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  1. #1
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Default What weight oil?

    My 2015 RT Ltd. calls for 5W/40 semi-synthetic oil. I will be using full synthetic and at least 10/40. I would like to use 20w/50 since it gets kinda hot here in Florida, even in the winter. Any great damage or terrible terribles if I go to the 20w/50?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member SteveLaoyster's Avatar
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    I'm sure others will reply but 20w50 I think is a bad idea. Stick with 10w40.
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Weight is only one thing to look at. Make sure you have the correct application specifications. Never use "Energy Conserving. "
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    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    20w50 is too thick for a dohc engine with long, hydraulic tensioned timing chains.

    5W40 is the correct weight for use up to 125deg F. Does it get hotter than that in Florida?

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    How much more do you know about the Rotax 1330 ACE engine than the engineers who designed it? Reread the left column of pg 123 of your operator's guide, specifically the API service codes and the warning notice.
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    5w-40 is what is called for. Shell Rotella T6 synthetic meets this spec. So do many other oils. 20w-50 in unnecessary. Use the weight recommended by the maker.

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  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Engine Oil

    Use 5W40 oil as per your OM....
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  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Sometimes manufactures sell what they have and not necessarily what is best. 10w-40 is a better fit for the Spyder unless you need to leave it outside overnight in sub-zero temps.

    I know we are talking about the 1330 ACE motor here. But for example; the 998 Rotax was originally used in the Aprilia. That same exact motor (with the exception of some tuning differences) required 20w-50 oil. But in the Spyder, BRP recommended 10w-40 because that is what they sold. Then, when they went to a 5w-40, that weight oil was recommended because they no longer carried a 10w-40. BRP covers everything from Snowmobiles to water craft with a small line of lubricants. Their lubricant line used to be much more expansive.

    While the oil that BRP recommends for the Spyder is adequate. It is far from ideal. It is a Castrol oil which you can buy at Wal-Mart for a lot less, though you won't be getting it in a BRP bottle.

    It's the upper number that is most important. Not that the lower number does not matter. But you're going to spend 99.9% of your miles relying on the upper number to remain constant. Which it doesn't. Oil quality is the determining factor as to whether the specs can be maintained and for how long.

    I have hot climate customers using 20-50 oil in their Spyder without issue. I still think 10-40 is a better fit for the Spyder. You're not going to be racing it, wide open throttle all the time like the Aprilia, nor will you be having it sit in sub-zero temps very often as would be the case with a snowmobile.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 08-10-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I live in Las Vegas (gets hot here too) and 10W40 Amsoil does a fine job here.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Your choice...

    While living and working in both Texas and California we used 20w-50 on all the bike we sold. Texas did get pretty cold during the winter but never an issue. At best a recommended longer warm up and you were good to go. To be honest.... have not seen any oil related failures outside of clutch issues for the wrong oil used or contaminated oil from fuel/coolant leaks. Middle of the road use the 10w When I lived in Florida I always used the 20w-50....
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  11. #11
    Active Member ricford's Avatar
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    My 2017 GMC Sierra 5.4 uses 0W 20. That large engine requires the thinner oil to flow past something (sorry don't know the name of the part) and if you use a thicker oil, it will not flow and the engine will miss. Just mentioning that thicker oil may not be better. Just sayin', go with the manufacturer and you'll not have a problem,

  12. #12
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveLaoyster View Post
    I'm sure others will reply but 20w50 I think is a bad idea. Stick with 10w40.
    You think it’s a bad idea tell us why

  13. #13
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron14y View Post
    My 2015 RT Ltd. calls for 5W/40 semi-synthetic oil. I will be using full synthetic and at least 10/40. I would like to use 20w/50 since it gets kinda hot here in Florida, even in the winter. Any great damage or terrible terribles if I go to the 20w/50?
    No it’s ok to use 20/50 I use Amsoil V Twin Racing Oil you can go the full recommended 9200 miles with this oil

  14. #14
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    I have been using 10W40 semi synthetic Diesel oil in my wifes 2010 for years now and it works great. I change it every season along with the filter. The specs on Diesel oil are better than most motorcycle oils higher sheer resistance and viscosity drop.

