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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Markubis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RykerUSA View Post
    For what it's worth, with the new belt I am not getting any clunking. Life is good.
    Seriously? The new belt removed any clunking when going into gear from Park? How about switching between Reverse and Forward?

    Did you notice any difference between the OEM belt and the Gates belt as far as size, durometer, etc?

  2. #27
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    I'm really pisses off. 200 miles from home in my new belt is starting to slip at highway speeds. The Web said my belt was fitted for the ryker rally but something tells me that was wrong

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RykerUSA View Post
    I'm really pisses off. 200 miles from home in my new belt is starting to slip at highway speeds. The Web said my belt was fitted for the ryker rally but something tells me that was wrong
    Reading the reviews on the Gates belt, there are a lot of dissatisfied customers. Early reports were very good. But follow-ups were not glowing, to say the least. Might be best to stick with the OEM. Too bad. I was going to give the Gates belt a try.
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  4. #29
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    I tried running a Gates on my snowmobile and I hated it. Squeaked like crazy and would cause the sled to creep while stopped. I now only run OEM.

  5. #30
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    I'm no longer pissed. It wasn't a belt problem. Bad tank of gas and engine was hesitating whenever I rolled on the throttle. After new tank of gas, all it well!!

  6. #31
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RykerUSA View Post
    I'm no longer pissed. It wasn't a belt problem. Bad tank of gas and engine was hesitating whenever I rolled on the throttle. After new tank of gas, all it well!!
    That is good news! It would be great if the Gates belt ends up being a good choice. All I have to go on right now is the mixed reviews. Those are not always trustworthy. Gates usually produces a quality product.
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  7. #32
    Active Member Smokes's Avatar
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    Belt life is primarily determined by the amount of power it handles. Given that the 900 has about 50% more power than the 600, the 900 will generally require more frequent belt replacements than the 600. This will vary enormously of course: a 900 that is carefully driven will have a longer lasting belt than a 600 that is driven hard.

    The moral is: if you want longer belt life, take it easy folks. If you're using your Rally like they show in the videos [drifting etc] you can expect to replace your belt more often.
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  8. #33
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    The saga continues. Latest hypothesis. It was not bad gas. As I run the tank below half full, the engine starts the hesitate at higher speeds as I rolled the throttle on. Sounds like engine being starved for fuel. Manual calls for new fuel filter at 12000 miles. This started to occur at about 11200 miles. I'm going to put a new filter on today to see if it solves it. Sure hope it's not a bad fuel pump as I understand they are on back order.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokes View Post
    Belt life is primarily determined by the amount of power it handles. Given that the 900 has about 50% more power than the 600, the 900 will generally require more frequent belt replacements than the 600. This will vary enormously of course: a 900 that is carefully driven will have a longer lasting belt than a 600 that is driven hard.

    The moral is: if you want longer belt life, take it easy folks. If you're using your Rally like they show in the videos [drifting etc] you can expect to replace your belt more often.
    The belt speced for the Ryker 900 is the same belt speced for the Ski-Doo 850. That is a 2-stroke motor that puts out about 165hp and it would constantly be put under hard acceleration conditions. It's also the same belt speced in the 900ACE Turbo in the Ski-Doo's that run about 150hp. Those belts hold up well in those situations. I don't think the Ryker with half the hosepower is going to tax them all that much.

  10. #35
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    From the looks of the belt that I'd cook off my machine, I absolutely agree with you. Looks to me like they can go well over 12000 miles.

  11. #36
    Very Active Member chris56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez View Post
    The belt speced for the Ryker 900 is the same belt speced for the Ski-Doo 850. That is a 2-stroke motor that puts out about 165hp and it would constantly be put under hard acceleration conditions. It's also the same belt speced in the 900ACE Turbo in the Ski-Doo's that run about 150hp. Those belts hold up well in those situations. I don't think the Ryker with half the hosepower is going to tax them all that much.
    someone told me, that the belt for the 900Ace Turbo fits on my Ryker 900 but is "stronger" (KEVLA) and a little more expensive .. good for Ryders who use different mappings on their Engines .. so I hope the metall-parts in the CVT are strong enough ?? (9.000 miles on mine - no problems till now)
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  12. #37
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    I don't think the drivetrain would have any issues with the 900Ace Turbo. The clutches are the same as the ones used on the snowmobiles with the 900Ace Turbo. The gearbox is different but I assume its has similar parts. My personal opinion (or maybe hope is better) is......The ryker was designed from the beginning to accept the 900Ace Turbo engine (it just requires room for the small turbo, the other engine dimensions are exactly the same). BRP intends to offer this engine in the Ryker platform at some point. When it does I believe BRP will market this model as a true high performance Ryker with better suspension (stiffer swaybar, maybe Elka, Fox or M2 shocks standard), Brembo brakes, etc. Yes this Ryker will cost more (not be an entry level low buck model) but that's OK because a lot of Ryker buyers want more performance but are not interested in the F3 chassis line of bikes. The catch is. I don't think they will offer the 900Ace Turbo in the Ryker with the same 150hp it has in the snowmobile. BRP seems to detune engines for the "on-road" segment so my guess is it will have somewhere around 125hp?

    All speculation of course

  13. #38
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    Turbo? I must be getting old because I haven't found a road around here that will allow me to go over a 100mph which I can get with my slow-slow Ryker Rally. Ran my Harley up to 100mph once on a toll road in Panama and decided to cross that off my bucket list and slowed down. Never been up to a 100mph since. Being retired, I'm not in any hurry to get anywhere anymore even though it's nice to jump the line once in a while when I get a green light. I usually keep my speed down to five over the limit.

  14. #39
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    The turbo has nothing to do with top speed. It's quicker acceleration I'd like.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez View Post
    The turbo has nothing to do with top speed. It's quicker acceleration I'd like.
    You get a good deal on tires? Share it.

  16. #41
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    I just had my CVT belt inspected today on a Rally after over 21,000 kilometres. They compared it to a new belt and couldn't see any difference. No wear or damage as they recommend replacement at 20,000 klms.in the manual Now they will leave it until a warning light comes up on the screen.

  17. #42
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    I also run K&N CM-9910 High-Performance Replacement Air Filters for the motor and CVT intakes which may give better cooling for the CVT belt.

  18. #43
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsprod View Post
    I also run K&N CM-9910 High-Performance Replacement Air Filters for the motor and CVT intakes which may give better cooling for the CVT belt.
    And you may not run like a crazy man, that to would make a difference, there are all kinds of reasons the belt is wearing well! I find the same thing with my snowmobiles, some people have a hard time making one season with a belt, some run it two, three seasons, it's all in how you drive!!! Act like a foul and beat the snot out of it and your light will come on soon. But there's one thing some people that have not had snowmobiles don't know is that a cvt system is more than just changing the belt, you should make sure to keep your clutches clean, there's a lot of belt dust and any road dust that the filter system may not catch that should be cleaned out. That dust will get into your clutch and start to bind, and wear your dogs and sheaves. then the clutch will start to shift bad a not preform well!
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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by RykerUSA View Post
    The saga continues. Latest hypothesis. It was not bad gas. As I run the tank below half full, the engine starts the hesitate at higher speeds as I rolled the throttle on. Sounds like engine being starved for fuel. Manual calls for new fuel filter at 12000 miles. This started to occur at about 11200 miles. I'm going to put a new filter on today to see if it solves it. Sure hope it's not a bad fuel pump as I understand they are on back order.
    Did you ever get the problem figured out?

  20. #45
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    Yep, failing fuel pump. It couldn't produce the pressure needed for higher speeds. Replaced pump (not whole assembly) and no problems since.

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