Not to start any debate, or brand of oil thread....but merely a specification question. It's storage time for the summer stuff in Wisconsin, and that's typically when I like to change oil in everything prior to being stored. My question is regarding oil specs. Is an oil that meets JASO MA2 specs for the 2016 Spyder RT 1330 SE6 "superior" to a typical synthetic motor oil such as Mobil 1 or Valvoline, Castrol, etc... Full Syn. motor oil? It would be awesome if I could buy just one type/brand of oil that would work in everything I own. Does anyone do that? Does a JASO MA2 oil offer any less protection or properties than the common full synthetic engine oil? My thought is if it's good enough for the 2016 RT SE6, then it should be good for a 2012 Ford Escape, 2016 F150, and A Cub Cadet riding mower, and a rototiller. etc.....Am I nuts to think this way? Could a guy just use one oil for everything?
motorcycle oil with JASO MA2 you will not find on automobile oil. they have friction modifiers that you don't want in MC. the closest oil I use is Rotella T6 10W-40 has JASO MA2 and other matching spec's for MC oil. I use it in Spyder and my Honda NT700
You will need to check what weight oil is called out for your car and truck. A lot of the newer cars call for 0-20 weight oil and the Spyder calls for 5-40..
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
I run the Rotella T-6 5w40 weight in the 1330 Spyders, a Kubota diesel tractor, and my smaller lawn tractor since they turn over better in winter. I keep Mobil 1 5-20 for the newer Subaru and Hyundai. Good thought though.
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
Yeah Fords like the 5w-20. I don't really question the weight as much as the protection factors/properties/specs. I've dug around a bit more on a couple sites, and there is chat that the properties that protect the clutches in the Spyder may not be sufficient for wear protection and lubrication of the typical gas engine. Hmmmm
motorcycle oil with JASO MA2 you will not find on automobile oil. they have friction modifiers that you don't want in MC. the closest oil I use is Rotella T6 10W-40 has JASO MA2 and other matching spec's for MC oil. I use it in Spyder and my Honda NT700
" Rotella T-6 …. 10w40 " ….. I've only heard of " 5w40 " ……. and Yes it is JASO MA2 …… check your container …. Mike
Oil threads are always contentious so you'll need to sift through all the views and make your own mind up. Personally, I run 3 motorcycles plus two Spyders and I don't use motorcycle specific oil in any of them. I've done this for a number of years and many thousands of miles with no issues. However, the oil I use is not the latest energy conserving oil. It's a Mobil 1 product and I'd have no issues using it in a car because that's its intended market. For my cars, it's big diesel engines and so is my boat so I standardise on a lubricant for them too. I buy this oil in bulk quantities so, since I have it in stock it goes into my small machines also.
With regard to viscosity I consider it to be of lesser importance provided it is of a heavier grade rather than lighter than recommended. The reasoning for this is that the lower number is the viscosity at 40°c and the higher number is the viscosity at 100°c. But, for example, if a certain application recommends a 10-30 oil but a 10-40 oil is used, if you look up viscosity tables a 40 oil is considerably thinner @ 100° than a 10 oil at 40°. So if the 10 oil thickness is ok then the 40 has to be ok too since it's thinner than the 10 but slightly thicker than the 30 @100°.
Also, most multigrade oils loose a substantial amount of their original viscosity in a few hundred miles of use so a 10-40 will soon be close to a new fill of 10-30.
I've used these viscosities as an example not a recommendation. The same reasoning can be applied to different viscosities also.
I use Delo 400 15-40 in everything except the 17 F150 and it gets whatever they use at the dealer quick line. That's Spyder, wing,tractor, side by side, 55 F100 and various lawn devices
Oil threads are always contentious so you'll need to sift through all the views and make your own mind up. Personally, I run 3 motorcycles plus two Spyders and I don't use motorcycle specific oil in any of them. I've done this for a number of years and many thousands of miles with no issues. However, the oil I use is not the latest energy conserving oil. It's a Mobil 1 product and I'd have no issues using it in a car because that's its intended market. For my cars, it's big diesel engines and so is my boat so I standardise on a lubricant for them too. I buy this oil in bulk quantities so, since I have it in stock it goes into my small machines also.
With regard to viscosity I consider it to be of lesser importance provided it is of a heavier grade rather than lighter than recommended. The reasoning for this is that the lower number is the viscosity at 40°c and the higher number is the viscosity at 100°c. But, for example, if a certain application recommends a 10-30 oil but a 10-40 oil is used, if you look up viscosity tables a 40 oil is considerably thinner @ 100° than a 10 oil at 40°. So if the 10 oil thickness is ok then the 40 has to be ok too since it's thinner than the 10 but slightly thicker than the 30 @100°.