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    we had a post in aus about this not long ago and a brp aus master tech says he seen the wet clutchs have issues using car engine type oils.to the point of needing a clutch repair.the rating he mentioned was jaso ma 2.i did a bit of checking and its a thing that gets overlooked.i spoke to a few bike shop here and they all said to use jaso spec oils with wet clutch packs.apparently it helps the clutch packs more so than the engine.and yes he recommends using the oem spec oil.apparently its the friction modifiers used in car type oils that cause the issues.
    i have always used a full synth valvoline oil in my 2014 rt ltd.i scanned it with buds the other day and got a clutch synchronisation error that had been in history for a while.he thinks may be due to the car oil i use.so im swapping over to jaso spec oils from now on.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Live a bit further south than you, so it does get hot here. Mobil 1 10w40 4t motorcycle oil. Certainly shifts better and is one of the better rated oils by a very experienced and truly independent source. Rates better than the Rotella and other oils mentioned here. When I last checked, the applicable Amsoil had not been tested.

    Having the multigrade oil with a narrower spread typically tends to increase oil resistance to shearing. These engines could run total crap oil and be fine. The gearbox is what destroys the oil and requires the best protection. Yes the cam and lifter setup is not easy on oil, but the gearbox is worse.

    Run what you prefer, but 50wt seems excessive, even to save the gearbox. Also the clutch will be more sluggish to clamp tightly.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Stu your tech is correct in that many car oils have friction modifiers. Always look for the JASO MS 2,that will ensure that your oil is wet clutch safe. In the US Shell Rotella T6 is a good inexpensive car/diesel oil that is also rated JASO MA2 and works very well I our Spyders. I am sure there are similar oils in Australia. Peter you know more about what's available in Oz.

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  18. #18
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Default Oil Question

    I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 spyder and I use Valvoline 4T 10 W -40 full synthetic oil motorcycle oil in my spyder.

    My Question is: What does the "T" stand for?

    Deanna




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  19. #19
    Very Active Member hypurone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 spyder and I use Valvoline 4T 10 W -40 full synthetic oil motorcycle oil in my spyder.

    My Question is: What does the "T" stand for?

    Deanna
    It "loosely" refers to "stroke", as in four stroke vs two stroke.... Don't ask me why they chose a T for this designation!

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  20. #20
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    T stands for technosynthese which is an additive to make your gearbox run smoother. 4 = stroke, T = Synthetic
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  21. #21
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
    It "loosely" refers to "stroke", as in four stroke vs two stroke.... Don't ask me why they chose a T for this designation!

    Thanks! In Oct. my spyder goes in to hibernation until next year ( From Oct.to April) during the winter months. Then I am on the sleds from Dec. to March.

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  22. #22
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CopperSpyder View Post
    T stands for technosynthese which is an additive to make your gearbox run smoother. 4 = stroke, T = Synthetic

    Question: I have the Valvoline 10 W 40 Full Synthetic ,Motorcycle Oil, with out the 4 T. Can I use the 10 W 40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil with out the "T"?

    Deanna




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  23. #23
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    Question: I have the Valvoline 10 W 40 Full Synthetic ,Motorcycle Oil, with out the 4 T. Can I use the 10 W 40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil with out the "T"?

    Deanna
    AS loge as it meets or exceeds the rating in your manual for the 1330 I think its SN. here is a good article on oil https://bestsyntheticoilguide.com/sy...le-oil-review/
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  24. #24
    Active Member Baron14y's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    Question: I have the Valvoline 10 W 40 Full Synthetic ,Motorcycle Oil, with out the 4 T. Can I use the 10 W 40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil with out the "T"?

    Deanna
    As long as it says "motorcycle oil" and meets JASO MA/MA2, you will be OK.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deanna777 View Post
    Question: I have the Valvoline 10 W 40 Full Synthetic ,Motorcycle Oil, with out the 4 T. Can I use the 10 W 40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil with out the "T"?

    Deanna
    4T means 4 stroke, not 2 Stroke, thats all.

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