Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 111

Thread: No compression

  1. #76
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krakum1967 View Post
    I have a stock exhaust off the 2012 Can Am RS-S. I would be happy to let you have it for shipping costs...my wife and I call get the quote together by the weekend, but I definitely have one on hand, and I am not going back to stock....I like my rides noisy. Let me know if it works for you, and I am happy to help.

    And I also want to mention your dedication to this project is very admirable, and you did outstanding work IMHO. Thanks for sharing this journey with us, and thank you to all the experts providing resources and guidance on this, it really should be required reading for new owners. I know I learned a ton.
    Get me the number if you dont mind and ill see IF i can. Id imagine shipping that thing might be expensive.

  2. #77
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Where does all your bikes temps sit at? I mentioned mine seems to be a bar above half way. Is this normal?

  3. #78
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    98
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lively View Post
    Where does all your bikes temps sit at? I mentioned mine seems to be a bar above half way. Is this normal?
    Mine runs 1/2 but not necessarily a comparable since actual temperature may be different. Maybe borrow or if you have a temperature gun to check return hose? If the temperature stays at that point and doesn’t fluctuate is likely ok?

  4. #79
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Update and concern: I cleaned or tried to clean the exhaust. still had a little smoke but didnt let it run too long because i am hearing something odd. When i pull on the throttle slowly i hear a hiccup as if its starved for air, but then after the hiccup the rpms jump back to where its supposed to go. It also backfired twice on me. LOUD POP (only one) and shuts off. I am low on fuel, but there is fuel. It is 91 octane. Any suggestions?

    Also im also seeing some smoke (little) coming from the connections (where they connect to the muffler, the connections from the motor to pipes are good), maybe i have it too loose or too tight? Or perhaps the gaskets are no good anymore? thoughts?

  5. #80
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Australia; Sth Aust, Adelaide Hills
    Posts
    9,515
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    If the fuel you have remaining in the tank has been sitting around for a month or more, then it sounds like it's time to top it up with some fresh fuel & give it a run!

    Fuel that sits in an almost empty gas tank tends to collect condensate fairly quickly; and any temperature variations while it's sitting will make that condensate collection even worse AND tend to 'evaporate off' the most important bits of the fuel too! This is especially so for gas with ANY percentage of Ethanol in it.... and unless it was stated otherwise at the point of sale, there's a good chance that there's some Ethanol in most gas sold thru a bowser these days! So while it might look clean & smell sorta OK - hey, it might even let the engine run for a bit.... but gas that's been stored in a partially filled tank for anything more than about a month is no longer 'the good stuff' and is very likely to result in things much like those you've described!

    Top it off with fresh gas and give it a run, doesn't hafta be a really long run or hard ryding or anything like that, just aim for a reasonably gentle local ryde of maybe 30 minutes or so, but do try to give it a little bit of every thing except lugging along & try to keep the throttle varying somewhat rather than just sitting at a fixed setting/speed. You could even do a little circle around the place so you aren't ever too far from home, just make sure you've got fresh gas in there & that you run it for long enough to give everything enough chance to warm up fully.

    Good Luck!

    Ps: if you've had those exhaust connections apart, or even just moved them without fully disconecting them, and especially if you've had any oil &/or solvent inside the pipes &/or muffler, then that 'smoking from the joins' is quite a common thing on re-starting. It is usually just the contaminants introduced during the work you just did burning off, and the smoke'll usually go away in that 30 min test ryde mentioned above cos the contaminants have all been burnt out of the system! It's usually only when it continues well beyond that or that the smoke starts to get significantly worse that you need to look further.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-20-2019 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Ps:
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  6. #81
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I think it's time to refer to reply 51 & 52
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  7. #82
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,300
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Fresh fuel is a great plan.

    Leaky exhausts can sometimes make the engine lean pop, but not typically pop then die.

    More likely the throttle bodies may need a good cleaning. While off, replace the two vacuum hoses known to cause poor running. Also while off, look closely at the rubber spigots for tears or rips. Sometimes not easily seen unless the spigot is flexed.

    Consider too, use a volatile, but not harmful to surfaces spray products and check for vacuum leaks.

    My bet is on the throttle bodies and a vacuum leak first.

  8. #83
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Freddy View Post
    I think it's time to refer to reply 51 & 52
    Why would i do that now? It is now starting and running while holding perfect idle. Its just some fine tuning... i dont think a little backfire is worth replacing a whole engine.

  9. #84
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    300
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lively View Post
    Why would i do that now? It is now starting and running while holding perfect idle. Its just some fine tuning... i dont think a little backfire is worth replacing a whole engine.
    Fill it with fresh fuel and give it a good run...get on with it! ...you know you want to!
    Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
    Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.

  10. #85
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    98
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Too many things that will cause it spit back through intake? As mentioned previously fresh fuel is priority! Then start with easier things first, ignition timing, inspect wires, plugs connections etc. Intake seals and vacuum lines as previously suggested. Leak down test. Cam timing.

