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Very Active Member
that short timeframe there is something eating them.
Have seen starter damage from cranking too long 15+ seconds on older cars & trucks usually overheating then a short but on starter itself, not the solenoid whatever is going on with yours, hopefully dealer can catch it in process & fix
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
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T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
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minispyder dash toy
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GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
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SENA 20S EVO
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Active Member
before you pull the solenoid off hook the battery up long enough to check the voltage on the small wires to the solenoid, with the key off, if there is no voltage on them it has to be a bad, stuck solenoid, you may have some stray voltage coming from somewhere pulling it in.
2015 rs
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Very Active Member
I think we need to isolate the problem between the solenoid and the Pre-Starting relay R2. Here's the thing - when you push the start button, the first thing that happens is that R2 energizes and closes its contact. That energizes the starter solenoid, closing its contact and connecting the starter motor to the battery. If the contact in R2 sticks closed, the starter solenoid will stay energized and the starter motor will just continue to run. When you turned off the key last night, that killed the ignition, but the bike still stays partially powered up for awhile. The R2 contact, if it is stuck closed, can still supply power to the starter solenoid until Main Relay 1 drops out 40 minutes later.
So, now that the battery has been disconnected all night, leave the key off and only reconnect the battery. If the starter motor stays off, the solenoid isn't stuck. Go remove the covers from the front fuse box and identify R2, then turn on the key. If the starter motor immediately starts to run, yank out R2. If it stops running, get a new R2. If it keeps running, then yes, see if you have voltage to the two small wires on the solenoid with R2 removed. It's coming from someplace else that it shouldn't. Maybe some harness damage someplace.
The other possibility is that overnight, things corrected themselves and you can't repeat the problem. Next time it occurs then, do the R2 test.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
By the way - the starter motor is connected to the engine crankshaft through a couple of gears and a Sprag clutch. So, you didn't over-speed the starter motor while the engine was running. Worst case is that the starter motor ran for a period of time at little to no load, just spinning those two gears. Hard to tell at this point what damage, if any, was done to it. Put that one low on your priority list.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
I think we need to isolate the problem between the solenoid and the Pre-Starting relay R2. Here's the thing - when you push the start button, the first thing that happens is that R2 energizes and closes its contact. That energizes the starter solenoid, closing its contact and connecting the starter motor to the battery. If the contact in R2 sticks closed, the starter solenoid will stay energized and the starter motor will just continue to run. When you turned off the key last night, that killed the ignition, but the bike still stays partially powered up for awhile. The R2 contact, if it is stuck closed, can still supply power to the starter solenoid until Main Relay 1 drops out 40 minutes later.
So, now that the battery has been disconnected all night, leave the key off and only reconnect the battery. If the starter motor stays off, the solenoid isn't stuck. Go remove the covers from the front fuse box and identify R2, then turn on the key. If the starter motor immediately starts to run, yank out R2. If it stops running, get a new R2. If it keeps running, then yes, see if you have voltage to the two small wires on the solenoid with R2 removed. It's coming from someplace else that it shouldn't. Maybe some harness damage someplace.
The other possibility is that overnight, things corrected themselves and you can't repeat the problem. Next time it occurs then, do the R2 test.
I will try this tomorrow morning..gotta go to work..tomorrow off..Thanx
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Very Active Member
Bummer.....
Would also check the starter button if it has malfuctioned it would be keeping the R2 relay closed...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Quik try before going to work as soon as I tried to reconnect neg battery terminal starter started spinning pulled it gave a rap to starter solenoid with a screwdriver and hammer (slight tap) and tried again no starter spinning..WTH..will try again when I get home ..did order another solenoid and the relay just in case......
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Very Active Member
BMW motorcycles used to have this occur when the battery voltage was low, don't know if it's applicable here, but you might want to check the condition of the battery. I had it happen to my wife's K75RT.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by wilpir
Quik try before going to work as soon as I tried to reconnect neg battery terminal starter started spinning pulled it gave a rap to starter solenoid with a screwdriver and hammer (slight tap) and tried again no starter spinning..WTH..will try again when I get home ..did order another solenoid and the relay just in case......
Because the solenoid is relatively new, I was expecting the relay to be at fault. But it looks like you nailed it with the hammer test. Replacing them both is a wise choice.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Active Member
if you had just checked volts on the solenoid on the energizer [small] wires, you would know for sure if the relay was bad or not. its just an electromagnet with a contact on one end.
2015 rs
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You need to disconnect the small wire on the solenoid when the stater is running...If it stops running there could be several reasons, one of which could be that relay...Just checking for voltage on the small wire while the starter is running won't work because if the solenoid is stuck engaged it could feed back that small wire post on the solenoid...larryd
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Very Active Member
I would say if your taping the Solenoid and it stops than your R2 is not the issue. Something is moving and you are getting - or + contact to the starter to by pass the relay. Wiring is moving or starter is moving so when you tap it, it loses contact with what ever it is touching. That is what I would be thinking. I once had a truck with a lose starter and when it moved the positive cable post on the back of the starter touched the frame and that created a ground and the starter would not stop until I got under there and knocked it away from touching the frame. I hope you find the problem, good luck Ill be watching this one.
My Spyder
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Weird ! brand new solenoid..if I only drive 3 miles to work could it be the battery is going /or not getting a full charge? Should I plug in battery tender every night?
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Very Active Member
I do, I always plug it in.
My Spyder
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Very Active Member
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Well drove to work next 4 days and everything is fine! I even drove a different route once nothing everything seems ok..until it does it again! still very confusing...
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This apparently is a common fault on Gold wing 1500, mine did it last week, the solenoid actually jams in the on position, after I replaced it I took the old one apart and sure enough the rod in the centre of the coil was sticking, there was no sign of the high current contacts being stuck together, sounds like you just got a second bad one. I've heard of some people using a car solenoid as the're bigger and more reliable.
You're lucky I had to have my bike towed off the motorway, it flattened the battery
I would replace the solenoid not with a BRP one.
Hope this helps
2014 RT Std
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