Limp Mode, 2016 spyder rts se6

[mmmdowning]

Over the weekend I added the Slingmods LED headlights and fog lights. The bike started fine, moved it to the driveway and parked it. This morning when starting it, it ran ruff. The idle was at 700 and when I backed out of the drive and then going up to about 55mph the screen went orange and went to limp mode. So turned around and went back to the house and parked it. Could the current change on the LED's have caused this? When I get home this evening I'll check more into it, but just confused.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have added Dozens of LED's to my 14 RT ( including headlights ) ….. this hasn't caused Any issues …… your issue is something else …. more info needed …. Mike

[Chupaca]

You need to get the codes or warning signals to get a better Idea of what is going on. LED's can cause problems if not properly install or not compatible to the system. One quick check would be to back track and see if the problem goes away. ...

[SpyderAnn01]

I agree with Mike, pretty unlikely that the lights themselves caused the problem but you may have done something installing them that is upsetting the nanny.

If you are still getting errors tonight you need to pull codes. With the key on push the Mode, Set and Turn Signal buttons all at the same time. If you have an active code it will be on the screen.

Did you remove the front trunk when you installed the fog lights? If you did I bet you didn’t reconnect something properly.

[JayBros]

SlingMods is Tricled's biggest distributor. I installed Tricled LED headlights and fog lights Friday and bike runs like its usual top self. Since the lights are plug and play I agree with Mike and Ann it would be extremely unusual for the lights to cause the bike to go into limp mode. Are you certain you got the polarity correct on all four lights? It would be obvious is you didn't because a light with reversed polarity will not light. Did you pull the frunk to get that left fog light installed? If so, are you certain you got all the electrical connections reconnected when you reattached the frunk? If you missed one it might be the one that completes the circuit to the ambient air temperature and pressure sensor. As Ann said, you should pull any codes you can. If you get a P222B and/or P011C the system they are related to the ambient air temperature and pressure sensor. BTDT, got the T-shirt.

[Baron14y]

SlingMods is Tricled's biggest distributor. I installed Tricled LED headlights and fog lights Friday and bike runs like its usual top self. Since the lights are plug and play I agree with Mike and Ann it would be extremely unusual for the lights to cause the bike to go into limp mode. Are you certain you got the polarity correct on all four lights? It would be obvious is you didn't because a light with reversed polarity will not light. Did you pull the frunk to get that left fog light installed? If so, are you certain you got all the electrical connections reconnected when you reattached the frunk? If you missed one it might be the one that completes the circuit to the ambient air temperature and pressure sensor. As Ann said, you should pull any codes you can. If you get a P222B and/or P011C the system they are related to the ambient air temperature and pressure sensor. BTDT, got the T-shirt.

Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.

Cognac 2014 RT-S

But it takes an Army Aviation spotter plane to call it in.

US Army Aviation 1959-1962

[mmmdowning]

I was able to pull codes, they are:
P1171
P0130
P0171

[JayBros]

Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.

Cognac 2014 RT-S

But it takes an Army Aviation spotter plane to call it in.

US Army Aviation 1959-1962

Not the Devil Dogs, we have our own aircraft and aerial observers!

[JayBros]

I was able to pull codes, they are:
P1171
P0130
P0171

Doesn't sound at all related to the lights.

P1171 = ECM = Fuel correction reached the maximum limit, additive = Any reason which will cause a lean condition at idle, ex: fuel pressure too low, clogged fuel injector, defective fuel injector (sticking), large quantity of ethanol fuel mixed in the tank.

P0130 = ECM = HO2S signal not plausible = Defective O2 sensor, damaged circuit wires,damaged connector...Canister purge circuit defective, canister purge valve installed in wrong flow direction, Fuel pressure too high or too low.

P0171 = ECM = Fuel correction reached the maximum limit, multiplicative = same causes as for P1171.

Sounds like a job for a technician with B.U.D.S.

[BearBait]

I was able to pull codes, they are:
P1171
P0130
P0171

These codes deal with the O2 sensor (P0130) and a lean fuel condition, according to the F3 Service Manual. They could be the same for the RT, I would think.

[mmmdowning]

Thank you, to the shop it goes again. So in a month and a half i've had the guage cluster go bad and the oil cooling tank/radiator go bad. Replaced by best warranty, thankfully? I've put just over 14000 miles in a 1.5 yrs. Bought new old stock. I hope the down time becomes less. I truely enjoy riding the spyder. But with a possible 3rd in the short time I may go back to Honda goldwing. I drive daily 147 miles on interstate 95 and ride the hot lanes. Trying to save miles being put on my Tundra.

[Peter Aawen]

If you pulled the frunk off when you were installing the lights, or even if you were only just poking & playing around under there in amongst all the other bits of hose & wire under the tupperware, I reckon there's a good chance that you've simply disturbed or disconnected something to do with the ECM or the O2 sensor. And if that's the case, why not have a sticky under the tupperware & see if you can connect whatever back up or re-seat the plug, unkink the hose?! You'll feel a bit silly if you take it back in to the dealer where it sits for a couple of weeks before they get a chance to look at it & then the tech fixes it in 10 seconds by simply re-connecting the O2 sensor or some other hose or wire, won't you??

So I'd be having a go myself - have a look in the area where you were doing things - check the ECM connections & the O2 sensor to make sure they've got a good connection, look for anything unplugged & re-plug it if necessary, check to see if there's any pinched hoses or broken wires - it really only looks complex cos of all the wires & bits going everywhere, but you don't necessarily need to know EVERYTHING about it all just to look for a kinked hose or an unplugged wiring connector, do you?!? Go on, have a go! If you fitted the lights, then surely you can do this!

[canamjhb]

I agree with Peter. A sudden and unexpected problem after working on a vehicle is almost always a result of "What was the last think I did". Walk yourself backward and look at everything you touched. And look at everything you may have unintentionally come in contact with. I bet that it is something you inadvertently disturbed rather than the lights. Good luck..... Jim

[mmmdowning]

I double checked the connections, wiring, vacuum lines. All looks good. I didn't remove the frunk to change the fog lights. S we will see what the shop says is wrong and another two weeks down the drain. After this I feel I'm going to a Honda Gold Wing '18 or '19.

[JayBros]

Did you lift the Spyder at all during your work? Have you checked the oxygen sensor and its connector wire?

[mmmdowning]

The dealer called and said the #1 plug fouled and the fix is replacing all 3 plugs at 14,800 miles for $430. I asked if something failed to cause the fouling and he asked me if I drive high speeds. Really?? My frustration is high now. I'm calling it quits on the Spyder. Going to a new Goldwing. I have truly enjoyed the things I have learned here and the great folks. I should be able to bring the bike home today and trading in tomorrow.

[SuperG]

The dealer called and said the #1 plug fouled and the fix is replacing all 3 plugs at 14,800 miles for $430. I asked if something failed to cause the fouling and he asked me if I drive high speeds. Really?? My frustration is high now. I'm calling it quits on the Spyder. Going to a new Goldwing. I have truly enjoyed the things I have learned here and the great folks. I should be able to bring the bike home today and trading in tomorrow.

Since it's only one plug out of the three, it was the plug itself that went bad, not the bike. Those fault codes simply saved you from burning out your catalytic converter.

[mmmdowning]

They added that the injector failed, so they have ordered and another week before I can do anything.