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Active Member
Access to back of left and right fuse blocks
Is it possible to access the back of the fuse blocks? I am looking for a connection to "switched power" and "shedding power". Thanks
I have a 2015 RTS-SE.
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods:
TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
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Active Member
Yes you can, that is how I got switched power. The fuse blocks unmount. I had my frunk off when I did this so have no idea if you can remove the fuse blocks with it on.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
I agree with Mike on this; all the wiring is short except for the light connections to the frunk. Had mine off just last week fixing a radiator grill strike by an Arkansas rabbit. He lost!
BTW, if you pull the frunk to get to the fuse blocks, be sure to reconnect all the wiring before you start the Spyder to check your work. If you don't and leave the wrong connection undone and start the Spyder, it will throw two codes about the ambient air pressure and temperature sensor. Once you make the errant connection the codes will disappear.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Active Member
I was afraid that the frunk had to come off to get to the back of the fuse blocks. Yes I know that Mike (Blueknight911) says that it is very easy. So I guess that I will tackle that job. By the way Mike how many times have you taken the frunk off? I am guessing more that just a few!!
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods:
TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
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Very Active Member
Like a number of things on a Spyder RT, the first time through can be a bit intimidating, but the second and subsequent times it's a lot easier. Here is what I believe in a very good video on removing the frunk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4.
In my experience, the two times I've removed the frunk the most time consuming step was reconnecting the air inlet tube to the air box when reassembling everything. The first time it was pretty easy but on the second time I had to diddle with it bit more to get the connection on as it is supposed to be. A little patience was all I needed.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JayBros
Like a number of things on a Spyder RT, the first time through can be a bit intimidating, but the second and subsequent times it's a lot easier. Here is what I believe in a very good video on removing the frunk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw5atKHlmp4.
In my experience, the two times I've removed the frunk the most time consuming step was reconnecting the air inlet tube to the air box when reassembling everything. The first time it was pretty easy but on the second time I had to diddle with it bit more to get the connection on as it is supposed to be. A little patience was all I needed.
The AIR inlet thing is probably why the dealers charge so much if they have to remove it ………….. You really Don't have to have it completely connected for it to work as designed …. If you look at my Albums there is a pic of my 3 inch air intake pipe …. I have not had any water issues either …. good luck … Mike
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Very Active Member
The upper terminal of the F8 (unused) position in the RFB is hot through the load shedding relay only when the engine is running. I used a "add-a-circuit" in that position to power my dashcam setup.
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Active Member
Thanks to all for the info
After watching the two videos I believe that I will have to drop the skid plate in order to get to the bottom two bolts. Dang
Speaking of the skid plate, it looks like I need to update all the mods in my signature.
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods:
TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by seaweed
After watching the two videos I believe that I will have to drop the skid plate in order to get to the bottom two bolts. Dang
Speaking of the skid plate, it looks like I need to update all the mods in my signature.
I re-moved and not re-placed my OEM skid plate quite awhile ago …. but I think the TWO 10mm bolts ( not the nuts ) come off and the skid plate stays on ….. Mike
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Very Active Member
As I remember putting mu frunk back on, even with a bump skid you can get to the two lower 10 mm headed bolts. The whole job is a good bit easier if you get the front wheels up on ramps or jack stands.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
I just posted about the fuse block access. I hadn't read about it before.
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
Dynojet Power Commander V, Power Commander POD-300 Display, PCV Map Switch, Pedal Commander (WOW)
Passenger Arm Rests, Windshield Air Wing
Baja Ron's Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters
Air Scoops, LaMonster's Hiway Pegs
Magnetic Mirror Mounts, Air Innovations Seat Cushion
Red Chrome pin striping on Black hood
Federal Formoza AZ01 front tires (they're GREAT)
Kumho Ecsta AST KU25 All-Season Tire - 225/50R15 91H
LED bars above radiator inlets
LED brake/running/turn signals on license plate frame
Tag-Along trailer
LED headlights LED fog lights (WOW)
2" x 2" Road Lights inside front fenders
7' x 10' Cargo trailer
Garmin 396 LM GPS
RLS Cat-delete resonator with China Akropovic muffler
New Banshee AGM
M3 TPMS on front tires
Remote Control for Heated Jacket and Heated Riding Pants
Analog Clock and Analog Volt Meter
Loose Nut Behind Handlebars
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