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  1. #1
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    Default Oil Drain Plug Replacement 2018 RT

    Today I did my first oil change on my 2018 Spyder RT. I stripped the Torx - 45 engine oil drain plug but was able to get it out. I have bad shoulders and it was hard to hold ratchet and keep up pressure on the drain plugs. Where can I buy a transmission and engine drain plug with nut head that uses OEM crush washers and o-rings.

    Thank for any info.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimboRTS View Post
    Today I did my first oil change on my 2018 Spyder RT. I stripped the Torx - 45 engine oil drain plug but was able to get it out. I have bad shoulders and it was hard to hold ratchet and keep up pressure on the drain plugs. Where can I buy a transmission and engine drain plug with nut head that uses OEM crush washers and o-rings.

    Thank for any info.

    Jim
    Check a sponsor " value accessories " for plugs ….. I had issues with the TORX also so I changed to the " GOLD " brand.... I never had an issue with the ? trans plug ( the short one with the HEX ) ….. I have never used a Torque wrench on anything other " engine heads " …. I have never stripped a plug …. use common sense, for oil plugs if it drips just tighten a tad more …. usually works …. good luck …. Mike

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    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, both brands of the hex head drain plugs took liberty with the design to drill a hole in the end for an additional magnet. This significantly weakened the design and the plugs have a bad history of shearing off at the inner o-ring groove where they are far too thin due to the magnet hole. We will not install them as we have seen two fail, one cost a significant sum for engine teardown to remove. Nope, the correct answer is use the correct tools to remove the OEM plugs and they do not strip. I have done a great many oil changes on spyders in our shop and not stripped the torx socket a single time. The hex head plug for the clutch side plug is fine.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  4. #4
    Active Member jarvis's Avatar
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    So the correct tool is???

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    Hi
    Are you refer to Show Chrome and Gold Plug? Because of weak arms I can’t get enough up pressure on the T45 to to turn the plug out so I stripped the head. Any ideas
    Jim

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimboRTS View Post
    Hi
    Are you refer to Show Chrome and Gold Plug? Because of weak arms I can’t get enough up pressure on the T45 to to turn the plug out so I stripped the head. Any ideas
    Jim
    Hi, JC is correct about the internal magnet weakens the thread wall, there have been few that broke because they were TIGHTENED way to much.... This can happen because the person used the TORQUE specs for an OEM plug !!!! …. if you tighten them enough so they don't leak there will be No problem …. if you get a drip, just tighten it a bit more … that's how I have done EVERY oil drain plug for the past 60 years and never had an issue …. here's a tip - when removing the plug always set your Ratchet to remove BEFORE you use it..... it's easy to get confused because the plugs are up-side down and you have to remember " lefty - loosey " is reversed when the plugs are up-side down ….. Mike

  7. #7
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Correct tool is a T45 bit with an extension (6" works well) on a 3/8" drive ratchet. Assemble bit, extension and ratchet, place in plug and tap assembly with a hammer. This sets the bit and breaks loose the varnish that forms between the plug and engine body. Then break the plug loose with a snap action. Does not require any pressure inwards on the socket. The design of Torx fasteners specifically does not cause a 'twist out' of the fastner and is one of the major reasons manufacturers use them..they work with robotic assembly machines for this reason.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  8. #8
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimboRTS View Post
    Hi
    Are you refer to Show Chrome and Gold Plug? Because of weak arms I can’t get enough up pressure on the T45 to to turn the plug out so I stripped the head. Any ideas
    Jim
    Actually there are 3 brands today. Dimple, Gold Plug and Show Chrome although I think the Show Chrome is made by Dimple but not positive. They all have the same design defect as they are all copies of the Gold Plug that came out first. We will not install any of them. If one comes out in one piece, its replaced with an OEM plug and the defect given to the customer.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  9. #9
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Hi, JC is correct about the internal magnet weakens the thread wall, there have been few that broke because they were TIGHTENED way to much.... This can happen because the person used the TORQUE specs for an OEM plug !!!! …. if you tighten them enough so they don't leak there will be No problem …. if you get a drip, just tighten it a bit more … that's how I have done EVERY oil drain plug for the past 60 years and never had an issue …. here's a tip - when removing the plug always set your Ratchet to remove BEFORE you use it..... it's easy to get confused because the plugs are up-side down and you have to remember " lefty - loosey " is reversed when the plugs are up-side down ….. Mike
    I cannot say for sure how tight the ones that broke for me were as we did not install them. I can tell you if the plug cannot withstand the OEM torque spec, its a defective design without further discussion.

    For what its worth, I install plugs the same way you do, not with a torque wrench. We have also moved away from copper or aluminum crush washers and use much easier to seal, bonded rubber steel sealing washers. Much lower torque required to seal, no drips, no come backs. They can also be reused but we do not. Many OEMs have gone this direction as well.

    516rju-UhyL._SL1000_.jpg

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  10. #10
    Active Member tibadoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    .........................We have also moved away from copper or aluminum crush washers and use much easier to seal, bonded rubber steel sealing washers. Much lower torque required to seal, no drips, no come backs........................516rju-UhyL._SL1000_.jpg
    I would like to try these out. Happen to have a link or size required for the 1330?
    ----
    Joe

  11. #11
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tibadoe View Post
    I would like to try these out. Happen to have a link or size required for the 1330?
    16mm on engine side, 12mm on trans side for 1330.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

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    What is the part number for the stock drain plug for 1330 engine?
    Jim

  13. #13
    Active Member tibadoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimboRTS View Post
    What is the part number for the stock drain plug for 1330 engine?
    Jim
    I believe these are the #'s your looking for. If incorrect, someone let me know:

    Engine Oil - Screw M14 X 1.5 = Part #420441681
    Clutch - Magnetic Drain Plug M12 X 1.5 = Part #420241782
    ----
    Joe

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