RT622 Wheel Bearings

[Air Force PAO]

Howdy, y'all,

I have limited time this Saturday to inspect my RT622 wheel bearings and replace them if necessary.

So...what size socket do I use to remove the wheels? If I need to replace the bearings, can I find them at Autozone?

Thanks in advance.

John

[trikermutha]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K1-150-2-00...l/111709525286

Remove cup,remove cotter pin,pliers or crescent wrench will get the nut off.

[Cruzr Joe]

Be sure to check both (front & Rear) sets of bearings on both wheels


Cruzr Joe

[PMK]

Be sure to check both (front & Rear) sets of bearings on both wheels


Cruzr Joe

Agree.

Be prepared to clean the axles also, not only of grease, but possible light corrosion. Use maroon Scotchbrite pad for that.

I cleaned and repacked our RT622 bearings recently. Installed Bearing Buddies. Some here are not fans of Bearing Buddies, but done correctly, they work well.

[Little Blue]

Just a TIP, You should check all bearings. If you find a 'Bad Bearing/Race' replace everything for that wheel. I would recommend doing both wheels....

[SpyderAnn01]

Just a TIP, You should check all bearings. If you find a 'Bad Bearing/Race' replace everything for that wheel. I would recommend doing both wheels....

Or just replace the entire hub, a fairly inexpensive item in the world of Spyders.

I would not count on Autozone having replacement bearings, you need a bearing supply store.

[Air Force PAO]

Thank you all. This is great information.

John

[PW2013STL]

Here you go.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...r-RT622-owners

[trikermutha]

The hub is around 80 bucks if my memory is correct.

Dont forget the seals.

Let us know if you see rust on and around the axle.

[PMK]

Wanted to add, a short while back I helped another local rider replace the bearings on his RT622 trailer.

The design of the hub was machined so there was no lip to catch and drive tne bearing cup out of the hub. The crew hear gave a slew of methods. Anything from run and electric welded bead around the race to the guy was clueless and they come right out. To remove the cups, I had to use a carbide rotary file spun by a die grinder, and created notches that allowed the punch to seat and the bearing cup was driven out.

Mentioning this to let you be aware of possible extra tasks to accomplish a simple task.

[trikermutha]

I managed to get mine cups out with a chisel/punch. I know the angle made it almost impossible to remove that way but I did it get it done.

Got lucky not having to use a grinder

[PMK]

I managed to get mine cups out with a chisel/punch. I know the angle made it almost impossible to remove that way but I did it get it done.

Got lucky not having to use a grinder

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the bearing cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

[PW2013STL]

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the besting cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

The two times I have done the races I used a blind hole puller with a 5 pound slide hammer. This worked great!

[PMK]

The two times I have done the races I used a blind hole puller with a 5 pound slide hammer. This worked great!

Again, you were simply fortunate there was a means to grab the exposed lip of the bearing cup. These hubs I worked on had no such means. As I stated, the hubs inner diameter was a smaller diameter than the actual bearing cup.

A blind bearing puller would have been great also, but with no ledge to grab, this would have required cutting away even more of the hubs material than just a few notches.

The fortunate thing though, these hubs are pretty soft cast steel, so the carbide cutter made easy work of it.

The original post here, if he needs to replace bearing cups, possibly he is fortunate as others are, or may be in deep doodoo if like the hubs I helped with.

[trikermutha]

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the bearing cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

Yes. I was lucky. Didn't have much to work with until it started to move.

I was hoping to find a aftermarket replacement but could not come up with one that the specs the 622 hub had.

[bobfeeney]

If you do not have a maintenance book for your RT622, the book shows that the wheel hubs & sealed bearing is a complete set. The bearings were not intended to be pressed out and replaced. I see someone has stated about the soft hub metal. It is - Can Am had no intension of allowing anyone to replace just the wheel bearings. Yes, these hubs are intended to be replaced just like your truck and/or car wheel bearings, they are built the same way.

[Jeriatric]

All this talk about hub quality begs the question.

Did we get what we paid for?

[PMK]

All this talk about hub quality begs the question.

Did we get what we paid for?

Absolutely. The RT622 is a great trailer that matches the style of the Spyder RT series.

Regarding these wheel hubs, they are no better, nor any worse than those on the Spyder itself at the price point they meet.

