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Up date on k&n
Hi all just an update on K&N two filters ordered and meanwhile I have drilled 2 1/2 holes in the front where air is forced in to increase more air flow ( hovered bits of plastic out ) I know K& Ns are more noisy but Ryker is a noisy engine ( and I wear ear valves ) regards Nico 75
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Need pics, where are the holes?
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Hi DanWill the holes are drilled in the front smooth part which are in the middle of the thin plastic lines that's about the best I can describe them regards Nico 75
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Nico75
Hi all just an update on K&N two filters ordered and meanwhile I have drilled 2 1/2 holes in the front where air is forced in to increase more air flow ( hovered bits of plastic out ) I know K& Ns are more noisy but Ryker is a noisy engine ( and I wear ear valves ) regards Nico 75
Why would u do that? Im sure the engineers at BRP designed the air box to get the desired amount of air. If it isn't broke, dont fix it.
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Originally Posted by duke50
Why would u do that? Im sure the engineers at BRP designed the air box to get the desired amount of air. If it isn't broke, dont fix it.
Some people are always looking to make a better mouse trap. Engineers are not the only component in a product. If they were, things would be much different. You also have marketing and finance which many times have a greater impact on the final product than do the engineers.
Not saying that drilling holes, as Nico75 has, is a good idea. But it is a myth that products should be left alone because they have been engineered to the best possible outcome.
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Curious...🤔
Looking at the parts list on cheapcycleparts.com it is a bit hard to understand where the holes were made. The ( what is called the air intake silencer) has three parts. the box, filter and cover. Over the cover is the body panel. Any hole made in the box would bypass the air filter and any hole made in the cover would be restricted by the body panel though there cold be added air flow to some degree. Was there a sound change after making the holes..? let us know the difference when the K&N's are installed....
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Hi duke50 if you consider the K& N air filters which allow more air flow , then the more air the engine receives into air box , sucked by throttle movement improves engine response . I am fitting 2 brothers exhaust (cat removal + weight ) 17lbs lighter ie more power with less weight , more air intake = HOT RYKER. Anyway that's what I'm doing. Regards Nico 75
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K& n
Hi ok the 2 holes are in the air filter cases which can be detached to change filters , in the front of these cases are plastic ribs , this is where I drilled the holes to let a BIT more air in regards Nico 75
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Looking at the parts list on cheapcycleparts.com it is a bit hard to understand where the holes were made. The ( what is called the air intake silencer) has three parts. the box, filter and cover. Over the cover is the body panel. Any hole made in the box would bypass the air filter and any hole made in the cover would be restricted by the body panel though there cold be added air flow to some degree. Was there a sound change after making the holes..? let us know the difference when the K&N's are installed....
I'm with you. Having trouble seeing where holes would #1- Do any Good & #2- Where exactly the holes were made. Best I can determine would be in the louvered intake horn. Since this is the designed intake path, it wouldn't create a problem.
CVTIntake.png
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Hi BajaRon you've got it ( at last ) holes made in smooth part thankfully Nico 75
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Very Active Member
2 half inch holes eh? That'll make a huge difference I'm sure - to how you feel.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Freddy
2 half inch holes eh? That'll make a huge difference I'm sure - to how you feel.
I think he wrote 2.5" holes. Not sure though because it wasn't clear.
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Further K& N
Hi the air holes are 1/2 in dia x 2 in each housing regards Nico 75
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You must realize that if the K&N's show any improvement at all (seriously doubtful) it would only be at the highest RPM's with full throttle, ie the highest possible intake airflow. Accurate MAP (manifold air pressure) recordings would tell the truth.
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
'20 Spyder F3 L
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Originally Posted by old Timer
You must realize that if the K&N's show any improvement at all (seriously doubtful) it would only be at the highest RPM's with full throttle, ie the highest possible intake airflow. Accurate MAP (manifold air pressure) recordings would tell the truth.
The advantage to the K&N for engine air intake is more the much longer service interval and that they will probably last the life of the vehicle than for a performance increase. As for the CVT application. We've already had an owner who's transmission ran too hot because the air filter got clogged and was not flowing enough air to properly cool the components. Because a K&N is so much more clog resistant than the OEM paper filter, this could be a real advantage.
