Suggestions please

[Wahrsuul]

I'd think the RPG might work better on the later models. I expect it would be easier to get the electronic sights set up as an app on the dashboard rather than the pain of trying to set up a HUD system on a movable windscreen.

IMHO, Rocket Launchers shouldn't be front mounted - I think the push back from an decent sized missile weapon would kill MPG, and if not mounted dead center (or - god forbid on a swivel mount for side to side aiming) might cause the front to swerve and set off Nanny. For my money, I think I'd go with - at best - a micro missile launcher with a "ripple fire" option.

[Gwolf]

I'd think the RPG might work better on the later models. I expect it would be easier to get the electronic sights set up as an app on the dashboard rather than the pain of trying to set up a HUD system on a movable windscreen.

IMHO, Rocket Launchers shouldn't be front mounted - I think the push back from an decent sized missile weapon would kill MPG, and if not mounted dead center (or - god forbid on a swivel mount for side to side aiming) might cause the front to swerve and set off Nanny. For my money, I think I'd go with - at best - a micro missile launcher with a "ripple fire" option.

Besides that, the back blast would set your legs on fire.

[LeftCoast]

I think you all are overthinking this!

[2dogs]

I believe I'm going to swap out my gages for 12v receptacles (cigarette lighter type) one on each side. Then I can insert and easily remove anything I wish. Clock, single/double USB, volt meter, light, radar, washer/dryer, furnace and whatever else I need. Seriously though I prefer versatility wherever I can find it. That's why I'd go with the 12v receptacles.

[LeftCoast]

I believe I'm going to swap out my gages for 12v receptacles (cigarette lighter type) one on each side. Then I can insert and easily remove anything I wish. Clock, single/double USB, volt meter, light, radar, washer/dryer, furnace and whatever else I need. Seriously though I prefer versatility wherever I can find it. That's why I'd go with the 12v receptacles.

I’m having trouble finding 52mm gauges

[Gwolf]

I’m having trouble finding 52mm gauges

https://www.amazon.com/slp/52mm-gauges/djnpg7ozxxaf8tg

[2dogs]

Won't 52mm's and 2"s fit the same hole?. Only 2 centimeter's difference.

[LeftCoast]

https://www.amazon.com/slp/52mm-gauges/djnpg7ozxxaf8tg

Thanks Gwolf, I actually saw these and like them but 62 bucks for a clock seemed like more than I thought I’d have to pay but maybe this is just the simplest way to go.

[LeftCoast]

Won't 52mm's and 2"s fit the same hole?. Only 2 centimeter's difference.

My understanding is yes, either should work.

[Gwolf]

Won't 52mm's and 2"s fit the same hole?. Only 2 centimeter's difference.

Yeah, they supposed to fit the same hole. If they don't the word is Dremel.

[2dogs]

https://www.google.com/search?source...=1575059858070

[askitee]

Certainly a fan of the clock, as I cant read the one in the display with my driving glasses.

Is there a specification needed for use on an MC versus car dash, where it would need to be waterproof / UV resistant?

[Revalden]

Beast Mode On/Off button for the nitrous activation.

[TicketBait]

This is what I did about 7 years ago, added volt meter and oil pressure gauge.



The volt meter still works, the oil pressure must have a loose fitting cuz it only occasionally works.

Did like the clarity and digital info that was displayed. Would do it again.

[Gwolf]

Certainly a fan of the clock, as I cant read the one in the display with my driving glasses.

Is there a specification needed for use on an MC versus car dash, where it would need to be waterproof / UV resistant?

The clock in my truck is real small and the display is in the radio screen with a lot of other numbers. I got one of the stick on battery power clocks about 2 inch by 3 inch and stuck it to the dash. It is not water proof so that wouldn't work on a motorcycle, but I did see some clocks with a clamp for handlebars on the back when I was looking and they were water proof.

[Spydermike]

I put a voltmeter with dual usb on the left to charge my phone. I bought a blank 52mm gauge and had it cut so it's a clean look. On the right I have a compass/clock/altimeter/temp gauge.

[2dogs]

I put a voltmeter with dual usb on the left to charge my phone. I bought a blank 52mm gauge and had it cut so it's a clean look. On the right I have a compass/clock/altimeter/temp gauge.

Got a link to where you found those items?

[PMK]

Regarding a compass. Not sure it matters but probably will. The instrument panel has a slight wrap to it. This will angle the compass slightly and may skew the actual heading direction on the compass by a small amount, if that matters.

I have not made any changes away from the original two gages as of yet. When looking, since we do get caught in the rain, I want to find marine gauges to help them last longer from being exposed to the elements.

My ultimate goal was finding a reasonably priced engine fuel monitoring system. Something that could show fuel flow, fuel remaining, and more. Similar to a fuel totalizer in an aircraft.

Unfortunately, at this time they do not offer something similar to the simple plug in Scangage 2 I have in my Tacoma. With that not only does it monitor codes, but I can select which parameters to continuously display. In the truck I monitor MPG, trans fluid temp, intake air temp, and coolant temp. Small unit that plugs into the OBD port and has a cable to allow positioning the display in a visible location.

[Gwolf]

Regarding a compass. Not sure it matters but probably will. The instrument panel has a slight wrap to it. This will angle the compass slightly and may skew the actual heading direction on the compass by a small amount, if that matters.