  11. #86
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,300
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Agree on ignition leads also.

    If it were me, fresh fuel, Visually inspect spigots or spray them while engine is running, REPLACE vacuum hoses. All that is low cost.

    Regarding plug wires, on any engine, not just the Spyder, plug wires can deteriorate over time while still looking good. What happens is they leak and cause misfires. The high voltage spark will take the path of least resistance. At low rpm and low loads, it may fire the plug. As you open the throttle, cylinder pressures increase and can be enough the plug will not fire but rather the high voltage jumps through the weakened wires insulation to ground.

    Possibly bad wires and an idiot first owner did the original damage.

    I believe you are almost there, but as I mentioned, provided the engine does not make metal during normal use.

  12. #87
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,300
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Not sure if you are aware, it may require removing the throttle bodies and cleaning them. Never accomplished this on a Spyder myself, but know that a few mechanics are saving owners a lot of money by cleaning vs replacing.

  13. #88
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    98
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Agree on ignition leads also.

    If it were me, fresh fuel, Visually inspect spigots or spray them while engine is running, REPLACE vacuum hoses. All that is low cost.

    Regarding plug wires, on any engine, not just the Spyder, plug wires can deteriorate over time while still looking good. What happens is they leak and cause misfires. The high voltage spark will take the path of least resistance. At low rpm and low loads, it may fire the plug. As you open the throttle, cylinder pressures increase and can be enough the plug will not fire but rather the high voltage jumps through the weakened wires insulation to ground.

    Possibly bad wires and an idiot first owner did the original damage.

    I believe you are almost there, but as I mentioned, provided the engine does not make metal during normal use.
    Yes yes and yes!
    Another thing most overlook including myself! Many many years ago, I built a very nice small block Chevrolet for my street race car. Brand new, it wouldn't start just spit back every now and then. I had never had an engine not start right up before. I did the process of elimination, changed ballast resistor, ignition box, distributor, checked valve lash, cam timing and still the same. Remember everything is new! Last thing I checked, In my mind a waste of time as they were new, was the Champion spark plugs. Low and behold everyone was fowled! One too many pumps on the 850 Holley double pumper with 2- 50cc accelerator pumps. I used Autolite in my V8s always after that and never had a problem. Just a FYI I had the center electrode come loose and slide almost all the way out, fortunate it didn't make it out, Champion plugs, I should have switched then.

  14. #89
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lively View Post
    Why would i do that now? It is now starting and running while holding perfect idle. Its just some fine tuning... i dont think a little backfire is worth replacing a whole engine.
    Perhaps because of this:I did find ALOT of metal in the filter and filter housing which i assume came from the stuck valves and cam bearings.

    But I truly hope you're in luck.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  15. #90
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    @freddy Yes but I’m assuming and hoping that it’s from the cams and bearings that were replaced and that most the metal came out and the rest comes out next oil change in a few days-weeks. Currently waiting on the exhaust @krakum1967 before I try/test anything.

  16. #91
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Good luck with it Lively - I hope it works out ok. Have a safe and happy Christmas.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  17. #92
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    248
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Hoping Lively has the exhaust by the weekend, I got it to the PO today and it should make Grand Junction tonight, its all freeway from there.
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



    Only Two States Left to Visit on MC or Trike, RI and CT
    2012 RS-S , Baja Ron Plug Wire Kit and NGK Iridium Plugs Grey and Black

  18. #93
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Did a short 10 mile run, 6 miles of freeway. Got up to 70 and stayed around 70 everything seemed fine. Only thing I noticed was in low rpms in 1st I heard a tick tick that went with the Roma ONLY when moving and it came right near the shifter. On the road the temp is at 4 bars at idle it stays at 5 bars. Totally weird to ride, different from anything I’ve ever ridden before, some sounds are a little different too. Engine sounds different than my bike but I don’t think it’s a bad thing just a little different than what I’m used to. Idle is right about 1400, haven’t figured out how to use reverse yet.

    Next I’m going to do another oil change or at least filter it out to check for contamination. Every no and the I do get a hiccup in the air box that stuffers the idle when blipping then throttle but not consistent. Overall I think everything’s looking good IMO. Let me know if anything I mentioned is not normal and I’m wrong haha, and let me know what you guys think I should do or what idk lol I feel like I’m nearing the finish line.

  19. #94
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,300
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lively View Post
    Did a short 10 mile run, 6 miles of freeway. Got up to 70 and stayed around 70 everything seemed fine. Only thing I noticed was in low rpms in 1st I heard a tick tick that went with the Roma ONLY when moving and it came right near the shifter. On the road the temp is at 4 bars at idle it stays at 5 bars. Totally weird to ride, different from anything I’ve ever ridden before, some sounds are a little different too. Engine sounds different than my bike but I don’t think it’s a bad thing just a little different than what I’m used to. Idle is right about 1400, haven’t figured out how to use reverse yet.

