The front shocks, bottom bolt is very easy, top bolt can be accessed with the frunk insert removed. Long extension, universal, and a 15mm short socket. Removing/installing the top bolt requires small hands.
Rear shock the bottom bolt is easy, the top bolt 100_2710.jpgrequires 2) 15mm sockets, 2 extensions and 2 ratchets, using one set from either side.
After rear shock was removed, then removed the automatic air ride assembly.
Results, the handling has been improved dramatically.
Suspension is tight and it corners on rails.
Lucky to have Sandia Peak near by to check out the cornering for about 25 miles!!
Great post with just enough photos and instructions to make anyone who knows which end of a screwdriver is the handle feel capable to do it too. Thanks.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
The cost for the shocks was $2115, from Lamonster, shipped Fed Ex
The labor I did myself, and took me most of the day, cleaning parts along the way. 2nd time would be a snap, as tools would be known, so less time the more you do.
The rewards in handling were worth it for me.
Rod
Changes in ride height alter the front end wheel alignment. Raising the front, which can happen with aftermarket shocks, adds toe in. Firmer springs and increased toe in give the perception of better handling. Likely would be a good next step to have it aligned, then ride the wheels off it.
Hi PMK,
The ride height appears to be about 1/4" higher, or about 6mm.
Any change in ride height will require a alignment to be perfect.
JS3535,
I went with the Stage 4 because I wanted the low speed compression dampening and the rebound damping.
I ride 2 up most of the time, and the low speed compression damping allows me to firm it up for the twisties, while allow a smoother rides on the straight roads.
Took it out 2 up today, and before I reached the first stop sign, wife said that the suspension made a big change to her, as it did not feel like it was trying to throw her off the side.
We have been riding for about 45 years together, several motorcycles, and is taking awhile to get use to the way the Spyder corners, flat vs leaning.
Good upgrade. I love my Elka shocks too. Mine are the stage-2 and they are a great improvement over the OEM. When installing mine I double and tripple checked for correct installation. The stage-2 should be installed with the spring down. As opposed to the OEMs which come with the springs on top. I don't know anything about the stage-4s but hoping you don't have them on upside down. That would be a bummer. Ride safe..... Jim
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
Thanks Jim,
Elka provided some very good instruction, and they appear to be vehicle specific, along with pictures.
It appears that they must mount different directions on different machines, RTL to F3 LTD.
Anyway they do make a remarkable difference!!
Rod
I believe that the stage 2 fronts with the IFP can be mounted either way & all other stages must be mounted a certain way. I ordered stage 2 front & rear today. Elka & Lamonster say that stage 2 is plenty for the front for most people, granted I’m not most people. My final decision was made because I did not want the canister mounted on the frame anywhere & I wanted to have all the same stage all the way around & I figured anything is better than what I have now. People who have purchased the M2 shocks say they are great and none of theirs have the canister so another reason I guess.
JS3535,
You will be very happy with them.
Seems that almost everyone has had a positive experience with the up rated shocks, no matter the brand!!
The hard part will be the wait for them now,
Rod
Changes in ride height alter the front end wheel alignment. Raising the front, which can happen with aftermarket shocks, adds toe in. Firmer springs and increased toe in give the perception of better handling. Likely would be a good next step to have it aligned, then ride the wheels off it.
It did indeed increase my toe in when it was raised the 6mm.
I cannot wait to get it aligned!!
Thanks!!
It did indeed increase my toe in when it was raised the 6mm.
I cannot wait to get it aligned!!
Thanks!!
If you bought shocks from Lamont, ask him what specs to use for aligning with ROLO tools. A good alignment tech will align for a given rider weight range. The firmer springs could make a difference.
Myself, I do not use ROLO laser setup, but rather align to specs with the rider seated on the machine.
Reducing toe in will relax some of that on rails feeling, but done correctly will be better than stock shocks due to the firmer springs reducing bump steer.
It did indeed increase my toe in when it was raised the 6mm.
I cannot wait to get it aligned!!
Thanks!!
Wanted to add. The Fox install on ours raised the front ride height I believe it was 10mm. The change in wheel alignment was drastic increase in toe in. Believe it was out of spec by a factor of 3. Once I realigned it, the bike rolls super free.
Put Elka Stage 2 front and back on my "19 F3 Limited with 20 miles on the bike, at 1000 mile we were in Deadwood at the Three Wheeler Rally, I had Joe and Ann from Squared Away do an alignment, the bike was 1/32" off and Joe recommended not change it.
Elka Stage 4 Installed on F3 LTD
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Originally Posted by PMK
