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Thread: Oil leak

  1. #1
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    Default Oil leak

    My 2013 RT has developed an oil leak on the right side of the engine.
    Went down there to check and it seems to be coming off of what it looks to me like the water pump.
    Can you tell by these pictures if I'm right?
    I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow but I'd like to be prepared so any advise will be greatly appreciated

    1.jpg
    2.jpg
    water-pump.jpg
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

  2. #2
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Sure looks possible.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    It does look like it. If it is the water pump oil seal. It will be coming out the leak indicator hole mark as 1 in the picture you attached. I would clean it. Then go for a drive and see where it is coming from for sure. If it is the water pump seal. You can't just replace the seal. The drive shaft and both seals need to be replaced as a set.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Oil leaks.....

    Oil leaks are hard to pin point once it has run out and gotten wind blown around the engine. Back in the day we would clean the engine or area in question and spray it with Arid extra dry that dries into a white powder. Start the engine and wait for the trail ....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  5. #5
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    After a nice clean up I was able to figure out the leak is from the clutch.
    The bottom part of the large rubber gasket is where the drops are coming from.
    Can this be replaced alone?
    I found the part number (420651242) (see #3 on the diagram) but I'm wondering if there's anything else that needs to be done once I open it.

    Thank you all!

    clutch gasket.jpgIMG_7374.jpgIMG_7375.jpg
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

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    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Stupid question, maybe. But, did you check the bolts to see if they're snug? It's a total long shot since when leaks begin the gasket is usually compromised, but being a rubber o-ring style gasket you could get lucky and snug it down and stop the leak. Otherwise it looks to be a straight forward job.
    2020 RTL SE6

    Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6






  7. #7
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    Not a stupid question really... I did not check for that.
    I’ll make sure to do it today.

    Thank you!
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

  8. #8
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    So, since I had already purchased the gasket I decided to go a head and replace it. That seems to have stopped the leak.
    It did take a few hours but mostly because I did not have the right hex key to remove those 8 bolts.

    The only problem now is that my Harbor Freight lift broke when I was bringing the bike down. They changed their warranty to 90 days only so apparently is now ready for the scrap.
    Luckily the bike was almost on the ground and I only used it to put the bike up on the ramps.
    IMG_7405.jpg IMG_7392(Edited).jpg
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Good job on the repair. On the lift take it to a weld shop and have it welded and re enforced.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
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    Glad you didn't get hurt...this stuff is inexcusable...looks as if the welds weakened the material around the weld and it gave way and tore....could have been quite costly.

  11. #11
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    I’ve been meaning to do a follow up on this.
    The problem I think is the release valve on the jack. You can’t control the speed when lowering the load so if you let go off the pedal midway down the load will jerk up and down very badly adding a lot of stress to the frame.

    I have a jack from the company I used ti work for which brings the load very slowly. I remember we asked China to put a better valve in there because of this issue. I will swap it up this weekend and see how it works.

    Unfortunately I never saw the actual valve so I can’t tell if it’s just a smaller O-ring that was added to get this done.

    And yes it was very scary to see that thing broken off after bringing the bike down.

    By the way, HF did replace the unit, even after the warranty was expired and I added extra warranty this time jus to be on the safe side.
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    I have one of those jacks and found that if you press the pressure relief pedal all the way ---- it lowers slowly. Counter intuitive. You newer jack may not have this feature though.

    Lew L
    Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.

    2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
    2014 RTS , Circuit Yellow

  13. #13
    Active Member jcaburto's Avatar
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    I’ll give that a try.

    Tks!
    Julio Aburto



    Black Currant 2013 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited

    2013 RTL , Black Currant

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