Also, most multigrade oils loose a substantial amount of their original viscosity in a few hundred miles of use so a 10-40 will soon be close to a new fill of 10-30.
I've used these viscosities as an example not a recommendation. The same reasoning can be applied to different viscosities also.
So there's my take on it. You decide.
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING …. Oil for automobiles can contain Friction Modifiers …. and according to BRP specs they can damage your clutch….. so the OP's use of them is a very BAD idea...…. Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-01-2019 at 11:03 PM.
Reason: Deleted lost quote command?!
Only some automotive oils have friction modifiers. If it doesn't say energy conserving in the api circle it's fine. Generally any thing 40w and up is no problem.
Rotella T6 5W40 is about as close to a universal oil as you will find. It is certified for far more oil usage specs than many other oils.
We use it in all Spyders, my diesel truck, my Z06 vette and my wifes Explorer (not all fords call for 5W20). Also in wifes Harley (engine only, not trans or primary) and our whole home gen set. But the universal thing all depends on what the specs are for your various engines.
It is best to use the correct lubricant for each application. A JASO rated oil gives up some attractive capabilities to accommodate the wet clutch in motorcycles. Everything is a trade-off.
It is likely that you will be sorry if you use a non JASO MA2 rated oil in your Spyder. Other wet clutch applications may be able to survive a lesser JASO rating. But you will give up some attractive benefits of a non-JASO rated oil specifically engineered for an engine only application in your car or truck. I am not saying that a JASO rated oil will not work. But you will be sacrificing better lubrication, improved slipperiness, fuel mileage, and sometimes, added protection for expensive emission components. Not to mention recommended viscosity.
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING …. Oil for automobiles can contain Friction Modifiers …. and according to BRP specs they can damage your clutch….. so the OP's use of them is a very BAD idea...…. Mike
More specifically, Mike. The BRP manual does not state not to use motor oil because it causes damage, it states not to use a specific classification of motor oil because it may damage the clutch and the clutch will slip. Here is a snap from the lubrication section of the workshop manual...
The oil classification can be read off the oil container so it's not difficult to know. Also, if you have a mind to, you can normally find the data sheet for a specific oil on either the oil supplier's website or the oil manufacturer's website and this will give you a general specification listing the characteristics of the oils; its actual viscosity at 40 and 100 degrees, its TBN (Total base number which is a measure of its alkalinity and gives a clue to its ability to neutralize acids.), its zinc and phosphorus content, (Anti-wear and anti-scuff additives.) and various other data.
As an example, here's a link to Castrol's data sheet library, just type in the product name of the oil you're interested in, click on 'Product Data Sheet' and then click 'Search'.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
A bit more misinformation, Mike. The BRP manual does not state not to use motor oil because it causes damage, it states not to use a specific classification of motor oil because the clutch will slip. Here is a snap from the lubrication section of the workshop manual...
Interesting interpretation, Soooooooooooo a slipping clutch is NOT Damaging...…. good luck with that ........ Mike
As an addition to what Spyderlass said and in answer to the OP, most of the big players in the oil industry produce multi application oils specifically to satisfy the need to rationalise personal oil stocks. Some of these lubricants can deal with engines from large earth moving plant down to road vehicles. I use one of these, Fuchs Titan Unimax Ultra MC. Here's a link... https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/special/...mc-sae-10w-40/
I know Castrol also make a similar product because I used to use it. But I can't remember it's name...erm...
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
Interesting interpretation, Soooooooooooo a slipping clutch is NOT Damaging...…. good luck with that ........ Mike
Aha, well a wee apology from me because I felt I was being a bit harsh and went away to edit my post but you got in before I'd finished proof reading it so sorry about that. You could go back and read my finalised post though.
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#1: Refer to rule #2.
So, just to clarify....my hope was to use Rotella T-6 in everything...NOT the other way around. I wouldn't attempt to use a NON JASO MA2 oil in the Spyder, but rather use Rotella T-6 in everything else.
So, just to clarify....my hope was to use Rotella T-6 in everything...NOT the other way around. I wouldn't attempt to use a NON JASO MA2 oil in the Spyder, but rather use Rotella T-6 in everything else.
Guess it all just depends on what your 'everything else' is. For me it does.
Aha, well a wee apology from me because I felt I was being a bit harsh and went away to edit my post but you got in before I'd finished proof reading it so sorry about that. You could go back and read my finalised post though.
Thank you for doing that …. not everyone does and some advise has caused catastrophic damage to other members Spyders … we all have to own what we give advise about …. I try to stay within my knowledge scope …… Mike
I use Rotella T-6 in all my vehicles. 04 Roadstar, 15 Kowasaki, 04 diesel Excursion, 13 Ford Focus, Ingersal tractor. Best all around oil in my opinion.
I just wanna buy ONE oil
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2015 rs
Originally Posted by Woodaddict
..... Mike
