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  1. #26
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Got it. It’s ok. Clean, polish, clean, put back together! Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    The HUBS on the 2010 RT-622 trailer were found to be not up to par because they lacked enough grease when installed, for every other year the hubs and grease appear to be fine, (i have changed several different year models).

    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  3. #28
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Our trailer had yucky grease too. Low miles with dealer replaced hubs, just prior to us buying it.

    Pulled ours apart, all bearing cleaned and repacked. Installed Bearing Buddies and use Mobil 1 grease.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by upsdoctor View Post
    Joe, I sent you a picture via email. I had a bit of scoring on the axle when I removed the inner bearing.
    Sadly, it seems the rolling components are Chinese. The scoring should easily polish out and may have been there a while. When you seize a wheel bearing, they pretty much fuse to the shaft.

  5. #30
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    When they do, changing the swing arm is a big job. The body has to come off the frame. Grease those bearings!!!
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  6. #31
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    Look at post 15 on this thread.

    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...2+wheel+locked

    Lots other information too.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Finally got around to my yearly repack. Found a bad inner bearing and race. I use this to pull the races. I tighten the jaws so that the edge of the jaws bites into the race and hub edge and do a blow or two until the jaws spring inward. I then loosen them so as not to bit into the hub and pull away.
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  8. #33
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    I used a dremel tool with small grinding wheel to cut notches in the hub on 4 sides just enough to gain the edge on the bearing races on both sides of the hub. Future bearing race changes won't be a problem. On mine the casting was over the edges to the point where some of the bearing had actually rubbed it some. I just had purchased this unit and was unsure of the condition. The first things i noticed were the bearing cover was not seated. To the point of almost falling off. The cap was packed full of grease like it was the bearing buddy (it was not). Next thing i noticed was after taking cotter pin out, was really too tight. Like it was torqued down. Took some effort to get the nut to move. Next I noticed, the outer bearing race and bearing had signs of heat damage. Very minor discoloration. Most likely from over tight bearing. Next the middle shaft area had very little grease. Next came the rear bearing and seal. Used a deep socket and hydraulic press to remove the bearing and seal. It too had evidence of heat temperament. It did not have very much grease on the bearing. Like it came from factory that way. Did the same dremel notch on two of the sides on this as the other was actually below the race rim and I could catch with drift punch. After removing the race, the race looked fine other than the heat spots. Cleaned up the unit, degreased it, inspected the rest, and then used dremel to grind away some of the overcasting at the bearing race stops. just enough to clear the race edge. This will make future bearing race changes easy. Also did not want any part of the hub to come in contact with bearing. Following the user manual it states to torque the nut to 150 in lbs and rotate the wheel while seating the bearings. Then back off the nut till it freely rotates by hand, then hand tighten it back down till it stops, then tighten till hole lines up with pin. It also states to not fill the cavity between the bearings more than 20% full of grease. I just happen to have a new hub assembly from BRP from previous owner, and inspecting that, the inner (rear) bearing has very little grease packed into that bearing.. which leads me to believe that the new hubs are not greased very well. So i'll have to pull this seal and repack anyway.. The trailer tires are also over 10 years old and showing some dry rot so i'll be replacing those with some high speed radials. I also see one tire has a plug in it already.. So it is good to really check these things annually.

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