Actually, current automotive trends are leaning more and more to replacing complete assemblies. I am planning to accomplish wheel bearings in my Toyota Tacoma, and by design, everything is pressed together, and the bearing is a complete assembly consisting of inner and outer bearings.

[Jeriatric]

Absolutely. The RT622 is a great trailer that matches the style of the Spyder RT series.

Regarding these wheel hubs, they are no better, nor any worse than those on the Spyder itself at the price point they meet.

Actually, current automotive trends are leaning more and more to replacing complete assemblies. I am planning to accomplish wheel bearings in my Toyota Tacoma, and by design, everything is pressed together, and the bearing is a complete assembly consisting of inner and outer bearings.

Agree

[upsdoctor]

I started to pull one of the RT622 wheel hubs apart today. The cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing came out easy. It seems that the inner bearing is hanging on the axle so I cannot pull the hub. Do I need a wheel puller to get the hub off or just use a rubber mallet and smash it off?

[cptjam]

Bob, that’s the oil seal hanging up. Just tug. You gotta replace it anyway. Once the hub is off, use a Dremel tool On the race and cut in a groove. Use a hammer and chisel to remove. You can cut on each side, and remove that way. I used a drill to make a hole, and then put a punch in that, once. Again, worst case, beat it mercilessly, ruin it, and then pitch it! New ones are pretty cheap. Bearings and races and seals are available from bearing supply houses. 14848 CR seal and L44649 Timken bearing and races. Call if you need help.

[Fireball1800]

I used a dremel tool with small grinding wheel to cut notches in the hub on 4 sides just enough to gain the edge on the bearing races on both sides of the hub. Future bearing race changes won't be a problem. On mine the casting was over the edges to the point where some of the bearing had actually rubbed it some. I just had purchased this unit and was unsure of the condition. The first things i noticed were the bearing cover was not seated. To the point of almost falling off. The cap was packed full of grease like it was the bearing buddy (it was not). Next thing i noticed was after taking cotter pin out, was really too tight. Like it was torqued down. Took some effort to get the nut to move. Next I noticed, the outer bearing race and bearing had signs of heat damage. Very minor discoloration. Most likely from over tight bearing. Next the middle shaft area had very little grease. Next came the rear bearing and seal. Used a deep socket and hydraulic press to remove the bearing and seal. It too had evidence of heat temperament. It did not have very much grease on the bearing. Like it came from factory that way. Did the same dremel notch on two of the sides on this as the other was actually below the race rim and I could catch with drift punch. After removing the race, the race looked fine other than the heat spots. Cleaned up the unit, degreased it, inspected the rest, and then used dremel to grind away some of the overcasting at the bearing race stops. just enough to clear the race edge. This will make future bearing race changes easy. Also did not want any part of the hub to come in contact with bearing. Following the user manual it states to torque the nut to 150 in lbs and rotate the wheel while seating the bearings. Then back off the nut till it freely rotates by hand, then hand tighten it back down till it stops, then tighten till hole lines up with pin. It also states to not fill the cavity between the bearings more than 20% full of grease. I just happen to have a new hub assembly from BRP from previous owner, and inspecting that, the inner (rear) bearing has very little grease packed into that bearing.. which leads me to believe that the new hubs are not greased very well. So i'll have to pull this seal and repack anyway.. The trailer tires are also over 10 years old and showing some dry rot so i'll be replacing those with some high speed radials. I also see one tire has a plug in it already.. So it is good to really check these things annually.

[upsdoctor]

Thanks for the info. I spent some time in the garage earlier today and got the hubs off using a rubber mallet. One of the bearings is still on the axle, I was surprised that it separated from the hub so easily. A rubber seal (rear) came out of the other hub. The grease in both hubs looked like wet mud, tan in color. I didn't expect the grease to look like that. I am really glad I took the time to check the bearings. I have low mileage on the trailer and assumed they would be fine.

What type of grease should I use?

[trikermutha]

I used Synthetic bearing grease and installed bearing buddy. I have not taken them apart yet to see how well the bearing Buddy has worked out.

Take a close look at the trailer axles for rust more so the back side. If not cleaned up it will destroy a seal.

[cptjam]

Synthetic grease is fine. We also use bearing buddies