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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Default Totally confused

    Ok didn’t wanna post this till solution was found, taking too long so looking for tips & advice please very odd no start situation: Tuesday while out for lil ride with a bud check engine light came on & found codes P1175 (bank 2 too rich)&C1290 (VCM) Wednesday :AM codes are gone, :PM out on errands & after last stop(6:30pm) it would not start, battery sounded low, no codes. Try jumpstart from a car no luck still sounds low; try jumpstart with a jump pack no luck sounds low. Pull battery take home & charge. Try again still sounds low. It’s now 1:15 am call AMA for a tow, get home bout 3:30a back on charge. Thursday afternoon good full charge on battery & fails again still sounds low, still no codes, pull battery take for test fails 3of 4, replace 17month old battery(out of warranty) install & charge new one (with star washers) STILL will NOT crank, did get maybe 1 revolution on engine where was just a single click with other battery. *Also of note, it skips the mode starting screen completely now but still sounds low.

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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Bummer.....

    Couple things to check.. the ground to the frame and the starter motor. If you can jump direct to the starter and it still does the same with a fully charged battery the starter may be bad. They had some starters having the magnets come loose...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Couple things to check.. the ground to the frame and the starter motor. If you can jump direct to the starter and it still does the same with a fully charged battery the starter may be bad. They had some starters having the magnets come loose...
    coming loose? Wouldn’t that just not even try to function? Mine does try, just acts /sounds like not enough voltage getting there. Have to find what panels to remove & find the starter. To my knowledge has not been removed or fooled with any of the services done on bike. Is the VCM some physical component or programming in computer?

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    The VCM is one of the black boxes hidden underneath the plastic and is also the ABS unit.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  5. #5
    Active Member rugercharger's Avatar
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    i am with chupaca on this one. starter or main ground. if you want to see if it is the ground, take a multimeter and place the positive lead on the motor, and the negative lead of the meter on the negative terminal of the battery, put the meter on dc volts. try to crank , you should not see any voltage or very little. if you do, ground is a problem.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bfromla View Post
    Tuesday while out for lil ride check engine light came on & found codes P1175 (bank 2 too rich) & C1290 (VCM)

    Wednesday codes are gone, (then later) out on errands & after last stop it would not start, battery sounded low, no codes. Try jumpstart from a car no luck still sounds low; try jumpstart with a jump pack no luck sounds low.

    Pull battery take home & charge. Try again still sounds low.

    Thursday afternoon good full charge on battery & fails again still sounds low, still no codes, pull battery take for test fails 3of 4,

    replace 17month old battery(out of warranty) install & charge new one (with star washers) STILL will NOT crank, did get maybe 1 revolution on engine where was just a single click with other battery.

    Also of note, it skips the mode starting screen completely now
    Okay, if I understand it...while riding your bike (a 2013) it started pulling codes but was running. Then, after stopping it wouldn't start although there was some sound from the starter. Charged the battery and it didn't help. Replaced the battery but no change...the starter still makes some weak noises but the engine doesn't fire. Is that about right?

    If so, it sounds to me like the starter has a problem. Either not getting enough juice to it or it's failing. As noted by others, check whether starter has a good ground and the connections are good.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  7. #7
    Very Active Member Wmoater's Avatar
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    One other thing to try. Turn on bike and see if you can put it in neutral. Rock it back and forth and move the bike about 1 foot. Then hit the starter. Many can am outlanders if the starter is stuck simply jack it forward and back.

    If you can get it into drive or reverse rack push it in gear just to nudge it. You can sit on it and rock it forward and back while holding the starter on too. I've seen and outlander do the same thing and as it started rocking back and forth it cranked one time after bouncing it back and forth it fired right up.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wmoater View Post
    One other thing to try. Turn on bike and see if you can put it in neutral. Rock it back and forth and move the bike about 1 foot. Then hit the starter. Many can am outlanders if the starter is stuck simply jack it forward and back.

    If you can get it into drive or reverse rack push it in gear just to nudge it. You can sit on it and rock it forward and back while holding the starter on too. I've seen and outlander do the same thing and as it started rocking back and forth it cranked one time after bouncing it back and forth it fired right up.
    . Has the SE5 will try anyway, but no can’t just get into neutral till it starts. (That I know of) yes the starter makes noise & does try just not enough, had no warnings either just failed one time. clean terminals on battery end, have yet to access to the starter to check there, thankfully the temps are easing up easier to work on better to ride in will do what I can here. Thanks everyone

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  9. #9
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    Are you getting voltage to the starter and solenoid?