I have not made any changes away from the original two gages as of yet. When looking, since we do get caught in the rain, I want to find marine gauges to help them last longer from being exposed to the elements.

.

I installed a boat compass, made to take the elements, in my truck dash, in a completely upright position. Dash mount boat compass is made to work in that position. They are also adjustable to compensate for the metal of the vehicle, boat, or whatever they are installed in. Once it is in position, even if it is installed in a boat dash, it must be adjusted to compensate for the interference of the metal around it and also adjusted to show true north, rather than magnetic north, if that is what you want. They are made for a boat that will be exposed to salt spray and rain.

A quality compass made to mount on top of a flat surface will be either floating in liquid or if fully digital it will be designed to compensate for any off level conditions due to the angle of the craft changing when it is cruising level or up on a plane with a nose higher attitude and only a few inches of the back of the hull in contact with the water. A really good compass is certainly not cheap, but will work in most any position and be weather resistant.

I am not trying to convince anyone to install a compass, just pointing out the misconceptions about the mounting positions affecting the compass readings. I was running a small boat offshore, out of sight of land, with only a compass and dead reckoning, long before the GPS satellites were even launched and a good LORAN was more expensive than my boat.

Imagine if you can how a compass in a plane remains accurate with the plane in a bank or maybe even flying inverted. The ones to install in a Spyder dash would not be that complicated, but they can certainly function in an out of level position.

PS......... you should not try to ride the Spyder in the inverted position to see if the compass really does work that way.

[PMK]

I installed a boat compass, made to take the elements, in my truck dash, in a completely upright position. Dash mount boat compass is made to work in that position. They are also adjustable to compensate for the metal of the vehicle, boat, or whatever they are installed in. Once it is in position, even if it is installed in a boat dash, it must be adjusted to compensate for the interference of the metal around it and also adjusted to show true north, rather than magnetic north, if that is what you want. They are made for a boat that will be exposed to salt spray and rain.

A quality compass made to mount on top of a flat surface will be either floating in liquid or if fully digital it will be designed to compensate for any off level conditions due to the angle of the craft changing when it is cruising level or up on a plane with a nose higher attitude and only a few inches of the back of the hull in contact with the water. A really good compass is certainly not cheap, but will work in most any position and be weather resistant.

I am not trying to convince anyone to install a compass, just pointing out the misconceptions about the mounting positions affecting the compass readings. I was running a small boat offshore, out of sight of land, with only a compass and dead reckoning, long before the GPS satellites were even launched and a good LORAN was more expensive than my boat.

Imagine if you can how a compass in a plane remains accurate with the plane in a bank or maybe even flying inverted. The ones to install in a Spyder dash would not be that complicated, but they can certainly function in an out of level position.

PS......... you should not try to ride the Spyder in the inverted position to see if the compass really does work that way.

There is a huge difference between a quality compass and low quality compass. Having installed / replaced many compasses in aircraft I fully understand some of the details involved.

Once mounted, we are required to accomplish a compass swing, where the aircraft is aligned (one person inside positioning the aircraft and another person outside guiding the person to align the aircraft) with a calibrated compass rose painted onto the runup taxiway.

The aircraft is operated, in such a way as to induce any magnetic changes. These typically are electrical system items. The base headings of N,S,E,W are aligned and using a non ferrous tool, the compass is adjusted to eliminate as much error as possible. Once the base headings are set, the “in between” headings each 30 degrees is swung and noted. There is a maximum allowed error.

When the base headings and each 30 degrees is deemed within best settings, the noted data, is written onto a Compass Correction Card, that is placed into a designated holder on the compass itself, allowing reference if needed.

In bringing up compass designs, not all compasses are wet or as they are sometimes called a Whiskey Compass, but many are.

In a vehicle, such as the Spyder, vs a boat or aircraft, there becomes another huge difference, a simpler compass works for in many cases since the Spyder or a car will be “trapped” to follow a road.

A serious concern for a Spyder RT, if a compass is installed could be the popular magnetic mirror mounts. Any magnet, or even steel, or electrical device can sway the compass heading. The mirror mounts would likely have a definite effect. The better the compass quality, the sensitive and accurate they are.

All the best, in your decision of what compass to use.

[PMK]

Imagine if you can how a compass in a plane remains accurate with the plane in a bank or maybe even flying inverted. The ones to install in a Spyder dash would not be that complicated, but they can certainly function in an out of level position.

The true reason a compass works in an aircraft is not fully the design of the compass heading indicator swiveling on its needle point bearing surface. This designs allows for some error in technique by the pilot.

A good pilot is capable of flying coordinated turns. In simple terms there is G forces being retained as if flying a bank turn with no slips or skids. When climbing or descending often there is an angle induced into the compass, similar to a boat rolling / pitching with waves. The compass design of the heading cup, swiveling on the needle point lets this happen without binding the compass.

[spyderherb]

Machine gun triggers for front and rear. Really wish I had em.

[Bangorbob]

I know this is old, but I can't seem to find a 52mm usb charger or socket. I can find all the gauges but not this. Any help would be appreciated.

[carbonation]

Order the snap in blank plates for the dash from CanAm.
Then drill the appropriate size hole in it, and mount.
Easily reversed later on if you wanted.

[pegasus1300]

I know this is old, but I can't seem to find a 52mm usb charger or socket. I can find all the gauges but not this. Any help would be appreciated.

try this:http://www.spyderstore.com/