches operate to verify - I wish I had thought of that first! With BUDS you can watch all switches operate if you are unsure. I have read that dealers have replaced them before saying they were bad, but I often wonder if the connector gets corroded or something, as these switches are rated for millions of operations (as Michael said above). The connector, as I found out, is on the front frame and a real PITA to get to, had to get those super long needle nose pliers.

  9. #9
    Active Member Michael211_2000's Avatar
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    Just using your fingers you can pull the connector to your right and it will unhook from the mount holding it, then there is several inches of extra wiring tucked up in there you can pull it out a little so as to be able to more easily unplug spray it down with contact cleaner then plug it back together again... I did find that you have to leave it unplugged to re-mount it back to where it goes, then plug the other end back into it. Sounds more complicated than it really is. Just be gentle with it so you don't break the plastic locking clip and take your time.

    Also if you take the side panel off to check oil level, you'll notice another connector that runs vertically up from the solenoids that operate the mechanical shifter... unplug it, then re-plug it several times (I spritzed with WD-40 there also then allowed to dry before final re-plugging). My shifter is working perfectly since doing this btw! At 1 point mine wouldn't go up or down it was just stuck in neutral under my carport running.... so yeah, pretty sure most paddle shifter replacements aren't really necessary.

    - Michael
    Last edited by Michael211_2000; 03-23-2020 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Typo correction

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