Thanks to Joe at Squared Away Tips Changing tire and brakes.

[Knipper]

Special thanks to Joe at Squared Away in Las Vegas, who specialize in laser alignments for spyders and other maintenance issue. He has outstanding knowledge on Can Am Spyders and was a huge help in changing my first ever rear tire and rear brake pads on my 2012 Can Am Spyder. His outstanding Knowledge in providing over the phone help in walking me through all the steps in changing rear tire and brake pads on my spyder, could not have done it without him.

Below are the pointers that he suggestion in changing the tire and pads granted I may have missed a step, but I think with watching you tube video on changing tire and pads and reading these tips will be a huge help to Spyder lovers who do their own maintenance.

By the way I used a car tire 225/15/50R half the price can am tire saved over $200.00 on the complete tire change. From post on Spyder lovers, the tire supposed to go at least 16,000 miles or longer. However, my authorize Can Am dealer would not mount a car tire on the Spyder., That's when I decided to tackle the job and thanks to Joe at Squared away made it happen, without him I would have been lost on some of these steps.

- These are just my experiences, by no means does this mean this is the only way to change a tire, or even the correct way, but I did want to share my experiences and hopefully save someone the same headaches that I had while performing these tasks. I would also watch the you tube video and changing tire on Can AM RT spyder. Which was quite helpful,

Tire removal
- Jack up the bike with floor jack be careful in jack placement so it does not damage any critical items under the bike
- Remove sensor bolt it located on left side on the bike mid-way above the belt, its 11 mm bolt, will need to use vice grips to hold the nut
behind the bolt, this bolt is not a regular size bolt that's why vice grips are used
- Remove belt just turn the sprocket clockwise and pull on the belt it will come off
- Remove the brake caliber there are 2, 11 mm bolts that hold the caliber on.
- Once removed use a bungee cord to hang it on the muffler to release stress on the lines.
- TIP BEFORE REMOVAL MAKE SURE TO TAPE UP THE BELT ADJUSTER YOU DON'T Want THEM TO MOVE them when removing the tire.
- I also removed the one bolt that holds the main shock; however I was told that was not necessary,
- If you have a hitch, you will have 19 mm axle bolt, this axle bolt in for the trailer hitch and runs through the main axle bolt
-After you remove the axle bolt from the trailer hitch use a rubber mallet and start to tap the back of the hitch outwards, the hitch
should slide off
- Once hitch is off, there will be two side plates, these plates should easily slide off, once off you will see the main 36 mm axle bolt.
- Use 36 mm wrench or large crest wrench you will need to hold the not while you turn the bolt
- Make sure when removing the tire to have the bike jacked up high enough so the tire clears the rear fender
- SAFETY be sure to use two jack stands one on each side of the frame to hole the spyder rear end while tire is removed.
- After tire is out remove the disc rotor by removing the 5 bolts.
- MAKE SURE the wheel is upright using a broom stick or wooden handle to remove the the main belt sprocket
- The broom stick goes in-between the wheel and the sprocket and just pry a little at a time and work it around the sprocket, it will come
off
- The reason for the wheel to be upright there is a small spacer inside the hub you dont wanted it to fall out pain to but back in
- Once sprocket and disc is removed ready for the tire shop of your choice, Good luck had to call several tire shops before I found one
who would change Can Am tire.

Reinstalling
-This is not as easy as removing, having a second person to help is huge benefit
- Install the brake rotor to the wheel
- Install the sprocket use Windex to spray the rubber insert to allow the sprocket to slide on. Slide on evenly over the rubber boots
- Roll the tire under the bike,
- Use a floor jack under the tire and start jacking it up to align with the axle holes
- Once align slide the main axle bolt through slowly may take a rubber mallet to get it completely though to the other side
- Once through install axle nit an torque to 96 ft pounds and insert carter pins, unless installing trailer hitch axle, then no carter pin is
necessary
- After tire installed then but the belt on, just be sure the belt is behind the axle bolt, but don't put it on until wheel installed.
- After axle bolt in place, slide on hitch and install 19 mm axle bolt through the main axle bolt
- Torque to 96 ft pounds install carter pins and slide plates.
- Check the belt tension by grabbing the bet in the middle and twisted if it goes 90 degrees the belt tension is correct
- Check belt alignment spin the wheel make the belt stays in the middle and does not wonder from side to side.

Changing brake pads with parking brake assist
- Change plenty of pads, but never with big black round circle which is parking brake assist
- When removing the pads to remove one brake cylinder bolt on the right side, the pad will slide off the other bolt once c clips are
removed.
- Once caliber is removed. take a 5/8 socket and remove the parking brake assist.
- Spring will fall out, that's okay
- Remove the rubber boot, on the shaft
- Use 7/8 deep well socket to cover the shaft on the brake assist, you do not want to damage the shaft.
- Use 8 In clamp put one end on the socket and using old brake pad but the other end on brake piston, and turn the clamp to pull the
piston back inside the cylinder to allow for the new pads
- Once the old pads are removed install new pads be sure the two c clips are installed correctly at the end of the pads.
- Once pads are installed, put back on the parking brake assist
- The other end 90 degree goes into the slot in the metal bracket thats attached to caliber
- MAKE SURE THE SHAFT IS ROTATED ALL THE WAY CLOCKWISE THIS ALLOWS THE BRAKE CABLE TO STAY TIGHT
- Have the brake cable for the parking brake assist disconnected, reinstall after pulley is on
- Once pulley is on, wrap the cable around and reattached BE CAREFUL, THE CABLE COULD COME LOSE FROM THE MAIN PULLEY BY THE
ENGINE, THIS IS WHAT HAPPEN TO ME.
- If Cable comes disconnected the fun starts have to remove 3 panels to gain access and reattached cable. NOT Fun. I know. If not you
are good to go

In case Remove panels
- Start with gripping the front of the rear-view mirror lift up and out, the mirror pulls off
- Remove 3 bolts on the mirror bracket
-Open front trunk
- Remove the tab on the black cover, twisted and pull off
- Remove front bolt.
- Pull off the can am panel
- Bolt on the bottom remove
- Lift the seat, take one bolt out, three other bolts along the top that need removed
- TIP DO NOT REMOVE THE TWO SLIVER SCREWS THESE ARE TABS THEY PULLOUT
- Open saddle bag, remove 3 screws and the one on top,
- Panel should slide off,
- There you will see the front pulley for the parking brake assist.\
- That's all good luck

[cptjam]

Glad to help! If you get stuck on a project, call. If I can help, I will. Be safe! I’m so glad this worked out. Joe

[RICZ]

Would the processes be the same on a 2017 F3L? For wheel removal/replacement and pad replacement?

[PW2013STL]

Would the processes be the same on a 2017 F3L? For wheel removal/replacement and pad replacement?

The axle torque for yours is 166 foot pounds.

Do not use a c-clamp on your caliper piston. Yours requires the piston to be screwed back in. You maybe able to do that with a needle nose pliers pushing in as you turn the piston. You will see the two holes in the piston that the tips of the pliers go into. Baha Ron also sells a nice tool for this that you use a socket wrench with, and he sells better brake pads as well.

[RICZ]

Thank you for that info. You + Knipper = a great help.

[Purple Guy]

Joe is a Prince among men!
Always has time to help a DIY'er out!