Ryker Spark Plug Upgrade

[BajaRon]

As I was fighting this problem it did cross my mind to create a flat spot on that cross member. I only have a flat file that was too fine for the job. Maybe if I had a Dremel I would have done it. But consequences? And didn't know it was a solid piece or not.
Some Rykers may have a little more clearance at this area due to dimension stack up of all parts assembled leading to this area. As if maybe all/most parts are on the plus side of dimensional tolerance it would be a no go (like mine) If parts are on minus side of tolerance may a go but tight fit. Sorry about trying to be a Techno Weenie. Raising the clam shell does take more time but less frustrating. Just plan on doing this job when it's raining anyway. (nothing better to do)

I was thinking the same thing when you were describing how bad your issue was. Any change at all in the wrong direction would have made my front plug impossible to change. So I can see your situation happening.

The frame member is mild steel tubing. So you would likely go through the the wall to get enough space to remove the coil. I am not sure it would really compromise integrity enough to be a concern. These frames are usually over-engineered for strength. This, being just a cross member might safely be slightly compromised. I would be willing to do it, if necessary. But I want to be clear that I am not advocating this as a solution. Just thinking out loud for work-a-rounds. Other options should be tried first. It is very important that we NOT create a new problem in our efforts to solve an existing problem. Been there, done that!

Since I am sure the engine is rubber mounted. I am wondering if prying a bit in the right location might move the engine forward, and or tilt it forward enough to manage the extraction? It would not take much. I know there are other automotive situations (like my Chevy Venture), where they recommended prying the engine forward to access the rear bank of spark plugs. Awesome engineering that!

I am sure Can-Am installs this motor into the frame completely assembled. So they don't encounter any issue in this regard. Making a 'Dimension Stack' as you describe, very possible. They would never notice it in production. Surely, moving that cross member rearward 1/4" or so would not create any new issues. And it would certainly fix this one. I hope Can-Am is taking notice.

[SportsterDoc]

No issue changing spark plugs on my 2020

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ng-spark-plugs

The plug change was primarily for longevity...perhaps 50,000 miles on the iridium, based upon Ryker cruising RPMs double of most vehicles which expect 100,000 from iridium spark plugs.

I have not yet refueled after 100+ mile ride today, but overall MPG gained from ride, even on the Interstate at 80 MPH.

Probably better than 34 MPG.

Pulling grades at 7,000 to 8,500 feet (~25% HP loss from 2,200 feet at home) seemed stronger. Too subjective for a real evaluation, but same location as traveled several times now. Ambient and humidity close to same as previous.

What I did notice was the rear end breaking loose when opening throttle at 40 MPH in normal mode at 2,200 feet elevation.
Switched back to Eco mode and it did the same.

So, there may be some HP improvement.

Bottom line, is the plugs should not need replacement for probably 5 years.