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  1. #26
    Active Member Joerolwing's Avatar
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    You can purchase a tool to rotate the brake piston from BajaRon. Some are able to use needle nose pliers but this didn’t work for me.

  2. #27
    Active Member bayoumanPIBE's Avatar
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    @PinkRosePetal -- Yeah, I agree and will leave the tire pressures as they are. I just wanted a 2nd thought.

    I'm sorry, I should have added the faster I go it seems if I barely turn left/right the wheels seem to grab hold and want to jump that direction more if I was to turn to fast.

    When on the interstate last night, going into a minor long curve I have to keep the wheel frozen towards the turn instead of going back and forth slightly like in my car. i have no slack so-to-say.

    What you say here makes a lot of sense "Spyders are twitchy until you get used to them and very sharp to respond to the slightest movement of the bars. A slack grip on the bars helps. I just have my fingers clipped over the grips when cruising and gently push and pull with the inside of my fingers, tighter corners need a big more effort."

    I love my spyder, and I'm just now meeting other owners now that I'm back to my life again. I'm learning more about these creatures. i'm finding out what is can be done and what can be done without damage.

    Such as I'd like to have a bit more slack similar to my old three wheelers ATV's Honda 185's back in the day because that "twitchy" touchy steering can get wild in cornering on an unavoidable piece of damaged road. I'd like to be able to maneuver easier to avoid such things if possible.

    i have some farkle wishes, but making sure I'm safe and comfortable is first.

    Side notes: A lot of this will come as I get more time on the road. It's cool ryders like you and others who have taken the time to respond where I take your advice respectively and put it to use. Such as another very helpful suggestion I received from ya'll was to NOT white knuckle, relax, pay attention and let the bike do its thing as much as it should. I getting more out of the house since life is letting up. I met some local folks on a Spyder Facebook group who ride the same day each week and they invited me to go with them. I've been on two so far and am loving my bike more and more. And they are a great bunch!

  3. #28
    Active Member bayoumanPIBE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joerolwing View Post
    You can purchase a tool to rotate the brake piston from BajaRon. Some are able to use needle nose pliers but this didn’t work for me.
    I'll keep that in mind as I learn to do things on my own.

    Hell, maybe I should get one and take to the dealer's service center...LOL!!

  4. #29
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    ... because that "twitchy" touchy steering can get wild in cornering on an unavoidable piece of damaged road...
    Yes, I agree. Personally I think the front tyres could kill you if you hit a series of ruts or raises on a poor surface. I've mentioned this before but I think most folk here drive on a relatively good surface and simply haven't experienced the possibility the tyres have to get you into trouble.

    Our bikes have two changes which remove a good deal of the wildness over poor surfaces, we have fitted rigid steering tie-bars and fitted car tyres. On the v-twin Spyders the tie-bars are particularly flexible, a little better on the 1330cc bikes.

    The original Kenda front tyres are bi-polar in nature, they're very stable and run straight on a good road surface but they steer by their edges and will pull the bike fiercely off line on longitudinal raised ridges. Some car tyres also have this characteristic so it's a bit 'suck it and see'.

    However, before you contemplate any changes be sure your front wheel alignment is correct. If there is excessive toe-out and you turn into a tightish curve the effect will be an initial turn in that's a little tighter than you expected so you steer out a touch then that removes too much of the turn so you again have to turn in. It kinda makes the curve a two stage thing. It's to do with a change in the wheel angle as the bike leans and it's exaggerated by the poor wheel alignment.

  5. #30
    Active Member bayoumanPIBE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkRosePetal View Post
    However, before you contemplate any changes be sure your front wheel alignment is correct. If there is excessive toe-out and you turn into a tightish curve the effect will be an initial turn in that's a little tighter than you expected so you steer out a touch then that removes too much of the turn so you again have to turn in. It kinda makes the curve a two stage thing. It's to do with a change in the wheel angle as the bike leans and it's exaggerated by the poor wheel alignment.
    I respect your suggestion and will definitely get the alignment checked first. I don't know what changes I want, but it will help to know if my current things are correct. Some updates might help the steering without needing to purchase new items.

    I did some more riding, and things are feeling a bit more comfortable in the steering. I still want to get things checked when I can.

    Thank you!
    Life's short...Play it by ear and ryde!

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