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I’ve put K&N’s in both, I know they are the last air filters I will buy for this trike so performance increase or not I’m happy with them already. Oh and my bike has been mid mods since the filters were installed so I couldn’t tell yet if there is any performance increase. Driving it later today though!!
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Hi old timer any throttle opening from closed to wide open will allow more air to pass through a K& N filter as opposed to paper standard one ( no I don't work for K& N any suction with less restriction is better best regards Nico 75
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Originally Posted by Nico75
Hi old timer any throttle opening from closed to wide open will allow more air to pass through a K& N filter as opposed to paper standard one ( no I don't work for K& N any suction with less restriction is better best regards Nico 75
The restriction of the Air Flow is a function of the required volume of Air. At low RPM's even at full throttle the air flow demand or requirement is strictly the function of the RPM of the Engine. Remember, that the intake Air Requirement is created by the down stroke of the Piston, ie the amount of air required is only that required to fill that piston. Think a bucket and filling it with water then emptying it and refilling it again and again. The faster you have to do this the bigger hose or higher water pressure is required to completely fill the bucket. To imagine higher water pressure, think forced induction (Super or Turbo Charging). As higher volumes of water is required (think RPM rising) the reduction in impediment to water flow is required (think hi RPM). Its all simple physics.
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
'20 Spyder F3 L
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Member
This is a good site that tells the facts about air filters including K&N, this is why I won’t buy anything that has a K&N air filter on it when I’m looking at it, https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
It’s quite a bit of reading but is a real informative site.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by duke50
If it isn't broke, dont fix it.
If it isn't broke make it better, I also like to tinker. I bet the engineers cringe at some of the things they have to do to comply.
2012 RT A&C SE5
2015 Victory Cross Country (Dyno tuned 118hp 116tq)
2006 Triumph Rocket Dyno tuned 140hp 154tq)
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
The advantage to the K&N for engine air intake is more the much longer service interval and that they will probably last the life of the vehicle than for a performance increase. As for the CVT application. We've already had an owner who's transmission ran too hot because the air filter got clogged and was not flowing enough air to properly cool the components. Because a K&N is so much more clog resistant than the OEM paper filter, this could be a real advantage.
Ron, do you know anyone who has had their oil sent in and analyzed after using an OEM air filter for 9k miles and then once again after installing and using a K&N air filter for 9k miles?
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Originally Posted by 2dogs
Ron, do you know anyone who has had their oil sent in and analyzed after using an OEM air filter for 9k miles and then once again after installing and using a K&N air filter for 9k miles?
I have done quite a bit of testing and a number of customers have also sent me their results with Amsoil as well as BRP and a number of other lubricants. I know several of these customers are running the K&N or similar aftermarket air filters. But I have not done a comparison. I also switched to a K&N air filter for about 20k. And now I am running the JT air filter. I have not had the JT filter on long enough to have done an oil change. But there was no difference in the oil analysis from switching out to the K&N air filter in my case. And I would assume that if there had been any difference attributable to the air filter allowing more contaminates into the system. It would have shown up on customer's data sheets as well.
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To be fair adding a K&N will not give you anymore more performance.. free flow filters and straight through pipes need an ecu remap to see any gains..will prob sound faster and use more fuel as ecu tries to make it run at factory settings... however you do gain by being able to reuse them..
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I have done quite a bit of testing and a number of customers have also sent me their results with Amsoil as well as BRP and a number of other lubricants. I know several of these customers are running the K&N or similar aftermarket air filters. But I have not done a comparison. I also switched to a K&N air filter for about 20k. And now I am running the JT air filter. I have not had the JT filter on long enough to have done an oil change. But there was no difference in the oil analysis from switching out to the K&N air filter in my case. And I would assume that if there had been any difference attributable to the air filter allowing more contaminates into the system. It would have shown up on customer's data sheets as well.
With all the commentary I've read about K&N filters vs OEM filters, I've never come across any valid information as to overly contaminated oil as the result of using K&N air filters. A lot of speculation but no conformation. I'm going to send my oil in for evaluation on my next oil change and compare the results to my first two test results. Thanks Ron.
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