  10. #10
    Active Member Trapdoor's Avatar
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    When this no-start problem happened to me during my 2-wheel riding days, it was always corrosion on the battery terminals and corrosion on the chassis ground point. Next time it happens, I plan to connect the negative terminal to a different ground point and see if it starts.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Anyone happen to have a wiring diagram? So I can see all components involved please. TIA

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Fyi got to test & watch multimeter Begins 12.95V everything off; turn key it skips the mode starting screen even though last attempt was some hours ago, running lights & dash on 12.5~6V push start; drops to 11.7V clicks (not clicking)heard by left foot; no start. Turn key off now at 12.3V. SUX least it’s at home & I’m getting to test myself, but it’s great riding weather now thank everyone

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    PM Sent
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  14. #14
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    load test new battery

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
    load test new battery
    passed & 360cca

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  16. #16
    Active Member spyder01's Avatar
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    Quick way to check starter is a current draw test.First you need an amp meter that clamps around the battery cable,make sure its rated for DC not AC(that would more for house wiring).Take the clamp and put it around either the big red cable coming off the battery or the big black cable or if you can get to the starter put it on the big red cable,it really doesn't matter at this point.Then while cranking motor read the meter.Now with a car engine starter which is bigger they will draw about 100 amps(ps make sure your meter can read up to at least 300 amps)Id be thinking your starter should draw at the most 60 or 70 amps.If it draws like 150 then you have a bad starter or a locked up starter which could be in the drive gear,either way youll need to get that thing out.If your test shows like 15 amps then youll need to check for voltage and amp draw actually right at the starter on the red cable.Make sure you check for a proper ground like the other guy said by putting 1 lead of a voltmeter on the negative side of the battery and the other lead on the side of the case of the engine,make sure it makes good contact.Turn key on and crank,if you see much more than a tenth of a volt you have a bad ground somewhere.Let us know
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    : 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE

  17. #17
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Take a minute and ensure all the relays are fully seated in the fuse box. Not saying that is the problem for certain, but have read about them vibrating loose on others before.

    You might also consider swapping relays from less needed circuits into the start and computer circuits, being certain they are same part numbers. This can help validate a failed or failing relay.

    Overall though, it does, based on your description sound as if the starter is failing.

    Check the easy less expensive stuff first, before guessing and replacing a high cost item.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Sorry I’m slow & let too much get in my way, however Latest update the mode screen has come back , I ignored few days rain & then fresh tires on my two wheeler. Anyway went back to try again & nothing additional removed or tested & the mode screen reappeared hopefully is good sign , still will not start, beginning troubleshooting again at a better pace double checking my process so to say. Big THANKS to HAZE for the diagram has been helpful again I just slow

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  19. #19
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Update 23 days in shop (including holidays) got it back today starter was toast & managed to not blow any fuses not really sure how, combinations of possible reasons. Glad is fixed & back in my hands. Stalling issues also resolved as the purge valve was found at fault. Also replaced. Fouled least 1 spark plug & the other was developing & at only 6k miles from last change. And of course now suppose to storm horribly all weekend has good ride bringing it home, storms will pass by soon enough, won’t be a problem another happy report for Bradford Marine Texarkana bought from & majority of services has been done, good people helpful shop. Dont even mind getting them all a lunch or two: good lil pizza place down the road helps with that

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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  20. #20
    SpyderLovers Sponsor merlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bfromla View Post
    Update 23 days in shop (including holidays) got it back today starter was toast & managed to not blow any fuses not really sure how, combinations of possible reasons. Glad is fixed & back in my hands. Stalling issues also resolved as the purge valve was found at fault. Also replaced. Fouled least 1 spark plug & the other was developing & at only 6k miles from last change. And of course now suppose to storm horribly all weekend has good ride bringing it home, storms will pass by soon enough, won’t be a problem another happy report for Bradford Marine Texarkana bought from & majority of services has been done, good people helpful shop. Dont even mind getting them all a lunch or two: good lil pizza place down the road helps with that
    Great outcome
    pres ride
    2014 RT-S
    bike is WIP
    bike has endured elect spike (was jump started incorrectly)
    still a WIP but bike is now running and registered....swapped out 5 modules mostly sourced from Canadian wrecker

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update and the details of your troubleshooting.
    Glad you are back on the road.
    Enjoy your fine weather.
    David C.
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