    Next I’m going to do another oil change or at least filter it out to check for contamination. Every no and the I do get a hiccup in the air box that stuffers the idle when blipping then throttle but not consistent. Overall I think everything’s looking good IMO. Let me know if anything I mentioned is not normal and I’m wrong haha, and let me know what you guys think I should do or what idk lol I feel like I’m nearing the finish line.
    Very cool. Yes, keep an eye on the oil drains for metal, filter too until you get some hours on it. As for the acceleration lag, not sure if you did or did not replace the vacuum hoses, but that should be done, is easy and low cost. Upgrade to silicone for longevity.

    The rolling noises, they will share what they are over time. Guessing brakes, but check the lug nits and rear axel for tightness. Might even verify the belt is tracking well. Other than that, fingers crossed you get to enjoy it, and the effort was worth it.

  20. #95
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Okay one little thing @pmk. Figured out to get in reverse to put it in garage without pushing up steep driveway. after i got it inside i noticed some white smoke coming from exhaust. Wasnt super thick or anything, bike was left off a little over an hour and only had 2 bars on the gauge. Could that have just been precipitation like you get from a car? Its 55 degrees outside. i think it is just want an opinion as it did it earlier but not while riding and warm, just not 100% since it never cooled completely but did cool to the touch as i was able to put my finger in the exhaust to see what it smells like which was nothing.

  21. #96
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    436
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lively View Post
    Did a short 10 mile run, 6 miles of freeway. Got up to 70 and stayed around 70 everything seemed fine. Only thing I noticed was in low rpms in 1st I heard a tick tick that went with the Roma ONLY when moving and it came right near the shifter. On the road the temp is at 4 bars at idle it stays at 5 bars. Totally weird to ride, different from anything I’ve ever ridden before, some sounds are a little different too. Engine sounds different than my bike but I don’t think it’s a bad thing just a little different than what I’m used to. Idle is right about 1400, haven’t figured out how to use reverse yet.

    Next I’m going to do another oil change or at least filter it out to check for contamination. Every no and the I do get a hiccup in the air box that stuffers the idle when blipping then throttle but not consistent. Overall I think everything’s looking good IMO. Let me know if anything I mentioned is not normal and I’m wrong haha, and let me know what you guys think I should do or what idk lol I feel like I’m nearing the finish line.
    Ticking near the shifter may mean front pulley going bad?? On mine it ticked when accelerating, stopped when decelerating. Got worse and REAL loud after only 100 miles. Splines on pulley were worn off. Pulley covered in red dust. Just a thought.

  22. #97
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    248
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Hey Lively!!! Great news and progress, and I hope you were pleased with the exhaust. The RSS in my shed does have exhaust condensation steam if that's what you are describing, and yes, they ride like a Snowmobile on the road. If you have not ridden a Snowmobile, I could never explain the Can AM ride other than its something you have to do to experience....lol....I would also do the canister removal if you have not done it, it cut down on my exhaust condensation.

    hope all is going well, and it was nice to read the updates.
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



    Only Two States Left to Visit on MC or Trike, RI and CT
    2012 RS-S , Baja Ron Plug Wire Kit and NGK Iridium Plugs Grey and Black

  23. #98
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    248
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Oh, and you might want to change the vacuum lines on the injector bodies. I have to do it to mine yet, but I am waiting on my new CNC Air Intake to come in to tear it down, I guess you have to pull the air box to replace the vacuum lines. My friends here and the dealer recommend doing this to smooth out idle on the 998 as well.
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



    Only Two States Left to Visit on MC or Trike, RI and CT
    2012 RS-S , Baja Ron Plug Wire Kit and NGK Iridium Plugs Grey and Black

  24. #99
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    @krakum1967 thanks so much! I am gonna do the Vacuum lines, and ill look into the canister removal.

  25. #100
    Active Member krakum1967's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Western Colorado
    Posts
    248
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    @lively, I have my next project in the batters circle....

    https://spyderstore.com/index.php?ro...&product_id=50

    I have one on my trike, but I helping a friend with his....

    He has HEAT in his shop....lol, I am a carport guy, so its my "off season"

    Ohhh, I found a LED deal, the are a cheaper brand, but I got a pack of four 6 inch single row LED Drivers light (with 6 LEDs per light bar). 25 dollars with free shipping. I am putting one on the BMW Funduro On/Off Bike I have, than I will put the second one on my 2013 Triumph Thruxton, and two on the Can Am. I can mount them on the A-arms like the ones on there now. Once I do that, the LED Spotters will be moved onto the nose. I want to mount them in the empty fog lamp areas on the RS-S. I Might opt for a single light on the front spoiler on the nose of the bike, I can easily put one there, but not two.

    I cant wait for warmer weather, we are two weeks out. I also have OEM parts going up for sale, I will have the Can Am ones listed here.
    Kraig B. Kumlin, M.M., M.C.P. (Retired)



    Only Two States Left to Visit on MC or Trike, RI and CT
    2012 RS-S , Baja Ron Plug Wire Kit and NGK Iridium Plugs Grey and Black

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •