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  1. #26
    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.W. View Post
    Sorry for my ignorance.... but who is Bob and where can I watch this video?

    Thank you,
    P.W.
    https://youtu.be/MWtbQPdKd8w

    Mr Finless Bob has helped many a folk with tire removal, me included.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard*Magnetic Mirrors*Custom Rear Adjustable Shock*360° LED Headlights & Foglights*Progressive front fender turn signals
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  2. #27
    Active Member P.W.'s Avatar
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    Thanks for the info!

  3. #28
    Active Member Chasinsparks's Avatar
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    Here is the link to the VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWtbQPdKd8w
    To be continued....

  4. #29
    Active Member Chasinsparks's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    I did the wheel removal and tire install today. Following every ones advice, the job it's self was pretty straight forward. Took longer to get the tire mounted on the rim than doing the work.

    What did I learn:

    Removing the sensor in the swing arm was the worst part.

    I tried to remove the belt with out taking the shock bolt out. I was not able to do it that way, once I removed the bolt from the shock there was no problem.

    Bearings and seals looked good.

    The manual shows removing the hub, my wheel has a solid hub nothing to remove ( I guess that is what you call it) the brake disc mounts right to it I removed the brake disc on one side and the drive pulley on the other.

    Mr. Tire had no problem mounting but said he never seen a rim like that and could not balance it, did not charge for the mounting.

    I reinstalled wheel and torqued to specs too it for an extended test ride, would never no it was not balance super smooth.

    Tire is a 205 60 15 Quad Trac 5


    Thank you all that chimed in and gave e your input and advice.Tire.jpg
    Last edited by Chasinsparks; 07-28-2019 at 09:41 PM. Reason: Added image
    To be continued....

  5. #30
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasinsparks View Post
    UPDATE:

    I did the wheel removal and tire install today. Following every ones advice, the job it's self was pretty straight forward. Took longer to get the tire mounted on the rim than doing the work.

    What did I learn:

    Removing the sensor in the swing arm was the worst part.

    I tried to remove the belt with out taking the shock bolt out. I was not able to do it that way, once I removed the bolt from the shock there was no problem.

    Bearings and seals looked good.

    The manual shows removing the hub, my wheel has a solid hub nothing to remove ( I guess that is what you call it) the brake disc mounts right to it I removed the brake disc on one side and the drive pulley on the other.

    Mr. Tire had no problem mounting but said he never seen a rim like that and could not balance it, did not charge for the mounting.

    I reinstalled wheel and torqued to specs too it for an extended test ride, would never no it was not balance super smooth.

    Tire is a 205 60 15 Quad Trac 5


    Thank you all that chimed in and gave e your input and advice.Tire.jpg
    Just FYI, there is no need to remove the brake rotor (or the hub on the older wheels) to mount a new tire. Most tire shops do not have equipment to balances these, they require a motorcycle tire balance machine because of the small bore.

    20190118_152348.jpg

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  6. #31
    Active Member Chasinsparks's Avatar
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    Even though I did not get it balanced, you would never know it is actually better than some balanced tires on my Audi Q7. I decided to remove the brake rotor did not want to take a chance of the tire shop messing it up, only 5 bolts to remove. I could not find a bike shop that would balance it with a car tire mounted. Anyway all is good and I do appreciate everyone that offer tips, tricks, and advice.
    To be continued....

  7. #32
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasinsparks View Post
    Even though I did not get it balanced, you would never know it is actually better than some balanced tires on my Audi Q7. I decided to remove the brake rotor did not want to take a chance of the tire shop messing it up, only 5 bolts to remove. I could not find a bike shop that would balance it with a car tire mounted. Anyway all is good and I do appreciate everyone that offer tips, tricks, and advice.
    For my past 5 rear tire changes I haven't balanced any rear wheel/tire and have had No issues either …. Mike

  8. #33
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasinsparks View Post
    Even though I did not get it balanced, you would never know it is actually better than some balanced tires on my Audi Q7. I decided to remove the brake rotor did not want to take a chance of the tire shop messing it up, only 5 bolts to remove. I could not find a bike shop that would balance it with a car tire mounted. Anyway all is good and I do appreciate everyone that offer tips, tricks, and advice.
    My tire shop put some commercial quality liquid balance (NOT Slime or Ride-On!) in my tire since they couldn't spin balance it. It's the same stuff they use in truck tires. Works good.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  9. #34
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    Just as a matter of curiosity.....

    I removed my rear tire to upgrade the rear shock to M2 and the tire itself to a General. What a pain in the azz.

    I too removed my rear disc in the vain hope my local tire shop could balance the rear with the new tire. They mounted it but had to go to dealer for balance. Anyway...the shop manual sez to trash the disc bolts and replace with new. Did you? I did not, just cleaned and re-locktited.

    just wondering

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by canamjhb View Post
    You have all the tools you need...... Except two. First is patience. Go slow. The second is bandaids. To successfully complete any job requiring tools you must bleed at least once..... Jim
    Not if you wear gloves
    2017 F3-S Daytona , Yellow and black

  11. #36
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    PinkRosePetal,
    Lemme get this straight. You have machined the spacers to what dimensions? Do I assume correctly that only the OD of the flange and the OD of the barrel were reduced?
    The 55 X 35 X 9 is the off-the-shelf seal and not the BRP seal? Got a number for that OTS seal?
    Does this apply to 2017 F3Ls such as mine?
    Is there a number (not BRP's) on the OEM seal? I have a huge bearing supply house near me, maybe they'd have one that will work.
    Last edited by RICZ; 12-08-2021 at 02:29 PM.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  12. #37
    Active Member spyder01's Avatar
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    I just changed my rear tire last week, 3rd tire on the bike but first time using a car tire on the back. I changed out my bearings and seals bc I had read here that they were failing at low mileage, but then I found out that it was old info and not true. My bearings were fine as well as the seals and no corrosion anywhere and I live in a beach town on the east coast and ride in the rain a lot. I'm not sure what kind of conditions these bikes in question are riding in, maybe they brine the roads in the UK and these folks are riding on a wet salty road. But even so the one bike only had 350 miles on it. I do remember one time I drove my Goldwing to Florida in the winter and I95 was salted in a few areas. When I got home 2 weeks later I found the rear wheel was heavily corroded. Ever since then I wash my bike a couple times during my trips.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 12-08-2021 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Sp ;-)
    :
    : 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE

  13. #38
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder01 View Post
    I just changed my rear tire last week, 3rd tire on the bike but first time using a car tire on the back. I changed out my bearings and seals bc I had read here that they were failing at low mileage, but then I found out that it was old info and not true. My bearings were fine as well as the seals and no corrosion anywhere and I live in a beach town on the east coast and ride in the rain a lot. I'm not sure what kind of conditions these bikes in question are riding in, maybe they brine the roads in the UK and these folks are riding on a wet salty road. But even so the one bike only had 350 miles on it. I do remember one time I drove my Goldwing to Florida in the winter and I95 was salted in a few areas. When I got home 2 weeks later I found the rear wheel was heavily corroded. Ever since then I wash my bike a couple times during my trips.
    also similar Not bad thread & maybe not as specific as some may like to be. New bearings not a bad thing & at 3rd tire bout par should inspect at every change by default maybe keep a set handy (with current supply delays). Keep good maintenance & miles logs just peace of mind if nothing else

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